pattonme Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 did you considerably re-spread the pads when re-installing the calipers? I imagine it's harder to do on radial calipers but on bikes with axial you had to make sure the pads were well out of the way, the caliper bolted tight, and only THEN close the pads. It was a common problem on eg. the SV650 and those with flexible, sliding-pin calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted December 19, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 19, 2017 Okay maybe it's not three to four thousand miles maybe it's six to seven thousand miles but it hasn't happened in a while. Bleeding the left caliper is frustrating. I also put yellow Teflon tape on my bleeding nipples and follow all the normal procedures that I've been doing for the last 40 years or at least since disc brakes came out. By the way I use a vacuum bleeder. I still don't like the feel of the OEM master cylinder. But if someone saying that the R1 Master is very stiff toothat's not what I want I've considered going with a Brembo RCS 18-20 variable throw master Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 19, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 19, 2017 Bleeding the left caliper is frustrating. I also put yellow Teflon tape on my bleeding nipples and follow all the normal procedures that I've been doing for the last 40 years or at least since disc brakes came out. By the way I use a vacuum bleeder. I am going to remove the calipers one at a time and try all of the posted suggestions. Do you notice any difference when using the teflon tape on the threads? and I assume that the yellow tape is a specific type? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 I think there were several sizes of R1 MC over the years but I don't know which one is which or if they're all 3/4" (19). 5/8" (17 or 18) would be better I think. http://www.shindypro.com/brake_mckits.html I have Accossato and Brembo setups as well. http://www.accossato.com/en/motorcycles-accessories/radial-master-cylinder.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 The bleed screw presses tight against a conical valve seat in the caliper.... that's what seals the system. If you need to tape the thread, something else has gone bad. yes and no. the teflon tape is to minimize back-flow of air down and past the threads into the gap between the valve seat and the bleed screw end. Some of these are poorly made so a (relative) lot of air gets by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 19, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 19, 2017 The bleed screw presses tight against a conical valve seat in the caliper.... that's what seals the system. If you need to tape the thread, something else has gone bad.yes and no. the teflon tape is to minimize back-flow of air down and past the threads into the gap between the valve seat and the bleed screw end. Some of these are poorly made so a (relative) lot of air gets by.So I wouldn't be doing any harm by adding a single layer of teflon tape to try and eliminate the possibility of any air leakage? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 it's a mod useful during bleed, not after the valve is closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted December 19, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 19, 2017 The yellow Teflon tape is for natural gas and is more resistant to dissolving in hydraulic fluid than the white Teflon tape which is for water. I carefully wrap the Teflon tape counterclockwise on to the threads but not down to the seating area of the tapered point of the bleed screw. The Teflon tape is to seal the threads only during bleeding not when it's seated closed; you don't want it in the seat area. I'll have to investigate R1& R6 MC sizes and costs new and used A Brembo RCS 18-20 is over $270 + brake switch I belive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 19, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 19, 2017 The yellow Teflon tape is for natural gas and is more resistant to dissolving in hydraulic fluid than the white Teflon tape which is for water. I'll have to investigate R1& R6 MC sizes and costs new and used A Brembo RCS 18-20 is over $270 + brake switch I belive. Im not 100% sure of bore size of my R1 MC but I believe it is 16mm and brand new are about $140. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 It would seem the 09-14 R1 (OEM Brembo 14B-W2587-00-00) are the ones to get but I can't seem to find dimensions. The same vintage Honda CBR1000RR appears to have a 17.5 piston. This 2CR-2580A-00-00 is from a 15+ R1 and is from Nissin. Personally I like brake feel that are a little long of throw and 'squishy' as opposed to rapid-action and instantly hard as rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted December 20, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 20, 2017 It would seem the 09-14 R1 (OEM Brembo 14B-W2587-00-00) are the ones to get but I can't seem to find dimensions. The same vintage Honda CBR1000RR appears to have a 17.5 piston. This 2CR-2580A-00-00 is from a 15+ R1 and is from Nissin. Personally I like brake feel that are a little long of throw and 'squishy' as opposed to rapid-action and instantly hard as rock. +1 on a bit more lever travel nut not on "squishy". Consistent throughout the lever travel albeit longer than OEM currently (both front and rear) without sudden ramping up of braking force is preferred, although I do like good initial "bite" that is easy to modulate. oops, Matt, I'll be contacting you hopefully soon regarding the quote you provided me earlier this year now that I've finally mothballed the FJ09 for the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 bleeding through the ABS is a dirty nasty bird of a job. I spent quite some time on it. But that and metal braided lines made it feel like I had gone from insufficient braking to doing stoppies if it didnt have abs. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted December 20, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 20, 2017 Lines are on my winter TBC list along Matt's suspensin bits + whatever can be done with the stock shock if an old Kawi 6xrr shock cannot be had. Must also do a fair bit of addotional maintenence as I've racked up about 23,000 miles in the year since I bought it new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 20, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 20, 2017 bleeding through the ABS is a dirty nasty bird of a job. I spent quite some time on it. But that and metal braided lines made it feel like I had gone from insufficient braking to doing stoppies if it didnt have abs.Did you bleed at the ABS unit itself? Is there a special procedure for this? i have an R1 MC so in addition to bleeding each caliper I can bleed at the MC istself, but bleeding through ABS is new to me. If I can get stoppie level braking, I will be very happy! ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 21, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 21, 2017 So, I had the day off and decided to tackle this brake issue. I first raised the front end and spun the tire to check for any dragging, the wheel spins freely. I removed the calipers one side at a time, removed the pads and extended the pistons. All pistons move freely in and out of the caliper, however, when I started to clean the pads I saw this - I have never seen a wear pattern like this in all my years wrenching on bikes. Even though I only posted photos of one set of pads in different angles, when I checked the other side the wear pattern was identical. How would this happen to all 4 pads? does this look like faulty pads? Any ideas? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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