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Valve adjustment info

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I've been doing some research on performing a valve adjustment on the FJ-09.  I've done many, many valve adjustments over the years  on the set screw and nut system.  Even checked the clearance on one of my FJR's a few years back.  (All clearances were within spec. Whew).
Never actually removed cams to change shims.  I find the Factory Service manual is not all that user friendly to the layman and I don't want to screw up the valve timing while re-installing the cams or the cam chain tensioner.   Does anyone have a copy of the Haynes service manual?  Is it any more user friendly than the factory version.   
Some of my older bike manuals had a cam chain tooth count and some detailed information for installing the camshafts.  (Kawasaki Concours 1000cc bikes.)    
Years ago I changed timing belts on a few Honda Accords and rebuilt their engines.  (Reconditioned cylinder head, new rod bearings, new rings etc.)  I have some reasonable hands experience but I would like a little more comprehensive information before moving forward.  
Any link to a diy video or other information would be great.
Also I have seen reference to shim kits (Hot cam, and ProX )   Is there a recommended shim kit that comes in small enough increments for proper valve adjustment.
Bill Hamilton
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I haven't looked at the FJ 09 Factory Service Manual, but I did prefer it the factory manual over Haynes for my FZ1 and ZX9. As for shim kits, I bought individual shims from my local dealer. I think he had a K&S brand kit or Hot Cams. Most of the bike I checked were in spec, but my ZX9 had many out of spec on the first valve check. Most of the shims I bought were the same size.
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  • 1 year later...
1 hour ago, codeman said:

does anyone know what shim kits work? as far as hot cam? or k&s? I would like to purchase one before I start


I used the hot cam kit but I purchased it before I read all the posts here of people saying they are junk. I did measure them against the factory shims that were the same size and they were identical.  I just plan to check the clearances at much shorter intervals going forward and if I have an issue then I'll replace them with something else. 

I had a little trouble getting the cams back in time the first time but it went pretty smoothly the second time. 

The factory service manual is all I used.

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9 minutes ago, codeman said:

Do you have any tips or tricks or links related to finding the top dead center on 2 and 3 cylinders?

Or finding the 240 degrees and then 480 maybe is a better way of phrasing it

Probably not the recommended way but what I did was rotate the engine while watching the cyl 2 cam lobes, when they started to face away from each other I stuck a small long bolt into the spark plug hole and slowly rotated until the Piston stopped coming up. There is a slight dead spot just before it starts going down again at TDC. Then repeated for #3.

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Codeman - Both Niksta43 and Clint offer good advice. Don't get too overwhelmed with the service manual instructions to rotate a certain number of degrees before measuring cyl 2, etc.  Make sure you are TDC compression (piston up, after intake valve opens&closes) and check your clearances. 

Use the book for camshaft removal and install. If you find the process confusing, plan on measuring and then bringing it to a shop. 

This engine isn't like the FJR in many ways, but to summarize - the timing procedure is tricky, and it's VERY easy to jump a tooth. The CP3 crankshaft timing is a bit goofy when compared to the IL-4 of the FJR and FJR's typically don't go out of adjustment as easily as this engine.

Either shim kit is fine, don't worry about it. (They're just shims, it's not like we're talking about Oil type here... LOLz)


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