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ABS Brake Pump Module Running all the time


DavidS

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Looking for some service help here, haven't seen or hear of this one yet.
 
Bike has been parked in the garage since November, battery on the tender. I went to get it ready for the spring, and when I turned the key and nothing happened. I took the battery in to have it checked, and it was completely dead. I bought a new battery, installed it, and as soon as I hooked it up, the ABS Brake Pump Module, (right in front of the battery) started running continuously.  Hmmm, could this be the cause of the dead battery? Even when the ABS module is running, I get no power to the rest of the bike. 
 
Anyone heard of this before? or have any advice?
 
 
Picture below, Part that says ADVICS is the ABS Brake Pump Module and is what is humming when I turn the power on:
 
ABS_Module.jpg
 
 
 
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what year is your bike?
If your bike is pre-2017 you can run a code scan via the dashboard...
 
it is possible an old code from having such a low voltage from the old battery may be stored in the memory... clearing it may clear the problem or not...
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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what year is your bike? If your bike is pre-2017 you can run a code scan via the dashboard...
 
it is possible an old code from having such a low voltage from the old battery may be stored in the memory... clearing it may clear the problem or not...
Norcal - thanks, it's a 2015, how would I clear the code? do I need specific equipment? and even with the ABS module running when battery connected, I still don't get lights on the dash when I turn the bike to the on position. 
I think I need a reset button! :)
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@pcwizz - I may be asking a really basic question here, but are you sure the new battery is installed correctly? It actually lays on its side in the FJ, so if you install it in what would seem like ‘conventional’ upright fashion, the terminals end up reversed. It’s been reported by a few members here on the forum, and the result is some sort of humming/buzzing under the fuel tank before a main fuse blows.
 
It sounds close to what you’ve described, so it’s worth confirming... good luck!
 
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....the terminal shown looks to be marked (-). I recall this side of the battery is supposed to say (+). 
Good catch!

Yep, the positive terminal should face towards the front of the bike.  I'll do a quick search, but there's definitely a prior thread about this very issue, and as I recall the symptoms were verbatim what's been described in this topic. 
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You need to hold those 2 buttons down WHILE TURNING the key on. Continue to hold while the instrument cluster “boots up”.
 
Keep watching the RH square of the instrument cluster. After 6-8 seconds it will change to say: ECU. Release the TCS and Reset buttons briefly and then press them at the same time again, holding for 1-2 seconds. The RH Square side of the display will say: DIAG. Release the 2 buttons briefly and press and hold them for a third time, display will change
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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Pcwizz - any updates? I’m curious about the answers to some of these other questions.
 
Skip
Sorry, work got in the way of my bike...... 
I'm trouble shooting now, starting with the battery orientation. I did indeed have it installed straight up, so I'm going to lay it on it's side and see if that helps.
 
Many thanks to all the suggestions and help, hopefully I will figure this out today
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Pcwizz - any updates? I’m curious about the answers to some of these other questions.
 
Skip
Sorry, work got in the way of my bike...... 
I'm trouble shooting now, starting with the battery orientation. I did indeed have it installed straight up, so I'm going to lay it on it's side and see if that helps.
 
Many thanks to all the suggestions and help, hopefully I will figure this out today
 
It’s more important that the positive (RED) cable be hooked up first to the + side of the battery, followed by negative (BLACK) to the - neg side.
 
Lying down or upright won’t make a bit of difference. Cable connection will.
 
HTH,
Skip
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Ok, got the battery in, but I have no juice to the bike. I checked the fuses under the seat and they all look good. Are there other fuses that could cause this?
 
Any ideas are appreciated. I've never had this many problems replacing a battery before in my whole life.......
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Ok, got the battery in, but I have no juice to the bike. I checked the fuses under the seat and they all look good. Are there other fuses that could cause this? 
Any ideas are appreciated. I've never had this many problems replacing a battery before in my whole life.......
 
 
Check this thread: https://fj-09.org/thread/6010/battery
 
It looks like you may have a couple of blown fuses to track down, and will then be back in business.
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Does the noise stop when you pull the ABS fuses? With the noise out of the way, when you turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON, do you hear any clicking sound at all from anywhere on the bike? 
You mentioned you checked the fuses under the seat... assume ALL fuses, including the 50A? Do you have a voltmeter handy? Does the ignition switch feel normal, i.e. nothing sticking etc.?

I don't hear any noise when I turn on the ignition switch. I also don't have a voltmeter. I checked the 50A fuse (missed that one), and it was also blown. I'm going to see if I can get another one locally at an auto parts store, otherwise, I'll need to get into town to buy another 50A fuse. 
Hoping this is the last of the issues......
 
 
 
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@pcwizz - The summary from the first thread was as follows... hopefully this gets you taken care of:
 
“I found the problem. Two fuses were burnt. The main(50A) and one fuse called ETV(7.5A) from the fuse box close to the main fuse.
After replacement she is spinning again.”
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