megroovy Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 This is what happened and what I've done. 2015 Tracer 900, oil cooler failed so I replaced it, spent a month in the garage unused and not started. Went to start it, wouldn't fire but did turn over, battery was down to 11.4v so I charged it from the wall and tried again, still nothing. Bought a new battery, same again. Removed the fuel pump to check that was clean, can hear it priming on start up ok. Replaced the spark plugs under the suspicion they were wet. Stuck an air compressor down each bore for a minute to dry the bores out first (a mechanic mate suggested this). Grounded the plugs on the outside of the engine casing to confirm they're sparking. Have taken the fuel pipe off the injector housing to confirm the pump is pushing fuel through. Tried new fuel as well. The bike's being picked up by a mechanic in 3 days. Anyone got any more ideas? As an aside, the butterflies don't open at all on cranking and only a tiny amount when the throttle is pulled all the way, does anyone know if this is normal? I'm guessing the fly-by-wire only allows them to open properly once the engine's actually started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 did the battery get put in wrong? that will blow the main 50amp fuse and the ETV fuse thats 7.5amps or so... the ETV fuse is for throttle... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 did the battery get put in wrong? that will blow the main 50amp fuse and the ETV fuse thats 7.5amps or so... the ETV fuse is for throttle... Great suggestion from Norcal. Check that first. Second, get yourself into DIAG mode, and choose d01 (IIRC) which also monitors the TPS position. Make sure the stop/run (RH) Switch is On, the use the throttle grip to turn to WOT, and back to idle. Not only should the value on the meter change from around 16-17 at idle to 97-100 WOT but you should be able to hear the throttle plates opening. Have you checked for codes? -Skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdvRich Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Do a compression test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megroovy Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 thanks all. I've checked continuity on all fuses but I'll check ou the diag mode and see what that shows up. cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Rectifier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 My bike will do that all day long if I don't get the key fully turned into position. Try moving the key just a bit further and then try starting it. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megroovy Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 Redfjniner, if it's that I may have to cut my wrists. Been fighting this for a month. On the diagnostics, I have: #61, error 30 & 89. #62, error 04. #67, error 02. All the TBS measurements were reading within the guides. Removed my injectors and cleaned them up to be on the safe side. Also ran a voltmeter across the middle injector from the loom during cranking but didn't measure any voltage. is that normal? is the voltage spike too fast for my multimeter to be able to see? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 It's an EU bike...is the immobile device all working 100% May or may not be related, but when 2WDW did my flash tune with Woolich Racing they accidentally used EU file rather than the US file... the bike would power on but never start...luckily they found this out before they sent my ECU back... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megroovy Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 Yup it's a UK bike. Haven't done anything to the ECU, I just left the bike alone for a month and this happened. I'm pretty sure without the immobiliser disabled it wouldn't even try to turn over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Diagnostic #61 error code 30 latch up detected Code 89- for Yamaha fancy dealership scanner #62 error code #4 - 4 faults in history #67 error code #2 - Idle speed control (ISC) - learing data needs to be erased... Check the tip over sensor for a latch up or any other saftey devices...might have a stored code for low voltage from old battery, etc.. Check out service manual chapter 9-5 thru 9-10 and chapter 8-35+ for more details on the codes 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Redfjniner, if it's that I may have to cut my wrists. Been fighting this for a month. On the diagnostics, I have: #61, error 30 & 89. #62, error 04. #67, error 02. All the TBS measurements were reading within the guides. Removed my injectors and cleaned them up to be on the safe side. Also ran a voltmeter across the middle injector from the loom during cranking but didn't measure any voltage. is that normal? is the voltage spike too fast for my multimeter to be able to see? I’m happy to hear all of that, but you were concerned if the throttle plates are MOVING. Just because you see an indicated TPS value change on the meter display doesn’t mean the plates are moving. Can you hear them actuate? 62 is number of codes, set switch to off, then run and it should clear the Historic (key word) codes, resetting the count to -0- Historic codes may not provide a clue in your case, unless the code 30 comes back as “Current” in which case I would suspect a problem with the lean angle sensor. Which disconnects the fuel pump, BTW. Current codes should appear in the meter display as a # after cranking for 4 seconds with no start. But not always. Code 30 usually means the bike was on its side at one point in time. And yes, the injectors fire too rapidly to pick up with a VOM, unless you have a peak voltage adapter connected. Other ways are with a scope, or a “noid” light (IIRC). You CAN check for V with the injector disconnected. The ECM provides ground. -Skip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Do a compression test. This is also a great suggestion. With throttle held wide open, this engine should have at least 160 psi per cylinder, depending on elevation and how poorly the rings are sealing from not being started in awhile. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megroovy Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 Redfjniner, if it's that I may have to cut my wrists. Been fighting this for a month. On the diagnostics, I have: #61, error 30 & 89. #62, error 04. #67, error 02. All the TBS measurements were reading within the guides. Removed my injectors and cleaned them up to be on the safe side. Also ran a voltmeter across the middle injector from the loom during cranking but didn't measure any voltage. is that normal? is the voltage spike too fast for my multimeter to be able to see? I’m happy to hear all of that, but you were concerned if the throttle plates are MOVING. Just because you see an indicated TPS value change on the meter display doesn’t mean the plates are moving. Can you hear them actuate? Yes I have the airbox off and can see them move a little but only at full throttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 I’m happy to hear all of that, but you were concerned if the throttle plates are MOVING. Just because you see an indicated TPS value change on the meter display doesn’t mean the plates are moving. Can you hear them actuate? Yes I have the airbox off and can see them move a little but only at full throttle You said you checked the fuses for continuity. Did you remove the 7.5a ETV fuse in the fuse box near the battery and inspect it removed from the bike? Ohm it out? What is the result? Simply putting a VOM across the fuse while installed in the box isn’t always a good test. I checked my FJ this am. I don’t have my air box removed as you do, but I believe I can still hear the plates open in DIAG mode. So I think you need to focus on that. Another clue here, is that d61 states 4 codes present, yet you only listed 2 code numbers. That means that 2 codes are still Current, and NOT historic. What numbers appear in the RH side of the display when you turn the key on, RH switch in the Run position? For example, when I removed the ETV fuse this morning that I mentioned above, and cycle the key on, I see 60 in the RH side of the display, indicating a fault with the YCC-T system. Because I removed the fuse. does your display show anything? Is it possible you removed the connectors from the TPS and APS on the throttle Bodies (black and gray connectors) and mixed them up when you re-attached? I’m brainstorming here. Keep us posted. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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