Bike not starting, at my wits end as to what's wrong.

[AdvRich]

Sorry I didn't add more to my brief post on compression check, but ran out of typing time the other day.
 
The thing that stuck me most with the vid was you stated you had spark and with that much starter fluid being shot into the intake, even with the butterflies closed, it should have at least popped if not sputtered for a moment. Also, the turn over rate is slow and labored and a bit uneven at least to my ear. Don't know the state of charge for the battery, which sounds like it is low at time of vid, but again it sounds labored compared to normal starting. My thought to do the compression test is that there are three main things needed for ICE's to run: spark, fuel and compression. At the very least with a compression test you have the final base operation values known before moving on to individual systems testing.
 
From my own experience, I had a bike fade and die one day while out riding in the early spring. I had ear plugs in and could hear the bike, but only the exhaust. Upon returning home went through checking fuel and spark, but no go. Did a compression test (ICE's wont' run below 100 psi) and the rear cylinder was around 90 something. Not low enough for a bent/burnt valve, but still not high enough to run. Pulled the oil filter and found lots of copper colored metal. in the end determined the rear rod bearing went, perhaps from cold oil starvation or bike just being too worn/old.
 
Just found your post on oil cooler failure. Didn't know about that Achilles heel for the bike, thanks for that. Curious, since it sounds like the bike was running fine before the oil cooler failure and now this no start condition. Just throwing this into the mix of thoughts, did you have a low/no oil running event along with that cooler failure?
 
Rich

[skipperT]

Sorry I didn't add more to my brief post on compression check, but ran out of typing time the other day.  
The thing that stuck me most with the vid was you stated you had spark and with that much starter fluid being shot into the intake, even with the butterflies closed, it should have at least popped if not sputtered for a moment. Also, the turn over rate is slow and labored and a bit uneven at least to my ear. Don't know the state of charge for the battery, which sounds like it is low at time of vid, but again it sounds labored compared to normal starting. My thought to do the compression test is that there are three main things needed for ICE's to run: spark, fuel and compression.
 
*SNIP*
 
Just found your post on oil cooler failure. Didn't know about that Achilles heel for the bike, thanks for that. Curious, since it sounds like the bike was running fine before the oil cooler failure and now this no start condition. Just throwing this into the mix of thoughts, did you have a low/no oil running event along with that cooler failure?
 
Rich

 
Don’t know why I didn’t watch the video before, but Rich is also onto something:
 
The engine sounds VERY labored, ie weak battery or something mechanical that’s causing the engine to rotate quite slowly.
 
Yikes.
-Skip.
 
 

[wessie]

The starter sound does seem laboured. Have you put a meter on the battery to test voltage at rest and when the starter is turning. Compare this to a typical bike. I can't check for a reference as I don't have a Tracer now. A difference might suggest some sort of power leakage when the starter button is pressed.
 
My focus is on the work done to the bike before it stopped working. This is the most likely suspect. What was removed to change the oil cooler. Are there any wires near? Has one been pinched between the new assembly and frame e.g. the wiring from the side stand cut out to the ECU?
 
I spent 15 years fault finding in an electronics factory for Xerox. Most of the faults I fixed were from assembly errors such as trapped wires. The ones where there was a low impedance from squashed insulation were the trickiest to find, or the chafed wire that only shorted out intermittently.

[Buggy Nate]

The starter sound does seem laboured. Have you put a meter on the battery to test voltage at rest and when the starter is turning. Compare this to a typical bike. I can't check for a reference as I don't have a Tracer now. A difference might suggest some sort of power leakage when the starter button is pressed.  
My focus is on the work done to the bike before it stopped working. This is the most likely suspect. What was removed to change the oil cooler. Are there any wires near? Has one been pinched between the new assembly and frame e.g. the wiring from the side stand cut out to the ECU?
 
I spent 15 years fault finding in an electronics factory for Xerox. Most of the faults I fixed were from assembly errors such as trapped wires. The ones where there was a low impedance from squashed insulation were the trickiest to find, or the chafed wire that only shorted out intermittently.

 
I agree on the starter sounding laboured. Although I think the problem is going to be a seized rod or crank bearing, especially if the oil cooler needed changing due to bursting/foreign object damage.
Take the plugs out and turn the motor over by hand to confirm. It should turn over easily. How did the cooler fail??

[AdvRich]

Perhaps a little Tom Waits in the meantime. 
 
[video src=https://youtu.be/w5poYkQnOr0]

[megroovy]

Thanks for the help guys. I had her picked up by a mechanic this morning, it's his problem now.
 

[duhs10]

Thanks for the help guys. I had her picked up by a mechanic this morning, it's his problem now.

Let us know what the outcome is...

[skipperT]

Yes I’m pretty curious myself. Hope it’s not a big deal.
 
-S

[FJ29ER]

Any updates on this?

[josh]

.....what was it?

[Buggy Nate]

As above curious minds want to know!