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Cruizin

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Posts posted by Cruizin

  1. On 2/21/2019 at 2:15 AM, captainscarlet said:

    Having just read Cruizin's post on the low level of traffic on Tech tips I thought I would describe my recent work fitting a K-tech shock.  This is not a particularly difficult job and many have done it before me.  I will add a few pictures later but for now I will describe the process involved:

    1. Bike on centre stand or paddock stand.
    2. The shock is held in place by two bolts.  The upper bolt includes a bolt, a nut and a washer.  The lower bolt includes a bolt, a nut and two washers.
    3. Remove the upper bolt first, access through the hole in the frame.  Working on the right side of the bike use a socket and extension (socket size to follow) to remove the nut.  I put duct tape around the hole in the frame to avoid scratching it. I found I could loosen the nut without holding the bolt on the left hand side.  Carefully remove the socket ensuring the nut doesn't fall out of the end of the socket.
    4. Next you need to get the washer off the bolt without dropping it.  I chose to use a small telescopic magnet and grab the washer before pulling it through the hole in the frame.
    5. Using a punch/screwdriver tap the bolt out from the right hand side and remove the bolt with your fingers on the left hand side.  This can be a bit fiddly as various cables and tubing on the left make it difficult to get at the bolt.
    6. At the rear lift the swingarm/rear wheel so that the nut and bolt holding the bottom of the shock are above the top of the swingarm allowing you to get a socket on the nut.  I put duct tape on the swingarm to stop me scratching it with the socket/extension.
    7. Undo the nut on the right hand side and remove the nut and washer.
    8. To remove the bolt, lower the swing arm again and use the hollow space on the inside of the swingarm to get the bolt and second washer out.
    9. Carefully lift the OEM shock out rearwards over the rear hugger.......and throw it in the bin! 😋
    10. Fitting the new shock is in classic style the reverse of removal however it may vary depending on whether the shock you're fitting has a remote reservoir etc. In my case the new shock had no remote reservoir.
    11. Slide the new shock into position from the rear.
    12. Raise the swingarm/rear wheel and slide the bolt and washer into the base of the new shock and attach the washer and nut on the right hand side.
    13. Tighten the nut on the right hand side to 44 Nm. You will probably need to hold the bolt on the left hand side to get the nut tight.
    14. Raise the swingarm/rear wheel and hold the shock so it slides into position in the upper mounting.  I pushed a screwdriver in from the right hand side to hold the shock in place whilst pushing the bolt in from the left hand side.  The bolt may be a bit stubborn to get in.  I used a punch/screwdriver to drive the bolt home.
    15. Place the washer back on the upper bolt from the right hand side.  I used my telescopic magnet again to carefully slide the washer over the bolt.
    16. Attach the nut to the bolt from the right hand side and tighten to 44 Nm.  To prevent the nut falling out of my socket I put a little dab of grease inside the socket.  Again you will probably need to hold the bolt on the left hand side to get the nut tight.
    17. Stand back and admire your handywork before covering the bike up again because you can't go out and ride it because it's -20 degrees Celsius outside. 😱

    Below is a picture of the new K-tech shock next to the OEM shock.  The K-tech is much lighter and also of a smaller diameter than the OEM.

    IMG_20190220_195051.jpg

    CS

    Well done, thank you!! 

    • Thumbsup 2
  2. On 2/23/2019 at 3:30 PM, motopumps said:

    There isn't much out there, especially for the Tracer 900 and GT to mount a GPS (or whatever) above the instruments, that is in your line of sight.  I hate looking down at the handlebars to read the GPS.

    After a lot of googling, I decided to build a GPS mount that would suit that need and not interfere with the windshield adjustment, be rigid enough to not shake all over the place and be light.  Tired of accessories that add tons of weight.

    This one uses a pretty standard .5 inch cross bar that many GPS holders will clamp to.  I am also working with a local machine shop to build a very nice mount that has standard APMs pattern for either horizontal or vertical mounting.  Exploring having the mount made in 6160 as well as delrin.  

    Here are a couple of shots of the first prototype in the white.  The twist creates a lot of rigidity.  Will report back how it is with 9.5 oz  of Zumo 660 hanging on it.

    IMG_8315-X3.jpg

    IMG_8316-X3.jpg

    IMG_8318-X3.jpg

    Structure above weighs 6 oz.

     

    It retains the stock rubber well nuts and nylon screws.

     

     

    Rob

     

     

    Great job on this, rob. Thanks so much for taking the time to write this up! 

    • Thumbsup 2
  3. 4 hours ago, gnr said:

    Yes, another oil thread.........

    Anyone use it in the FJ in the summer?

    The grade is fine for summer temps and it is JASO MA. I know a lot of people seem to run both Rotella 15w40 and 5w40 synthetic in various motorcycles with good results. I believe I have read that the 15w40 (non-synthetic) is actually more shear stable than the 5w40. Bikes would shear oil more due sharing engine/transmission oil. 

    Both oils are pretty cost effective compared to motorcycle specific oils and both are meant for heavy duty (diesel) applications. With 15w40 carrying the JASO certification (not sure about 5w40) it seems like a no-brainer. 

    Thoughts?

    Lol, we get new Rotella threads about once per week.  I am considering starting a whole new board just for Rotella questions. 

    As a tip, this forum has a search bar. Click on it and type in "Rotella" and you will see years of Rotalla threads and helpful info. In fact, forum search canusually answer most any tech question that most people have. 

    • Thumbsup 2
    • Haha 1
  4. On 1/11/2019 at 5:27 AM, happyrider said:

    Received Givi’s new TN2139 bars yesterday and they were just a little bit awkward to fit. 

    Fitting the right bar - the bolt at the top front was 10mm too long, if I had forced it in it would have damaged the alloy engine block. Had to cut 10mm off bolt (have informed Givi). The rear top bolt needs an extra 3 washers to make bars align comfortably. Washers disappear into bar tubing so can’t be seen.

    Fitting the left bar - the rear lower bolt which goes through the rear engine mount has to be withdrawn, it can be gently tapped out using a long cross head screwdriver. The engine did not move. I replaced the bolt the other way round with the nut on the left. This makes it very much easier to remove the crash bar in the future.

    To me they look good, but more importantly they will give lots of protection should I ever have to lay the bike down.

    did you change your text to white?  I just changed it back so people in the white theme can read it. 

  5. 29 minutes ago, rain said:

    Dunno why, but I can't get to this Teespring site.  Always 404.

    On VPN, or not, all shields down.

    Only get to the front page, (not the FJ menu) if I take out the 's' from 'https'.

    Don't have problems with the rest of the internetz, just this site.

    Not a good thing if it's a business trying to make a buck.

    Firefox, latest, nothing unusual about my build. Must just be me.

    What country are you in? Do you have an adblocker? Have you tried clearing your cache/cookies?  Teespring is a very popular website. 

  6. On 2/3/2019 at 7:06 AM, Chris Pope said:

    Locust Grove, GA (southeast metro Atlanta)

     

    On 2/4/2019 at 12:54 PM, undecider said:

    Austin, TX Metro

     

    On 2/9/2019 at 10:27 AM, turboturtle said:

    Born and still live in central Arkansas. Their are some excellent twisty roads to ride here 😉

     

    27 minutes ago, Squid4Life said:

    Bklyn Zoo York.

    Be sure to place your pins on the member map! 

  7. 31 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

    I wish you ha long sleeve Ts...

    How do the Ts run  in size; i.e., true, small, big?

    Mine fit right last time we did this.  Again, i dont print , ship or stock any of these shirts. Long sleeve t's historically dont sell very well, but if enough people ask I can create a few. 

    Which model shirt do you want in long sleeve? 

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