betoney

Meanwhile, for $485 the MCCruise model is a viable alternative and it works FLAWLESSLY!

You never measure the oil when it is on the side stand, all of the oil is on the left side of the engine. When you set your oil to the proper level on the center stand and then put it on the side stand the oil completely disappears from the sight glass.

Nothin' better than properly set up suspension!!!

Isn't it a nice feeling when everything is adjusted just right and there are no further add-ons you need? You can just take off and enjoy the ride.

Ok so now we all want to know the Yamaha price AND the eBay price. ?Ebay parts were $54.00 shipped, the OEM parts vary, about $30-$40 each side.

I just received the same ones from Ebay, the seller was very quick to respond with any questions and I had them in 9 day shipped from the U.K.

That top case looks much better and is an ingenious design. It looks like it will match the SH36 side cases nicely with the CF finish.

A Micro Driver is perfect for reaching in there.

tripleschack - I am really liking the black and white color scheme. VERY sharp looking bike!!

Another option is to just get the recall kit... if they let you have it.I went in to see my dealer about this today. He said they cant order say 75 recall kits, they have to order them individually by VIN number then once the service is done they can get that VIN checked off as complete. They have to have everything documented as it is a legal procedure. There's no way any legit dealer who wants to maintain his license will just hand out the parts and "call it good".

That is an AWESOME price for that helmet!

I adjusted my closed throttle setting from 17 down to 14 in DIAG: 14 and it really softened the on/off throttle transition, if you adjusted yours further down to 12 it must be as smooth as B mode. Yes, the values are listed in the service manual, the procedure is Ch7, p14/15.

Have you looked into the MCCruise? It is a very high quality product and a super clean install. The wiring harness that they build could pass for factory equipment, especially when it is plugged in with the factory Tenere switch gear. I was extremely impressed with their craftsmanship.

I just got in from a ride this afternoon and while riding I thought to myself, "Damn, I sure am glad I have this MCcruise to rest my right wrist". I dont regret the cost for a second, worth every penny.

Very interesting. I am curious to hear your results after a few tanks. If that is indeed the case, I may use B mode on some of the more long stretches while on road trips, and switch to STD or A for the fun sections.

Exactly, when I sent my ECU in to 2WDW to get flashed they called and were going over all of the changes and available options, when they got to drive modes they described A and STD, and finished with "now B mode... you dont really want to use B mode, because B stands for BORING!" (rofl)

My findings exactly. STD was almost on the money after the flash, but A-Mode was still a bit too abrupt for my liking, and that was my main focus. Moving it back a few digits was a noticeable improvement.

Yes I was. Closed throttle was 14 and WOT was 98. Diag: 15 was Closed:15 and WOT:99. Nothing wrong with making minor adjustments out of range, if you dont like the change, simply move it back, and best of all, ITS FREE!

Well, I just got back from my test ride after adjusting the APS and am happy to report the change is VERY noticeable! As Nels indicated, adjusting the value back just a few digits is all it takes. Mine was 17 and I dropped it to 14, its simple enough to do I might try 13. I tried it in STD and A modes and A just has the slightest abrupt transition from on to off or off to on throttle, but STD is absolutely seamless, almost electric feeling. To anyone considering this, do as Piotrek did and write your values down before you touch the APS so you have a starting value, then adjust it back 2-3 digits at a time. If you dont like it, simply change it back.

I too got the same information from Nels at 2WDW when asking about abrupt on/off throttle. "...What we found from testing is that even though the APS is in "factory specification", turning it back 3-4 degrees will fix the problem. You can loosen up the two screws that hold the sensor and turn it counterclockwise about a 16th of an inch. Just ever-so-slightly turn it back. There is an actual procedure to follow using the diagnosis mode. The factory specifications are "between 10-23" factory is usually set to 17. We have turned them back to 13 and that's all it took. This will make the throttle less aggressive but will not affect any of the top end. This has worked wonders on the FZ09" I will finally get around to trying this out on my next day off.

Good luck in achieving your goal! When you do, we want to see video.

I like that it is a brushed aluminum look versus a shiny stainless look. The big question though, will it work with the center stand? I couldn't find too much info online yet.

I love it. It's a perfect fit, I love the way it looks, and it does keep some debris/grime off the headers. It really completes the bike in my opinion. And they are strong, as you can see in the last photo. Didn't move at all when I cleaned a ditch with it. The center piece is removed for cleaning in that pic. NICE! That really does compliment the looks of the bike. Darn, something else to spend money on now.

It looks like you have the Ermax belly pan, how do you like it? I want to protect the headers a bit from road grime and was thinking about that belly pan as well as the fender extender. Do you have a side shot that shows more of the belly pan/ engine?

Glad to hear high praise for the suspension. My forks are in the queue to be worked on, they are the last upgrade I have planned, I can't wait to get them installed and burn through some twisties. We had snow again this morning, I cant wait for Spring!