2and3cylinders

The thing that pisses me off about Yuasa is Amazon has sellers that supposedly warrant them but if you go to Amazon you are just pounding sand. Worse yet, you have to call Yuasa with the manufacture date code to find out its fill date, and they're indignant you feel you have a need to know. It was at 12.9v+ when I got it. Put it on my 1.25a BT+ anyway. Went for less than a 100 mile shake-down run. Got back in the shop it was 13.44++ 3 days later it's still 13.12+ Not worried about it but I monitor all 5 of my batteries regularly. Only put them on my BT+ when necessary. As I said, I get at least 6 years out of all of them. Tried 2 Motobatt in my VTRs, was not overly impressed but mine is still 6 years old. Distributor is 45 minutes away. They had a friend ride over and replaced his 2 years after new because he though it was low, so that was heartwarming! Next time I'm getting a NOCO or something. A buddy has been running them for years and doesn't understand why anyone would have a AGM. He's still a track coach at 74 and everything is about weight. Other thing he does first thing is a slip-on but BMWs can all do that. FJs not so much. Yet he thinks his RT is a featherweight though he also has an XR. He just picked up an RC390 with full suspension and all set up for the track, $2,900! He's a shopper and only pays cash. Got his GSXR600 for like $5k. Also have a Noco Genius 2 smart charger that also handles LifePo4. Funky connectors but I bought their SAE adapter cable to which I can connect a SAE to coax cable, so I have 2 ways to charge the bike and run my heated jacket liner and vest, and plug in a volt meter / BT.

Good to know about the O'Reilly's battery because it's nice to have a local auto store if you're on a trip but it only has a 6-month warranty and the reviews aren't great but I got my new Yuasa from Amazon for about 20 bucks more which also people should know Amazon won't warranty but I've never had a problem with a Yuasa and the OEM lasted 8 years which is nothing to complain about

No just being a boy scout Thanks for the info Need to do work work today before I get into the trouble codes 😕

Mr. D So side stand switch screws are 5 mm? x what length? Bolt, Button Head 92014-05020-00 I want them in hand when I replace them with standard SS socket head screws & lock washers. What size & type are the 4 side stand switch cover screws? As I said last year, If I would have known they put red Loctite on them!!! I may have kept the one I replaced. If I recall they were about 1" long... Thanks

It's hell growing old because you've only stopped growing taller, not out!

On my shake down run of 95 miles my 15 cut out at around 40 miles after running fine. It ran a bit before completely dieing as I tried to rev it higher. It finally died when I revd it above 7k. Unfortunately I was on a freeway with a posted speed limit of 70 mph. While this occurred over several miles, I past and exit hoping to get to my intended exit 3 miles ahead. When it finally died I calmly coasted to a stop along a concrete wall far from the next exit. Kind of scary but traffic was light. I suspect old E10 gas from last October that I siphoned out of the tank into a plastic gas can to lighten the tank when I removed it for under tank access maintenance. Then, when I poured the same gas back into the tank, it maybe contained some crud from the gas can, and that is what caused my issue. On the road shoulder, I did not see any fault codes, and turned off and then on the ignition, and it fired right back up. Off I went and a short while later it started to actually again. It would rev but not high enough before it started to die but didn't cough. While still rolling I hit the start switch and it would pick back up. This occurred two times including when I exited at my target gas station. I filled up with E10 93 RON and it fired right up there, and I let it run there through 5 fan on off cycles then headed the 45 miles back to the Bret Cave. Only the way home I initially kept the revs down, the picked it up fluctuating around 80 + mph to keep with the flow of traffic. I got off the freeway (Interstate 94 south of Milwaukee) before it becomes 294 tollroad in Illinois and took US 41 south home which becomes 94 freeway again in Highland Park (where the 4th of July mass shooting occurred 2 years ago). I really ran the fastest red through it's paces on the return leg, +115, trolling 20 the snapping up to 50, then down again, working all the gears and Modes, hitting the back torque limiter, bouncing over bumps, etc. It didn't miss a beat. When I got home I added a strong dose of Techron, bounced the bike to fully mix it up and ran it through 5 more fan on/off cycles. Nothing, no more hiccups. I'm going to check for trouble codes maybe today. I never did like I said I would a year ago in this thread but did reset the APS again during the major service completed just prior to this shake down run. I also recalibrated the McCruise, which at first I thought could have caused the issue and turned it off during my roadside stop. But it happened twice (or thrice?) more with it off and I had it on heading home so I doubt it's the McCruise. So we'll see what the diagnostics reveal, and I'll report back. The only other time I had a different running issue is when after another major service I failed to fully snap in one of the plugs to the ECU. Doh Homer!

Well, I got out for a ride today. High 70s believe it or not about 40 Miles and the bike started acting up. It died, the first time I pulled over to the side. After that I got smart and just hit the starter while I was still rolling. It happened 3 times Wasn't sure if it was electrical but who knows? I was gonna stop anyway for gas. Because the E10 gas was from last October and it may have had crud in it. So I filled up on the way back, No problems and I took it through the paces. Broke a ton plus 15, up-and-down all 3 modes, on and off the throttle. Nothing it didn't happen again When I got home, I put in some techron, Shook the bike to mix it. started it again warmed it back up. Pulled in the clutch to hear the noise played with the manual cam chain tensioner adjustment, which I'll do again when it's not so hot because the fan kept going on and it's hard to hear the chain Anyway, a 40 miles my hip was starting to hurting. I did make it a little farther than I used to but I haven't ridden since last October My left thumb joint was hurting too God. I gotta look into a d c t transmission I'll try it again next opportunity but that's why we call it a shake down run With all the service I did, I wanted to see how it ran. And I had that glitch, but I also wanted to check out my Bod.

Is it flashing? I can't remember? Or just on Either wayou gotta check it out one way or the other Good catch dman

If I had the mula I'd buy for a spare LOL I have to sell 2 bikes as it is...

Never heard or seen it either Normal gauge functionality if you can call it that. Once I hit 150 I start looking for a station At 175 I start sweating Have gone 190 a few time but that's really pushing it 38 ~ 42 mpg is the norm If I ride really conservatively, I can get 45+ down hill with a tail wind. This is on E10, which in a 120 Mile radius is all that's available

Yep Dat ders da one

Thanks for your thoughts

Yes little things. Like being able to get out of bed in the morning without too much pain, and be able to stand long enough in front of the sink to brush your teeth...

Thanks I'm going to try to ride Saturday (for the first time since last November!) and will then try to evaluate for Gronk AND what, based on my bleary recollection, is abnormally load and unusual clutch activation noise when idling. However, being in my shop albeit with the 5.5 foot side door and 3 foot service door open, as well as 3 fans, it could be this possibly louder operational noise is accentuated indoors. Some Wet Cutches may be relatively noisy, but Dry Clutches can be expectations so with more of ringing noise as the metal drive plates dance between the hub and basket grooves and slots. Some riders, particularly Ducatista, love the sound of their tinkling dry clutches, which tend to get grabby when hot.

And it is the Fastest Red! How do you handle the in and out? Do the rag tops have over-door grab handles? My experience is once you're in there's adequate room. Like being in a cockpit, which is intentional. Leather seats though are slippery during had charging.

Confucius started the social covenant between parent and offspring that mandated children should be raised from day 1 so when the parents retire the children without question will take care of the parents in a style better than they were accustomed to. He said "Sow your seeds early in the season in neat rows so by early fall you may reap the bounty of your cultivation." SWMBO and I are already enjoying this practice even though we say we're not retired. And the kids don't know.

When you buy it, get the noco plug to S.A.E adapter From there you can get generic S.A. E to coax adapters too. The latter are more efficient. By the way, and what they use on heated gear. So you can charge your battery and hook up your heated gear to the same power plug. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W6B987F/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2L5NDMUH5L7GA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xp7LmRSipkouWwmUPgjaWu8R5N7tn3LdgA1Tgj1jlb_o6f6e2dS0H5cjSdIXPNWtiekB1mnp3SkaNpB2Z2LMhEIBh2ATEquDxoE_c0PHXuL8PThBeSWcfY-xNQEy_IBoXLsMMNq6LInT9uwHF2vDTX39yJwYPTtmqY2UpCxZUB8moCpOiRi1KMtA2-pCWdsSVthNPdnZUYv_D-BSXT37aA.4kbQnCvGKaS1Bv81AOoMjGKutg-qsE-2eGaVQNt52Ng&dib_tag=se&keywords=noco+genius+2+2a+smart+battery+charger&qid=1713897335&sprefix=noco+genius+2%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

https://www.cadillac.com/sedans/ct5-v-blackwing I hear you Good thing a bad heart isn't on my laundry list of things to get fixed

Thanks Brian yeah the bikes ready to go but I may need another rebuild LOL I can only dream of riding on roads that you basically take for granted it's got to be Nirvana As you know the roads I ride are just a faint image of what you can blow the cobwebs out on

Consider using Coaxial plugs like used for heated gear. Coaxial transfers power more efficiently, is easier to use and only requires a smaller round hole. Now I have SAE to but actually made and you can buy SAE to Coaxial cables, and extensions. You could also run a high output dual USB A power jack from inside the top box ur with Coaxial lead to the 12v to 5v converter unit. Lots of options

I just yesterday them at 33 / 38 when I reinstalled my TPMS unit. I never considered going higher than 36 in the front. I have a friend runs what I set them at, not the same bike but comparable in terms of weight, a S1000SX, and he also has yeas of racing experience. So when it warms up, and I get out for a shakedown run, my first attempt to ride this year, I'll pay more attention. Likely though I won't be pushing it. However, my season may end soon after it begins due to my bod. It always could be worse...

You could be right but the gravely noise & vibration when the lever is worked in and out right at the friction zone is of real concern versus just the gronk noise which I understand. What I'm experiencing not so much. I'll have to monitor and see if it improves once warm.

Cheapo 20 watters each and very bright and range enough I get flashed often, More than enough for 65 mph at night, and double what you need for conspicuity My Nilights have run 40,000 miles without a flicker. One bracket snapped & they sent me a new pair free fast! I can't recommend them enough Not Nilight but more like what I have though much brighter and same size. What do you have to loose for $35. I'm getting a set now as my Nilights probably are not as bright given the hundreds of hours of use. I'll report back. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CMGDGXQF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pf_rd_p=0d1092dc-81bb-493f-8769-d5c802257e94&pf_rd_r=JJQ3KJ690QC7YE8P7X95&pd_rd_wg=uP9zu&pd_rd_w=A8Wf9&content-id=amzn1.sym.0d1092dc-81bb-493f-8769-d5c802257e94&pd_rd_r=5a0e419b-8c14-4fa5-915a-bb1a207c55e5&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy&th=1 These are not them but a little wider but not as tall https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Auxiliary-Motorbike-Forklift-Warranty/dp/B08W58ZH4W?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Motorcycle-Auxiliary-Motorbike-Forklift/dp/B0BS9GFPTZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp

No other comments regarding the vibration and noise.I get with my clutch now.Thanks

A question for the peanut gallery: When verifying I had the gronk, which until now I had refused to accept the reality it could happen to MY fastest red 15, I noted when (albeit not fully warmed up), that when I initiated pulling the clutch lever, that I heard and felt a "rattlingly or gravely feel and sound from the clutch. When I pulled the lever past the friction zone and then fully in, it seemed this death rattle sound and feel diminished significantly. It almost feels like a failed throw-out bearing, or clutch basket hub bearing has an issue (or loose hub nut). Is this possible, or is this part and parcel to the whole feel the gronk love experience??? Inquiring minds need to know...