2and3cylinders

My Nomar classic is the silver hammered finish before they change to the white hammered finish which makes no sense I bought it at the Chicago Motorcycle Show few years back for like five hundred and fifty bucks including the balancer and some weights I thought it was a decent price cuz I got tired of taking the wheels off and over to a guy who did it for $25 bucks a wheel (in 2021 he had gone up to $60 per wheel) so it'll take a long time one-third the time to pay for itself get it paid back but as like you I've done friends tires as a favor. Actually as of 2022, I'm almost breaking even... No worries for now anyway about being over 200 pounds LOL I find using enough of their changing Lube makes it a lot easier but you have to be careful otherwise you can have a tire spinning on the rim for a while which would throw off the balance don't ask me how I know

[quote And its just habit, but I pry off the dust seals on the wheel bearings and check the grease anytime the wheels are removed for any reason. Overkill? maybe. Ok, thanks all for adding to my winter maintenance list! Not! I shudder to think how my grease is or is not after 23,000 miles in a year, as I ride in the rain... And I also pull the dust seals and grease at tire changes. Anyone else have a No Mar tire changer and tire balancer like me?

Pio, How many miles, you only said 2 years? I presume you are not in the habit of popping wheelies that would hammer the races and cause notchiness?

Yikes, really?! 100k?! Do you work or are just retired and independently wealthy. I'm going on 64 and will have to work until I'm 90 or later but by then I'll cut back to only 60 hours a week. I've only managed to do about 23,000 miles in 12 months, with only one trip over a 1,000 and most miles 200~300 a ride. Rubber covered pegs, hiway pegs on the case guards, custom Sargent WSP+, lower more swept and dropped bars, throttle lock, OEM heated grips, bikini-stock copy double bubble & a Givi tour with MRW spoiler screens depending on weather, reflective wheel rim tape, dual Fiamm 115 db horns (1 point frontward), radar detector, GPS and smart phone mounts, flashed ECU, LED amber side running lights, twin LED driving lights, LED brake light "bulbs", LED auxiliary brake lights and another set of the front OEM rear turn signals/running lights installed in back and with all 4 lit with LED bulbs. Comfort is no more important to me than safety...

Nice idea but I only run the SH46 top box around town and the SH36 side cases on trips. Now I have to measure my replacement bars to which I added bar end sliders along with the KTM hand guards.

When I worked many moons ago at Convair, we took advantage of the equipment, tools and material throughout the plants for "government jobs". If anyone asked us what we were working on, the standard response given the highly sensitive and security work we did was "Do you have a need to know". The trick was getting out of the plant when we were done.

So, are you going to offer a solid plastic socket to forum folks for sale? I need to adjust mine as part of my winter maintenance schedule and do not relish spending $43+ for a tool I'll use infrequently despite what the prescribed adjustment interval is (which IMO is kind of ridiculous unless you experience a possible related issue). I wonder if the bending tab plate locking washer can be reused more than twice. Also, has anyone considered when the OEM steering stem captured ball bearings and races need replacement going with tapered roller bearing? https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/546a26cdf87002164cb28028/steering https://www.allballsracing.com/ymmsearch/index/searchfromhome/

What length can is that, it appears to be SS with the carbon cap

Yes

I second Vesrah. If you want to downgrade to the 'JL' (note no leading 'R') that's a less race-focused compound. Also not a fan of EBC. I prefer DP Brakes. But Vesrah is my favorite. For Vesrah I do all I my business with www.kurveygirl.com DP used to be called Dunlopad, and I too liked them but they've gotten very expensive and harder to find than even the Vesrah. SBS also used to make some nice pads I think they were bought out by Parts Unlimited and they had a low friction pad I liked for the rear brake which they stopped making unfortunately

@2and3cylinders I was researching this some more and found a forum thread about Better Brakes that listed the caliper spacers as fitting an R6 - See here Thanks, of course STG is out of stock on the spacers but as it will be a winter project I have time. BTW, the Galfer 5 line kit is much less dear than the Spiegler, and Galfer has pads even most expensive thanVesrah. You get what you pay for most often but not always... https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/980/67995/Galfer-Stainless-Steel-Front-and-Rear-Brake-Line-Kit https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/spiegler-yamaha-fj-09-15-16-abs-front-rear-brake-line-kit-orig-routing/?sku=S%7CSP%20S-YA0307-BLK-BLK%7C0&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi7XQBRDnARIsANeLIevpOko-7poIElTBw8LLT4myxK0NTKditm2k3HiwiQxSjSxDijBW-pUaAneREALw_wcB

IMO yes they are worth their price and there are even more expensive pads As I said, I've had issues with 3 pairs of EBC pads in 2017. Not sure about Galfer but the Vesrah are easy on rotors, grab like anchors and wear very slowly...

I believe I purchased the Vesrah pads from RMATV / Denis Kirk https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/764/69603/Vesrah-Race-Pad-RJL-High-Performance?term=vesrah+yamaha+fz-09+14-16+rjl+front+brake+pads I installed the KTM handguards and the lower, more swept back Outlaw Racing TH-08 Low handlebars https://www.amazon.com/Outlaw-Racing-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Oversized/dp/B006NYDCO8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=21vttYNMkBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=Z8VFG8HJRKHDHVPT94NQ Consequently, the KTM handguards cannot be rotated upward because the impinge on the brake MC. Would the R1/6 MC with the banjo bolt at the bottom reduce or increase this interface conflict?

1. I'm not sure what year R6 MC will fit, my R1 MC is from an '06. Much better lever feel over stock. The banjo fitting is on the bottom vs. side fitting on stock MC. 2. Where did you purchase the Vesrah pads from? is HH+ too abrasive on the rotors vs HH? 3. I would be curious to hear your thoughts after fitting the Speigler lines, from what I have read, they completely bypass the rubber and hard lines on the bike. A brief summary after the install would be excellent. What size is the 06 R1 MC? I do not know of any HH pads, as most commonly available pads are HH+. I have found that the recently US manufactured EBC HH+ pads are more abrasive than those from other mfgrs but the Vesrah are very kind to rotors, or at least have been so on the FJ-09. I will be installing the Spieglers this winter and will try to remember to post up my comments and pics. I rung over 22,000 miles out of my 2015 FJ-09 (bought new in July 2016) and another 10,000 on my 110,000 mile 1998 VTR1000F in the last 13 months and thus have a long list of maintenance and mods to do on both. BTW, I'm hoping the new brake line and MC installations will solve my weird loss of line pressure every few months, which has caused me to bleed the front brakes 3 times in the last 12 months.

Resurrecting an old thread... does anyone know where these 12mm spacers can be purchased from?Thanks in advance. +1 on where to get the spacers, and is there another year besides the 2004-2006 R1 for rotors?? I plan on installing Spiegler brake lines from STG (free shipping and they include brake fluid and cleaner) and have been running the Vesrah RJL front pads (HH+ versus OEM only GG friction rating). The RJL provided improved stopping power but IMO only SS lines and maybe the R6 17 mm master cylinder (what years will fit?) will improve power AND feel. BTW, Bike Master sells a 10 mm mirror adapter (black or silver) for 7/8" handlebar clamps that replaces the OEM brake master cylinder clamp (PN 60-0401 Type T2 black). I also installed Bike Master mirror extenders.

Le Duc's... Where is that? I lived in St. Louis as a teenager and fell in love with Ted Drewes frozen custard there. I've been to TD's a few times, good stuff! Leduc's is in Wales in SE WI, where I do 90% of my day rides living in dreaded Cook County in NE IL. I have almost every frozen custard place in the region on my my GPS (Waze actually) but I'm not proud of it...

Oh? Do tell... Suspension is unquestionably the best investment I’ve made in the FJ.

Born to ride, work to ride, ride to eat frozen custard And I'm glad I waited until now to upgrade the forks and shocks...

What about over 20K miles? Last ride I went up to Wauwatosa, WI for lunch (Trip 1 is ride total; Trip 2 is whats on tank) been slacking off on mileage since bought new in July 2016. Work, work and more work (3 jobs)

I read it on one of the forums when researching rear chain adjusters. The issue if I recall was the side-to-side thickness of "pockets" where the bolt head and nut set into the adjuster causing insufficient thread engagement for the nut. I do not believe it was on a unit for the FJ-09 but am not sure. maybe the unit you received was post recall. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Aluminum-Chain-Adjusters-Tensioners-Catena-For-2013-2016-YAMAHA-FZ-09-FZ09-/231785650706 So far so good.

I read it on one of the forums when researching rear chain adjusters. The issue if I recall was the side-to-side thickness of "pockets" where the bolt head and nut set into the adjuster causing insufficient thread engagement for the nut. I do not believe it was on a unit for the FJ-09 but am not sure. maybe the unit you received was post recall.

I too have been considering a Black Widow exhaust but the low 400mm unit (http://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/fz09-fz-09-tracer-2013-2017-low-level-de-cat-exhaust-system-with-400mm-oval-carbon-fibre-silencer--carbon-tip-14642-p.asp) because to the human ear every 10db increase equates to 10 times louder. So at idle your'e 10 times louder than OEM, less so apparently at say 8, 000 rpm. Maybe the 350mm would be OK...http://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/fz09-fz-09-tracer-2013-2017-low-level-de-cat-exhaust-system-with-300mm-oval-carbon-fibre-silencer--carbon-tip-14614-p.asp

Unfortunately, here in the flatlands where Wisconsin's twisties are the closest yet still 1.5 hours away, I routinely achive 8,000+ on black doughnuts from Michelin, Avon, Continental, Dunlop, and Metzeler. However flat spotting is usually the first detractor to consistent smooth cornering. All the best 520 chains can reach at least 15,000 miles on 100 HP / 60 FP + bikes these days given a modicum of care, and 20,000+ if lavished with some love. The trick to this longevity on any riveted master link is not over-pressing the side plate on or over-staking the pin heads, and running the engine for long and thus getting a very hot exhaust pipe / Cat box with its close adjacency to the chain and it's high temperature heat sensitive rubber O-rings (or using harsh cleaning agents; and improper cleaning, lubing and agjustment methods). BTW,I use Kerosene ans a Tirox chain brush along with tooth and paint brushes (and cotton rags) but a friend swears by diluted simple green (oh the horror!). A Chain Monkey eases adjustment and either an automatic chain oiler Scott), Motul chain paste or Belay SuperclEan clear keep my chains close to godliness and rust at bay.

What about 20,000 miler category, like me? New July 2016 but due to a very busy year, only about 20k miles. Besides dozens of solely functional mods, the OEM tires lasted about 10k miles but really needed replacement sooner The highly touted following set of Metzeler Roadtec 01 while being very competent handling wise (relatively quick and responsive with good bump absorption if a bit numb but with really untested wet weather performance) were a disappointment mileage wise with the front cupping slightly and wearing on the shoulders sharply and the rear showing cords at less than 9k miles. This weekend on went a fresh set of Dunlop Roadsmart 3s which are not yet scrubbed-in and an EK 520XVX3 Gold with Superlite 16T front & Sun 45T rear steel sprockets (all very nice).

Now maybe I used a few of my cheap microfiber towels that I did not wash before using but the Givi screen scratches if you just breath on it. How scratch resistant is the Madstad being made of cast acrylic and do light scratches polish out relatively easily by hand? I know the National Cycle screens are hard-coated polycarbonate but that their mounting system has flaws. https://fj-09.org/thread/2137/madstad-windscreen-experience https://madstad.com/pages/faq