2and3cylinders

If I am off one or more teeth on the intake and or the exhaust cams it's certainly will run without things kissing each other badly. I've checked everything else that I can think of about for the condition I'm experiencing. Specifically, if you Rev the engine and then let go allowing to drop back down it dips below normal idle speed for a split second and then comes back up to standard idle speed. This split-second hiccup when riding can cause a stall at low speeds, it can be ridden around by keeping the revs up but it is annoying to a anal retentive / add / dyslexic like me. And it only began after I adjusted the valves and replaced the cam chain tensioner. I also of course changed the plugs, checked the throttle body sync and adjusted the accelerator position module. I triple checked the CCT, TB sync and AP settings, so it seems the only variable is the cam timing and possible resulting excess slack on the exhaust side of the cam chain.

ALL MY VALVES WERE VERY TIGHT AT 24,000 MILES REINSTALLING CAMS INDEXED (TIMED) CORRECTLY IS CHALLENGING TO SAY THE LEAST. I HAVE TO GO BACK IN AND CHECK THE CAM TIMING AND BE SURE THE CAM CHAIN IS TIGHT ON THE EXHAUST SIDE. MY APE CCT WILL TAKE CARE OF THE INTAKE SIDE (I DID HAVE THE CCT REPLACED PER THE TSB BUT BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ DO NOT TRUST EVEN THE LATEST OEM CCT). I HAVE A THROTTLE CHOP IDLE DROP ISSUE I'VE POSTED ABOUT ELSEWHERE I BELIEVE IS RELATED TO BEING OFF ONE CAM CHAIN SPROCKET TOOTH ON ONE OR BOTH OF THE CAMS DUE THE DIFFICULTY OF REINSTALLING THE CAMS... ANYONE KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT?

On my pin lock I use Sparkle which has no harsh chemicals and over the last 10 years as an damaged the pin lock I wipe it very gently with a high-quality microfiber towel with no lint

Don't know if IT offers the "RB" FOR the FJ let alone in 520, which is what I went with at 18k miles (now at about 25k). The front own rubber sprocket didn't look bad at all, nor did the rear for that matter but the oem chain was wasted badly. I'm not the most anal chain guy but still 18k miles is 3 to 5k less than I normally get. But I've not notches any real change in noise or vibration without the rubber front.

Maybe I need to ride (snow tonight again, grrrr...) and it was only run in my (heated, AC, carpeted, with Handy Lift shop), so the noise was obviously louder and contained. At idle in neutral it's OK, or is it with the clutch pulled or in gear it's noisy, or is it the other way around? I'll check but I'm old and have no short term memory, and older memories are fading fast...

I disassembled, patted off the oil and measured each plate at 120 degrees to derive an average thickness because the total pack thickness was over the max limit (I believe due to the different size friction and clutch plates cocking the veneer caliper reading), then added up the plate thickness and came in a bit under maximum. I very carefully reassembled the assembly, including evenly tightening(with a calibrated pound inch torque wrench (again) but this time with a new cover gasket. I reinstalled the push lever with a new washer and C-clip (and the "O" on the push lever down, and adjusted the cable at the bottom and then at the upper. I warmed it up to above 170 degrees and it seemed like it's now OK. I've found even with the FJ clutch pack that the cable free play needs to be less than spec. I then took it of the centered stand and tested engagement. It seemed as good as before and certainly has a lighter clutch pull but it is still the noisiest clutch among the dozens of bikes I've owned over the last 42 years; which a couple of FZ/FJ/XSR experts have personally told me is normal. Now onto the APE manual CCT (I have the TSB CCT done and don't trust it still), a 2009~2014 R1 front brake master cylinder with Spiegler lines front and rear (I've been running Vesrah RJL pads in front and may go to Galfer rotors rather than R1 plates for less centripetal effect and maintain easier turning), valve adjustment, TB sync check, fresh iridium plugs, coolant flush and change, engine oil and filter (I run Shell Rotella T6 with a Purolater BOSS filter), and I should be good to go. And then it's on to the suspension... Thanks for everyone's input but the clutch proof will be in the pudding whenever it stops snowing!

I've read every related post in this and every other thread on this forum and the FZ forum. Including links to posts by others who have done this swap. I said there is slop in the pull lever shaft equal to about 1/16 of a full rotation. I believe, if I follow you, that I rotated the pull lever shaft counter-clockwise to put tension on the shaft and then tried to align the punch mark with the arrow on the case with 0 adjustment at both ends of the cable (which is the new version). I also just realized after my second or third attempt at installing the push lever I may have installed it with the "O" mark facing up but again I do not see how it would matter given the pivot is symmetrical on the lever but again, I'll verify and correct per spec. I will dry the plates and check the stack thickness and then oil them and see what the change is...

That was one of my questions, as I installed the plates dry. As I stated, the XSR manual and everything I've read related to the swap did not mention soaking the plates first before installation. It does say to measure the the stack without applying oil; i.e., presumably with the plates dry (XSR manual page 5-44 at top). However, it next states "This step should be performed only if the friction and clutch plates were replaced.". So what is the intent? Used friction plates absorb oil and I believe swell and thus become thicker. I did not use the 2.3 mm clutch plate but bought it just in case because someone else said they needed it. I checked each clutch and friction plate and all were within spec. One thing I noted is some of the friction plates had the individual friction "pads" aligned on both sides and on others they pads were staggered but over-lapped on the opposite side. I used at leased 2 of the staggered pad friction plates. I'm wondering if I should pre-soak the plates but normally they get oiled during operation. Again, only 3 of the friction plates (from the Partshark "kit") were new or replacement. I did now just realize that while I staggered the last friction plate from all the other plates, I did not align it's tab with the punch mark per page 5-46 (near bottom). I wonder if that really matters as long as this last plate is staggered from the others but I'll change it if I did not.

I need input! I installed the slip-assist clutch yesterday. Getting the OEM clutch basket nut off was difficult even after heating the nut to crack the thread sealant, using an impact gun, a clutch holding tool (reacting against the foot peg), AND holding the rear brake with it in 2nd gear. Getting the cover to line up with the "pull rod" was also a pain even when greased but I got the knack of it. The new clutch pack was almost at the max limit thickness without the 2.3 #2 clutch plate. Adjusting the distance between the lower cable stay and pull lever to spec was touchy. Problem is, while on the center stand, when I snick it down into 1st gear it bangs hard and clanks like never before,. I'm concerned something broke now. Maybe it's because I have it on the centerstand with no load on the rear tire but man, it's scary. There is about 1/16 of rotation "slop" in the pull lever shaft which the pull arm rotates. I've tried installing the pull lever on the shaft rotating the shaft to take up the slop each way but it just seems there is not enough travel in the mechanism to de-clutch the plates. It does shift up and down but it seems like it takes more effort on the foot lever, it bangs into gear a bit, and is more notchy; all of which are contrary to one of the major reasons of the swap. I'm going to take it apart when it cools down to see what I can find, recheck the components, assembly and clutch pack thickness (I have the 2.3 mm clutch plate just in case) but, but as I stated above, the total thickness was right up near max without it. Is the slop (free play) in the pull lever shaft rotation normal. Could being on the centerstand contributed along with dry clutch and friction plates (the manual did not say to pre-oil them). I've run the bike on the centerstand without issues before the clutch swap with no such issues. I'm hoping I don't find broken bits. I'm at a loss!

Obviously single or not married without kids and a good job and no debt other than he brought upon himself spending all that money on an FJ

Did you take photos with the rubber heated grip off the oem heated grip throttle tube? Can the exposed portion of the heated rubber grip be moved outboard to provide a bit more of a gap between it and the throttle housing? If I recall the exposed portion of heated rubber grip is connected and one integral piece with the inner hidden portion from which the electric wires emanate within the housing. I want to install a Sound Off Products NEP throttle lock which requires more room between the grip flange and throttle housing...

Ahah, now it makes sense but they should of indicated that and not caused wasted time! I believe they used the universal yamaha heated grips...

How were you able to remove the oem heated grips from the throttle tube to which they are bonded and that extend into the throttle housing where the electric wire that feeds them power loops inside the oem heated grip throttle housing, which is wider to accommodate the power wire?! Photos?

Are you saying you were able to remove the OEM heated grip rubber from the throttle tube it comes on and install it on another throttle tube without damaging the heated grip?? Pray tell how did you loosen and remove the heated grip rubber?

Yes, T-rack for water sports available in plastic and aluminum. RAM offers 1" ball mounts to fit. Fabed my own adjustable height brackets (2 heights of mounting holes) that sandwich between the upper wind screen mounting holes. T-bar height varies with height of screen; i.e., bikini, oem size Double Bubble and barn door Givi with adjustable spoiler.

The screen has no effect on reducing the fore-aft movement of the "slop" I am refering to in the screen adjustment mechanism.

The slipper-assist clutch from the XSR and 2017 FJ would reduce lever pull and add a host of other benefits, and whereas there still would be a cable, it would be under significantly less stress and strain.

Other factors you have not included in your evaluation is the effect of the oem hand guards and, based on my limited sampling of every FJ-09 I've come across, is how the adjustable shield assembly has as much as 4~5 mm of fore-aft "play" that causes a rocking couple in the shield over pavement irregularities and fluctuating wind speeds and directions. Grab the shield at the top and push and pull fore and aft and you'll feel it. I also added spacers and high durometer foam dampers on each side at the bottom behind the shield sub-structure but IMO the oem shield is a lost cause. The $25 Chinese double-bubble clone of the oem shield though has posibilities. I now have a bikini shield for hot weather, the DB clone for moderate to warm temps and the Givi tour with A spoiler for temps below 75F.

Now this is a deal if you like flip-front, want Japanese quality, plush, quiet, well ventilated and comfort, AND have either a very large or very small skull that is medium oval to very slightly round. I have ridden in mine (they had a red that was almost a perfect match) for a season now and over 12,000 miles and think it is absolutely the best flip-front, nix that, best helmet I've ever owned. And that includes Shoei, Bell, Nolan, HJC, Scorpion and even Arai. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Modular-Gloss-Black-Kabuto-IBUKI-Lightweight-Helmet-Dot-ECE-P-Approved/182261760893?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=484747392588&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 By the way, the indicated sizing based on my experience is spot on. If you look at the bottom of the page linked, the same seller also has a flat black small Ibuki for $100 (why more?); as I prefer gloss finish helmets but each to their own.

After checking out hands-on ALL readily available 40L +/1 roll-top dry bags I determined IMPO that the CG bag was comparable to all but the really expensive bags and got it on sale 10% off listed. What they don't tell you is it comes with 4 pretty decent mount straps and has a 2 year warranty, and often honor defects longer. Probably not what the initiator of this thread is looking for but if you have top and side cases and no pillion buddy, a roll-top is a great means of waterproof storage if you do not need frequent access. And even then if it can be left attached, getting in is actually quick. https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/bilt-explorer-dry-bag

It's hammer time!

-3 is only 27F. Should feel balmy. We've got down to -15F without wind chill already this winter...that's -26 for you Canucks.

Go up to the first 3 photos in post 26

Showing possibilities, not off. I engineered another small, light sport touring rocketship (look for my posts regarding my sportier launch vehicle) with enhanced and added systems to function to my specifications. Priorities in order of importance were: Ergonomics (including air management and conditioning as a comfortable pilot can better maintain concentration), conspicuity (including lighting), brakes, engine response, suspension & tires, electric power system, instrumentation, threat detection, navigation, damage minimization, cargo capacity, and really, lastly speed enhancement. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/black-anti-vibrate-engine-guard-foot-pegs-w-clamps-1-to-1-1-4-highway-bars-crash-bars-engine-guards.html Available on fleabay and from kaspcomoto (try coupon code "giveme10")

This guy? https://fortnine.ca/en/nelson-rigg-cl-1060-s-sport-tail-seat-bag-cl-1060-s Yes and it also can serve as a bumm bag, and if packed it tight as a back rest; just not as tall, long or wide as the ST version.great for small loads. But usually around town I run my Shad SH46 top case because it's relatively secure and also slim for illegal lane splitting. On tour I add the SH36 side cases and a CG Bilt top-roll 40L dry bag or a top-half cover across the pillion saddle.