2and3cylinders

A* glove quality IMO has gone way down. The Mk1 SGS have been bullet proof...

Pyramid carbon extension, was available in ABS too

I have the rivets in black too but punched more vent holes in them and painted the metal knuckle guards black. These are my fav short cuff gloves; I got a second pair on close out when the Mark II's came out which IMO are not as good... Scorpion SGS Gloves :: MotorcycleGear.com Personally I like the SGS gloves by Scorpion. The overall design reminds...

maybe not... for the $, the K-tech is a lot better shock...

I opted for the adjustable compression and added a right fork cap with rebound for the left fork. For the additional dosh I'd go for everything. Fork fluid cSt (weight, given full synthetic) & air gap and spring selection is critical to set-up. However, the FJ-09's full handling potential cannot be realized without a better shock. Also, the brakes IMO are lacking and not that expensive to improve. Also go for an ECU flash... I could go on but...

where do you reside approximately? welcome to the fold...

It depends on your Mechanical Aptitude setup tools jigs I tore down my Forks polish the tubes flushed the internals with cheap ATF reassembled everything Blended my own fluid as mentioned and set it up to my liking and I truly think it is exceptional bang for the buck I think I may have posted how I did it in another thread but do your due diligence and look at some videos and get the tools you need and you shouldn't have a problem

A huge 👍for Matt and his fork cartridges and new shock sales. Chose for my 2015 FJ his advanced fork cartridge set that included compression (I installed the adjustable screw in the bottom of the left leg so it can be accessed after partially unthreading the axle, the right cartridge compression is fixed) and rebound (with provision of right OEM fork cap and rod for the left tube) in both legs. Matt also provided .95 Sonic springs and I blended my own 16 cst synthetic fluid. I also bought Matt's K-Tech Razor R shock with his custom spacer for a Torrington bearing he also installs to ease setting spring preload. So far with only about 500 miles to allow for wear-in, the results are VERY encouraging! Whereas shock length was verified to be the OEM 330 mm (if I recall correctly), rear ride height seems a bit high which may be due to the stiffer spring which sags less (even with my standard Shad SH46 top case loaded). This sense of an elevated rear could be heightened (pun intended) by the fact I had previously raised the fork stansions about 4 mm to quicken turn-in, which I will lower to stock fork height when I soon change tires (front and rear; the Dunlop RS3 have been great, again). I thought the stock geometry due to the OEM suspension needed quicker response with less effort, which the new suspension offers without raised tubes, even with less dive under braking (320 mm R1 rotors and Brembo 2014 R1 master cylinder, and Vesrah RJL pads). I dont get the longer GT swing arm but I come from sport bikes and think the FJ09 is a Barca Lounger for my retirement age damaged and arthritic joints. Again, hats off to Matt even though his communication response may be slow his customer service is great and he seems to care.

Highly likely, as other than the longer swing arm (not relevant here) and quick-shifter rod in the linkage, nothing should have changed.

i was going to suggest the MFW Vario system Vario Footpeg System WWW.MFW-WOLF.DE I seen the Ebay Chinese knock offs but am unsure of their quality and structural integrity with a couple of different indexing designs noted. The MFW's on my VTR1000F have withstood my considerable girth for probably 70k miles... How did they work with the brake pedal (mods needed)? I'd think the shift lever could be adjusted to suit. Only issue I see is I really like my fleabay rubber covered pegs that are significantly longer than OEM. MFW does have 2 different styles of rubber covered pegs for their Vario system, and link plate lengths.

these were great and cheap 1. Outlaw Racing TH-08 “Low” Black 1-1/8” Handlebars (shortened 18 mm w-ends drilled & tapped M16 x 1.5 x 30 for OEM M8 threaded bar end inserts). Packed full & solid with BBs

That's why I dropped a tooth in front but afterward I did notice as much as 2 mpg drop. That's the reason I went back to stock, fuel range is critical when touring often...

I tried 1 down in the front at about 15k miles and went back to stock when I replaced the chain and both sprockets at about 22k miles. I don't find the FJ to be buzzy (Grip Puppies, bar packed ed with BBs and rubber covered pegs may explain some of that) but I like the snappy and revy nature of the CP3 engine (albeit after having the ECU flashed) and often ride in A mode. In fact, I sometimes catch myself cruising on the freeway in 4th gear and only notice because of the higher gas mileage read-out. I have my 15 set up as a sport-tourer (Shad SH46 top case and SH36 side cases, and a Givi touring screen with adjustable spoiler) but like a good romp Sunday in Cheeseheadland as much as I do on my VTR1000F; which I also moded to the touring side because of my aging bod...

Does this issue only apply to the new GT? As I've had Givi case guards on my 15 FJ-09 and don't recall this problem but now I need to look 😞 I also flip-flopped the bolt for the lower left bar...

I carry both a 14 mm combo open / box end wrench and 14 mm socket but a 14 mm hex key (Allen) is not necessary (though I have one it provides poor leverage unless a spark plug socket or pipe is slipped over it for comfort) to remove the front axle. Instead or in addition to I include in my on-bike tool kit a 3/8" - 16 TPI x 1-1/8" Coupling Nut (whose outer dimension/shape is a snug 14 mm hexagon), which nicely fits in the front axle to loosen it with a box wrench or socket; and is much more compact and easier to use than a 14 mm hex key. Available at your local Home Depot or equivalent...

OEM is likely made in the same factory...

Has anybody come up with a way of defeating only the rear ABS yet inquiring minds want to know

I did that many years ago and then made a little enclosure for it but it is definitely not the same as the dynaplug pump which is smaller has the screw on hose the LED light and the airport to check pressure well it's still connected it also doesn't run is hot or vibrate and is relatively quiet so not all pumps are created equal just my opinion

I bought this a couple of years ago for about 45 bucks, they still sell it at cycle gear but without all the attachments very light and compact relatively smooth and quiet I'm actually pretty impressed with it and it's relatively light weight, and has an LED light and a port to check air pressure while you're filling it. the gauge that comes with it isn't that accurate though but I use a slime digital that was pretty cheap

They can be had as covered in a couple of other threads on eBay for less than $10 for example anything that fits in FZ6 we'll fit at least up through the 17 FJ 09 I believe Do a search them and side stand foot expanders ra dime a dozen

20% weight reduction with slightly faster spin up. With the relatively high redline, rev happy and grunty CP3 engine, I felt a 15T front was over-kill, increased vibes and reduced already disappointing gas mileage. I also cruise at higher speeds to get to the abysmal country roads we call twisties, so lower revs reduce rpm = less buzz and more mpg. Even though I installed a 2016 XSR900 slip-assist clutch, dropping down 2 gears and dumping the clutch if needed is less stressful on the drivetrain with a 16T

Am I the only one who went with a 520 DID ZVMX with Superlite F&R sprockets?! Tried a 15T front but went back to OEM F&R...

I have a long 14 mm ball end too that I tried but it interfered and didn't think of grinding its circumference let alone flattening the end of the ball I'll have to try that thanks for the suggestion

If you jack up the rear of the engine slightly remove the bolt, clean and Lube it, and then install it reversed so the threads are on the left side, it is much easier to remove the left case guard when it's time to adjust the valves because the left case guard blocks access to the crank bolt and timing mark port If you look at my photos I already have some great driving lights and highway pegs that work very well

Uh, yes, that's one more result but physics and geometry are a multifaceted science often clouded in black magic...and I'm also an engineer who has been playing with bikes (and raced) and ultralights since the early 70s, so I've learned a thing or two. I love a short swing arm, steep geometry and my as in the air, makes stoppies SO easy! Wag that tail!