2and3cylinders

Well I ran the bike and the heated grip display did come on and could be adjusted, which was encouraging. According to my forum search when others lost heat the heated grips, their display did not appear. I was difficult with the grip puppies to feel heat and I rolled them back on the onboard side but the non-contact digital thermometer didn't seem to go up much as I had my hands on them to feel for heat, which could explain the slight rise in temps. Normally after 5 minutes I've felt them warm up but in the shop even with both doors open and a fan blowing I was being asphyxiated. I guess I'll pull the right fairing and check for continuity. Is it true there is no dedicated fuse for the heated grips? I had the dealer install them as part of the purchase but had them give me the instructions and original grips and throttle housing, so I'll also check the instructions and shop manual.

Oh, and hopefully you'll get your text ride in. It'll be 43 here tomorrow but the roads are saturated with salt.

I like that, 5 hour guy, LOL I'm more like a 5 minute man, I'll forget something in 5 seconds, really. I'm always trying to find where I put something or recall what I was supposed to do. I write myself notes but misplace them. So I try to remember to use my smart phone calendar and alarm. But pain and having pish constantly is hard to forget. On the other hand a fair bit of ADD, OCD and Dyslexia and actually help as much as it hinders.

As an old(er) engineer, I never make assumptions, or even presume much. I understood your "handle" referred to your FJ-09 rather than you, and age is a relative. Most everyone when it comes up think I'm a lot younger that I am; genetics I guess because I certainly don't do the things I should to better preserve myself. Unfortunately, I used my body as a "hammer" in my youth and consequent joint damage has caused me significant arthritis and sciatica issues that I'm trying to manage well enough to pull 500 mile days. A Sargent saddle, different handle bars and screens, a throttle lock and Cramp Buster (toying with getting electronic cruise control), more ergonomic hand levers and fine tuning of control interfaces, upgraded suspension, rubber covered foot pegs, tank grip pads, easier to activate and much better stopping brakes, decent ear plugs, good helmets and gear, highway pegs, and lots of NSAIDs, stretching, needles and PT, etc have enabled me to still pull long, repeated days in the saddle. I'm actually more comfortable riding than driving in a cage. With a 32+ inseam I may try then moving my highway pegs closer to your location (though I have driving lights up there) on my set of Givi case guards. Their current position (which is why I posted the pics, though harder to spot as they're black) is OK and I can actually rest the back of my calves on them with my legs straight out. I've considered an AM can but I like to be stealthy and installing one would entail investing even more money and time including having the ECU flashed again. As I've invested way too much in it already for what it is, as for a comparable capital outlay and a bunch less wrenching time (I do ALL my own work in my comfy and compact personal "shop") I could have had a very nice FJR or ZG14 (but didn't want the weight and girth nor all the plastic). I'm satisfied with my fastest red's performance given what it is. It doesn't feel particularly fast or powerful to me (I'm maybe a bit jaded by other higher performance bikes I've had); adequate would be the term I'd apply to my FJ-09. Oh and in regard to assumptions, my "handle" reflects that one of my current two Yamaha's has two cylinders (a 76 or 77 RD400, I can't recall offhand), and to the subject vehicle at hand. Not that I'm quite all there. My memory has never been good for several reasons, and has eroded further as time marches on. She Who Must Be Obeyed (a "saint" of a "Human Female") thinks my cranial function decay has been enhanced by CTE from landing on my head one too many times. Possibly so, and mostly likely from many years as a fervent Judoka, and really only twice significantly from parting ways with a two wheeled conveyance; one with a motor, one without. Sorry for using up so much bandwidth on topics directly related to this thread's topic. And again, no insult intended but engineers have never been known for their tact, empathy and having a deft hand with social graces...

Nice doughnuts but it's so flat around here most sport oriented street riders go for sport touring rubber like RS3, PR4/5, etc or we'd be changing rubber due to flat spoting twice or more a season, sigh...

Yes I know but that entails removing I believe the right fairing cover and disconnecting the plug, etc... Much easier to just run it and check with a thermometer or just a readily cold hand, plus it flows some more new Techron small engine treatment through the TB and top end, and I get to enjoy the sound of the engine if not be able to ride. Torture possibly. 😞

Besides the Givi barn door for under 50, I also run an OEM size DB with spoiler for moderate temps, and a lil' bikini screen for really hot weather...

New1709rider, thanks for the input kid... Who's big silver can is sticken out your right side, and aren't those hiway pegs a might high n forward your shortish legs (no insult intended)?

Let us know. Any more from the peanut gallery? I've read here 5-10 people running 24 inchers

Yes, I remember and concur, when I forget to turn the grips off, I realize this when I grab em to go. So nice and comfy... I hope the left still works... Thx

Whose / Which rubber are you running?

Lynn County in Staked Plains or NM? Don't know much about how to install that Shield but I'm more Curious of your opinion of the best height for me relative to what you have and your size thanks

BTW, I can still easily see over the top of the MRA spoiler

I'm considering the 26" Madstad to see if it's quieter with less buffeting than my Givi barn door tour screen with a bolt on MRA tour spoiler. I'm only 6 foot but have an Orangateng upper body, slightly taller bars with more sweep with the bar risers in the back orientation, and a Sargent saddle in the upper position. Does anyone think the 26" is too tall for me? I've thought of adding spacers under the Givi lower 2 spacers to increase the pitch to have more under flow to equalize pressure first but all this will have to wait for spring.

What's your 20, as I'd love to be able to blow out the cobwebs and chillax after having to shovel snow off 2000 SF of drive and walk. Now I have to profilactically salt... 🙂

"And in gear", are you sure about the latter? Where did you glom this? It makes sense the heated grips are powered by a relay or the ECU when the engine is running and juice is being "generated" but it would be unfortunate if heat goes off when in neutral, for example when checking directions, making a call, etc.,. I'll test this all out and report back. Thx

My left OEM heated grip power supply wire became a bit loose and frayed where it enters the grip so I reinforced this location with a boss of 3-M side molding adhesive bonded to the grip with 2-part epoxy. I thought the left grip was still putting out heat last I road on X-Mas but didn't test functionality after the wire repair. The other day (as one of my winter mod & maintenance projects) I then finally got around to replacing the OEM bars, having gone back to them after running Outlaw Racing's "TH-08 Low" bars (being used to a lower, more sporty stance on my VTR1000F and RD400) a year or so before my neck, lower back and sciatica called foul loudly) with Renthal Street Naked bars but when reinstalling the KTM Adventure hand guards inadvertently got the left heated grip power with caught up in the hand guard's bar clamp and pinched it good. The wire sheath had a small, short lineal tear but the ground wire and inner insulated power leads appeared superficially undamaged. When I tried testing the temperature output of each grip with the ignition on but engine off, I didn't seem to get a reading on my infrared - laser pointer digital thermometer. I will try again when the weather warms a bit (once I trudge through and clear the heavy, wet 5" of snow we got last night) with the engine running in my shop (with the door open and fan on LOL) but thought I'd ask if anyone else knew if the engine had to be running for the heated grips to warm up. TIA

Thx sgain

Thanks much, I'll give a shot!

Still can't find it on Google play?

Which of these, if any, is the ESR you use? Thx

Boo hoo, poor boys, 98 degrees, tough to take. I'd kill for weather like that. And I bet it's with low humidity (on the other hand not good for fires I presume, a HUGE negative). Here when it's that hot we'll have 98% humidity but today the high will a balmy 29°F (that's -3.3 to you F challenged). Cheers!

A piece of quality 2" side electrical tape over the hole would keep dirt out, and On top... I installed a low profile sunken hex recess drain bolt and trimmed the protective fin and don't jump curbs, and have stiffer fork springs and Matt's advanced fork cartridges and a K-Tech Razor R shock but might get this skid plate for the rare times I check out groomed gravel roads. Just hard to hand over that much $ for such a simple design.

I do not think the SW MT skid plate is particularly inexpensive and given your review, also not durable. Can't a hole be drilled the plate so the older style bottom drain plug can be removed without removing the plate?

I got out last on X-Mas, then the snow hit... Oh well, we were on borrowed time. Time to start delayed winter maintenance and projects (like a third bend of handlebars, Renthal Street Nakeds; went back to OEM after running Outlaw Racing TH-08 Low until my sciatica went crazy)...