2and3cylinders

I do not think the SW MT skid plate is particularly inexpensive and given your review, also not durable. Can't a hole be drilled the plate so the older style bottom drain plug can be removed without removing the plate?

I got out last on X-Mas, then the snow hit... Oh well, we were on borrowed time. Time to start delayed winter maintenance and projects (like a third bend of handlebars, Renthal Street Nakeds; went back to OEM after running Outlaw Racing TH-08 Low until my sciatica went crazy)...

My K-Tech Razor R shock remote reservoir attaches to their nice bracket that bolts with the provided longer screws to the foot peg bracket, all of which block mounting an oiler reservoir there...

I've used a Scott Oiler on two other bikes and like them. Because they got so expensive I installed instead a Lubeman oiler on the interior side of the vertical portion of the tube frame for my left side Shad SH36 pannier. I use the same blend of Marvel Mystery Oil and tacky chain saw blade oil as I do in my Scott Oiler but need to very slightly increase the down angle of the forked feed head, so the jury is still out on the Lubeman.

I thought about my concept before I saw your reply, and was going to it the insertion of two lengths of steel wire,one on either side of the bracket, in conjunction with the high modulus steel fiber-filled epoxy; same concept as concrete and steel rebar (which is a composite). I'll insert a wire first to determine if the tube is one continuous piece, and if it is, the wire can be also used to "work" the epoxy into the tube. Probably won't try this until later this winter along with my other winter maintenance projects, as I'm still too busy riding this week with this crazy warm stretch we're having here.

I wonder if "Liquid Steel" type epoxy could be injected into the tube (obviously first blocking off the opposite half of each end of the tube on the other sides of the "offending" brackets; and whether the epoxy would act as an internal vibration damping medium and improve fatigue strength, which is often reduced due to vibration (frequency harmonics) as often as it is by load and/or impact (flex) induced stress. Thoughts? It would be interesting to attempt it but if the tube does NOT crack, could it be attributed to the epoxy injection...

I've worn the Transit 2 suit for several year; finest most versatile suit ever except for + 85 F days. The Held suit is not even water resistant let alone waterproof. The Transit suit is all treated to keep you +20 F degrees cooler, and it works,I've tested it against HD back leather. The armor I not CE certified but is eq to level 2. The BMW Atlantis suit is water resistant but not wp and must be sent back to the Fatherland every few years to be re-treated. Worse it is Nubuck leather which does not slide in a crash very well. 2018 BMW Atlantis Jacket | Men's | Bob's BMW 2018 BMW Men's Atlantis Jacket $1099! Free shipping! Check out all the... Rukka makes a comparable though not all leather Gortex laminate though better vented suit but it's even more $ than the Transit. the Transit 3 was on sale with free shipping for $1600 which is less than I paid years ago but the new Gorepro leather while softer is not as tough. I have a 25 year old Aerostitch classic two piece Roadcrafter suit that is still going strong! Even more versatile but not near as sleek and stylish... Products – Rukka

Thx

Diameter threaded rod / bolt ? Thx

Those ARE huge... My $25 eBay LEDs do a decent job at night and any brighter I'd get flashed by oncoming traffic a LOT more than I do now. IMO the OEM headlight does a PDG job. Note my switch location... I understand mounting those humongous lights to you case guuards would be problematic but it sure is a much easier may to go...

7659.494 USD

Ever ridden a VTR1000F SUPERHAWK / FIRESTORM? If you you like Ducati V-twins this Honda is the same (as is the RVT/RC51) with loads of character (charm?), are sneaky fast, torquey, smooth, and shift great. My VTR is complimentary to my FJ, and my RD400 contrasts to both. Now my old 72 H2 Mach IV just is from another planet... I Oh, and a well kitted VTR with low miles in decent shape can be had for a comparative song.

BTW, for the money, if you add fork tweaks, QS, CC, heated grips, panniers and whatever else the GT has over the standard Tracer, it's much cheaper and easier to get the GT. If I hadn't done all but the CC which I really want less the QS (which I don't) I'd have sold the 15 and got a GT. But with the XSR slip-assist clutch, 3-way forks and Razor-R shock, I only pine for the CC. All my other mods I'd do to the GT as well, and I did'nt find the longer swing arm of any benefit at all. What you doing to your TRACER 900?

Nice, about $200 under what I paid for my 15 new in 16 but for the fastest Red FJ. But what were 19 GTs going for?

Photos of your apparent issue would help diagnosis...

Nice job but a lot of work and $ for a minimal gain in performance IMO (given the slip/assist clutch is installed)...

Thanks, which what I mentioned in my first post to this thread. Let us know how it goes and keep up the good work!

KTM hand guards?

Given I use the OEM risers (no bar-backs which raise and move back the bars) I was not too concerned about brake hose, clutch cable and electrical wiring slack. Are those my KTM hand guards? BTW, whose levers are those and does their length adjust and do they also pivot up or down in the case of a tip-over?

Up through 17 it's under the saddle, why would they change the location on the GT?

Not sure but think later years are not Brembo, which may not be any worse; and finding one used in a known decent shape for cheap is very difficult. I don't like trusting a used MC when a new one from PartShark.com was only $90 (new R1 rotors were also very reasonable). I made my own MC mounting bracket and bar clamp mirror bracket from MasterBike... Caliper spacers and longer bolts are Matt's, lines Spieglers and pads Vesrah RJL now EBC HH+

I didn't, that was a before photo of the low bars. I installed the R1 MC, Spiegler lines, 320 mm rotors and new HH+ pads when I went back to the OEM bars. Matt's 3-way cartridges, Sonic .95 springs, my own blend of force fluid, and a K-Tech Razor R shock completed the package

I've gone lower and went back to stock and previously considered the Street Naked and now am again, along with the Pro Taper Contour Raptor, EVO Dirt Track (which are too wide) and the Neken 133, Orig. RMZ and Orig. YZF because of their increased sweep. I've also considered the Rizoma MA008, MA005 & MA009 (as well as others). You stated you test fitted them, have you installed them yet as others have but some deleted the hand guards. A few questions. Is dimension D have adequate room to fit the OEM risers (I believe they do)? Do the ends needed to be drilled and tapped for the OEM bar end threaded inserts? With the KTM hand guards I have, do you know if there still be room for the OEM controls given dimension F is .79" (10 mm) less ? I can heat the plastic on the hand guards where they clamp onto the bar as needed to extend them into the first inside bend. Another concern is that I'm planning on buying the McCruise CC with their new 5/8" wide control switch that is vertical and fits between the left control pod and clutch perch, thus demanding that much more room. Attached are photos of the lower Outlaw Racing TH-08 Low bars I had installed and my current bar set-up. Thanks

I live at 630 or so feet ASL so not an issue for me but a little clamp on the feed line would have solve your problem, something like on an IV bag. Now obviously something like the Scott Oiler may work for higher elevations for 6 times the $. I've used a SO decades but the needle valve does wear out...

Like California and other western states Here we're entering winter, got 5 inches already, we test year on record breaking last year's record. Actually killed a lot off vegetation and ruined the corn crop. Wish we could send some rain down to you...