dazzler24

Not sure what you mean skip but I found mine for the 2015 model albeit for MT-09? There are later models that get a mention though - Tracer900 etc. You may have got caught like I did initially and didn't select the street option first?

Hmmm.... this looks familiar.

I think the skipper is asking about this particular brand of suspension products if I'm not mistaken. I must admit that I'd never heard of them until this post. After a bit more research the products are sold at one of the more respected suspension shops here in my neck of the woods so that might indicate their quality? Apologies to those who are in the know if these are a well known brand and I'm just showing my ignorance in the sphere of suspension products.

Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

Long overdue ride in the country after starter relay issue finally got fixed and front flat tyre recovered itself? Yes, that last one's a mystery. BROOLOO Range KENILWORTH MONTVILLE

Yes, new relay is working as advertised and bike cranks as desired now. Why it died prematurely is one of those mysteries of life. That's what I'm going with. 🤷‍♂️ Tyre seems to be holding pressure today after being pumped up overnight so can only assume (never good) that the shrader valve hadn't seated properly. It had been 2 weeks or so that it had been inflated so I could still have a slow leak somewhere. I can only monitor it now. Again - 🤷‍♂️ Why a she? She only gets called a she when she gets temperamental and over the last couple of months she's been a she. 😜😉 Will I be in trouble for saying that?!

Got my new starter relay installed (old one defecated itself) and decided to wash the bike before contemplating a long overdue ride. She felt very heavy on the steering as I wheeled her outside - flat front tyre! No obvious punctures so I've pumped it up, sprayed some soapy water around the likely spots but all looks good and will check again in the morning.🤷‍♂️ Maybe the valve didn't reseat the last time I topped up my tyres. 🤷‍♂️ There's always something to keep you guessing. Anyway she's all clean again. And before someone asks, the pressure washer was used on a very low pressure.

Sad face indeed @2and3cylinders. I've sent them a stern email about my displeasure and I'm sure 😏 I'll get a completely logical reason why us colonials are gouged out of the equation. Whatever, and moving on....

I would quite like one of these BUT.... not when the freight to the land down-under from the Old Dart is just over 60% of the price of the lift itself. OUCH! I also note that freight to the US is only around 28% on top of the list price after conversion. Why such a discrepancy? Sadly I'm forced to look at alternatives. Disappointing to say the least.

You'd got me worried that I'd stuffed up Brian so I went hunting for the cable routing in the service manual. I must admit that when I was taking my photos I wondered why the cable didn't follow the others through that access hole and there was that pang of uncertainty. 🤔 Your routing method would shorten your path and may in fact be advantageous considering that you have the risers and the swept handlebars - just like I have! I might have to re-think my path at the next major service. I'm sure both cable routing methods work - and clearly they do. But it does appear that Yamaha have the cable routed via that clamp at the top of the radiator as per the attached in a standard OEM configuration. At the end of the day, I guess that as long as the cable doesn't get pinched, obstruct movement, affect the clutch operation or impinge on anything important, then it doesn't really matter where it is run.

This is the route that my cable takes on my 2015 model in photos. Maybe that will help for comparison? It appears that you may have come around the front of the ignition assembly rather than behind it if that makes sense. HTH. Looking from underneath up: - Note that the cable passes through a little guide that is also part of one of the radiator top clamps: -

Ah yes, I remember posts around those things. I'll go hunting. Thanks 2and3. It looks like my leak is my dashcam power supply. It's one that you connect directly to the battery and has an ignition sense wire (separate) that turns it on when the key is turned. I might just connect the sense and input together to a suitable source at the front. One of my AUX connectors I'm thinking. Cheers. EDIT: - Done. AUX 2 now has my Garmin GPS and my dashcam power supply (with its sense lead) connected. Current measured is around 1.5 A max.

I think you were right on target when you posted that @knyte!

I hear you! With mechanical problems at least you can see or hear the likely offender. On that note and while I've got things under the seat pulled apart, I thought I'd check my 'add on' electrical connections that I've done over the years. Seems like I've got a leak that I wasn't aware of and would now explain why my voltage had dropped to just under 12v when this whole dance started. I normally put the bike on my smart tender soon after every ride as a matter of habit which has masked this newly discovered issue. It was only because I'd left it off for a few weeks that had me initially thinking that my battery was on the way out and subsequently looking in the wrong direction when fault finding. Which leads me to this question -Are there any switchable points (with ignition switch) under the seat?

No worries mate. Thanks for the feedback. These seem like a solid battery and made in Sydney apparently. Enjoy the SBK over the next few days. 👍

Thanks and yes, it's kind of satisfying to be 100% certain after the fog has cleared and then there's a clear path to a fix going forward. On reflection this has been on the way out for quite a while now as I've had dodgy random, but only very occasional, no response from the start switch. I should never have ignored it but at least can be thankful that it finally gave up the ghost completely while I was at home. Cheers knyte. 👍

Thanks. Not before I was convinced it was the battery and then the starter motor though. It's a good example of the need to be thorough and logical and not be drawn into a gut feeling which could have cost me a whole lot more and ultimately been a waste of time. Rely on facts only and not what it seems to be. Cheers

No is the short answer. The contacts are attached to the external connections via a riveting method. I drilled them out just for an exercise really. The bottom line is that they are a sealed unit and have to be replaced complete.

Thought I'd share what the inside of a burnt contact starter relay looks like.

Looks like I don't need a new battery after all! Don't fall into my trap.

STOP PRESS - problem identified! @skipperT - Wanting to be thorough and rule out all possibilities before buying a new starter motor and getting into a tear down of the bike, I thought I'd use the time proven crow-bar method of bridging the terminals of the starter solenoid to rule that out as a possible problem as per your suggestions. This pic is out of the service manual - First, I tried again with the starter button/switch and got the now familiar solenoid 'thunk' as it activates but still no starter action. Repeated that a couple of times to be sure it was consistent - it was. Ignition off. Next, my oldest pair of combination pliers were used to bridge the terminals on the solenoid. Amid a shower of sparks (followed immediately by another shower in my drawers) the starter was cranking hard. After I cleaned up, I repeated the activity a couple of times with the same result - minus the earlier drawers incident. 😉 Just to be sure, I tried the starter button again and just got the same thunk but no starter. So, just goes to show that even while the solenoid sounded fine and was activating, it appears that it must be burnt out at the contacts inside. This now explains why I was getting the occasional no-start symptom that I've mentioned in other posts and that always puzzled me but wasn't a consistent occurrence so I (foolishly) ignored it - till now. Thinking I'll get this third party one for $28 delivered (apparently it is compatible with the OEM part 2PP-81940-00). OEM part is around AU$67 before shipping. Thanks for your inputs.

OK, but it looks like you've been redirected to a US equivalent as that's not the same as the link I've posted. Also the seller's name is different? Same part though. Anyway, I've found another third party equivalent for AU$138 (after discount) delivered from the bay of Es that should do the job if mine proves to be faulty which is looking increasingly likely.😞 I could buy 4 of these for the cost of the OEM part!! Worst part is I've got to remove 'everything' first to get at the bloody thing! Looks like I'll be doing my major service earlier than expected. Certainly can't risk going anywhere anyway as it is ATM.

I'm really hoping that the starter is not the issue.... check out the price of a new one!!! That's AU $. Ouch! If it is at fault, I think I'll have a crack at repair. Did I say ouch! EDIT:- Just found this replacement. A BIT better at 'only' $290.

What's your first impressions of the Michelin Road 6's?

Yes, good tip. I can probably do that at the solenoid end of that cable - just for ease of access.