jthayer09

Unfortunately, despite all the wonderful things about the Dominator HP8 EX it has a fatal flaw for me in the volume and drone below 5K rpm. Even with the DB killer in it's a loud one, and the drone makes it not enjoyable in town while running errands or just going out and never going more than 40MPH. I've replaced it with the Akrapovic Carbon Racing, which is noticeably more quiet below 5K rpm: I really like the Dominator's looks and performance, the quality is fantastic, and sounds amazing when going for purely recreational rides. A bit sad it couldn't quite nail down the low speed acoustics. If anyone is interested in purchasing the Dominator exhaust feel free to DM me, I will also clean it up and make a post in the classified sections with pictures.

I had 2 Wheel Dyno Work's ECU flash on my 2015 FJ-09; benefits across the board: Smoother throttle with better response Cooler engine running temp (fans turn on earlier) Top speed limiter removed Smoother engine braking (this one was probably the largest difference) Startup on A mode As far as a quiet exhaust note the stock exhaust is going to be the quietest. However, I had the LeoVince LV1 full exhaust system with the DB killer in, and it was not much louder than stock but had a better bass sound that I found very pleasing.

Finally picked up some protection and decided on an aftermarket exhaust. Evotech engine and front axle sliders, radiator guard, and a Denali Sound Bomb mini. Dominator HP8 EX Exhaust with medium silencer: I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Dominator; especially at the price of roughly $620 delivered. I've always had Yoshimura or LeoVince on my bikes and was expecting a 2nd class product for what the Dominator cost. But the welds are great and the install is super simple. Noticeable improvement in acceleration above 7K RPM. I'm past due for 6K service so now I'm trying to decide between sending my ECU to 2WDW or Vcyclenut for the flash when I have the bike apart to check throttle bodies.

Do you ride with a top box or the sidecases? With the sidecases I average about 40 MPG. Taking them off and riding with the top box only shoots it up to 45mpg average. The sidecases definitely have a significant amount of drag that impacts MPG.

Ugh, RevZilla again publishing in their review that the side cases can't fit a full face helmet when it's just user error. They did the same with their previous Tracer 9 review and Daily Rider video. Lazy journalism. My XL HJC RPHA 70ST fits no problem; helmet goes in the sidecase upsidedown.

That is going to ultimately be the solution. But I'm of the opinion that a $15K motorcycle shouldn't require new springs for a 185lb rider, that's within adjustable range. I think my takeaway is that it feels like Yamaha is artificially limiting the suspension performance of the bike by only giving us two electronic presets; there should be more range of adjustment. I never had an issue with the FJ09. Sure after installing a custom suspension setup to exactly suit my weight was much better. But I didn't have an issue using the stock parts until they were worn by just dialing everything up. Sidenote: I'll be in your neighborhood to do OH-555 the first or second weekend of September 🤘

After 2 years with my T9GT I still stand by my statement about the suspension that "it's the best compromise you'll ever make". It's 90% of the performance of the Ohlins setup I had on my 2015 FJ09 but the addition of being able to change damping at the press of a button is amazingly convenient. However, I cannot get the front sorted out to my liking. I am 185lbs so I'm not much heavier than who these bikes are designed for. Sag is set properly, the rear is compliant, but like @The Pilot mentioned from Motorcyclist magazine above, the front does start to squirm a little bit when you are really pushing hard. The problem with the GT is that there are only 2 presets for damping: "comfort" and "sport". Comfort is fine for what it's designed for, but sport isn't quite stiff enough when you really want to carve corners. There needs to be a 3rd "track" setting at the very least or there should be granular control over damping instead of just 2 presets. That being said, if the base model Tracer 9 were offered in the US I would have bought that instead of the GT and put my own suspension and luggage on it. My primary riding buddy has a '22 Superduke 1290 with the fully active suspension including auto-leveling, anti-dive, full electronic adjustment of preload, rebound, etc; I envy him. I looked at the manual and service of the shocks and forks don't look any different than a traditional setup other than disconnecting more wires and then running the calibration tool from the settings on the bike.

Adding to this: Lip/spoiler may be required when riding with a passenger. In a recent experience the turbulent air from my taller windshield just gets dumped behind me into my lady's face; she complained a lot over the intercom anytime we got up to highway speed. Obviously this will be dependent on your passenger, my lady is the same height as me. So if air is clearing my helmet it is basically just striking her in the face. The lip seems to move the stream of air so it just barely hits her forehead and also breaks up the air enough it is has less force by the time it reaches her. I've been using a $20 eBay knock-off for the past few years and just swap it between the windscreens when I need to change based on the season.

+1 for the Peak Design mount. The case for my Pixel 7 is perfect and has full compatibility with Apple's Magsafe line and other magnetic accessories if you're into that. Placing the phone on the mount doesn't require anything other than letting the magnets pull to "connect". No twist to lock, no rubber bands, no adjusting a tension spring; just place the phone. The mount itself has a latching mechanism that locks the phone in so we're not just trusting the magnets. The release is two buttons on either side underneath the mount, easy with one gloved hand. It's the first mount I've ever owned that requires zero fiddling with. Only problem is cost of entry, but all Peak Design products carry a lifetime warranty.

Sounds like something might be off. While the brakes on the FJ09/Tracer aren't the absolute best they shouldn't be noticeably bad outside of a 2-up fully loaded situation. Stock pads are perfectly capable for the machine. I'd bleed the lines to be sure there's no air in the system and replace the pads without a second thought. Piece of mind for your brakes working and your safety is priceless.

Dropping a quick update after 500mi on the Kenda KM1s. They're solid, and remind me a lot of the Bridgestone T30 Evo in performance. Definitely leans on the sport side of "sport touring" with soft and grippy rubber, and they seem to be more v-shaped than the T32s with easier turn-in. Chicken strips are acceptably lean from riding public roads, on back roads I'm able to corner with my personal rule of signage speed limit x2 +10mph with full confidence: I hate using chicken strips as a measure, but short of making a video with a lean-angle tracker this is probably the only quantitative way I have to show these are acceptable tires. Haven't been caught out during a rainstorm yet, but no issues riding wet roads after. As of this writing they're at 4.7/5.0 stars on Amazon out of 234 reviews and the price is up to $178.96 for a set. Nothing bad to say about these right now. Will see where we're at after I get a few thousand miles underneath these.

Perfect timing, was just cleaning out my garage and I have my leftover top case + sidecases from the old FJ09: I have a V47 top case with the brake light kit installed. NOTE: I don't have the wiring harness that connects to the wiring in the bike, you'd have to find that or email Givi and see if they're willing to send you out that piece of the kit . Keyed to match V37 sidecases below. A pair of the V37 sidecases that are keyed to match the V47 top case. NOTE: I have and will include the inner liner bags in sale. Also a Givi Outback 42 for if you want the guaranteed waterproof on a rainy day. The V37 use Givi's rapid release holders which I think are pretty snazzy: you can take the entire racks off the bike in a minute with a single tool when you know you're just going out for a joy ride. For the Tracer 900 the side case holders are PLXR2139, rear rack for is SR2139. DM me if you you're interested and want pictures. The Outback 42 has some stickers from my travels, the V37 have a little bit of wear on them from catching bugs and small stones. The V47 is pretty clean. I know I'm not technically in Canada but I am about 90 minutes from Detroit so I thought I'd mention it if you felt like making the drive to meet up or if shipping ends up not being a huge cost since the distance isn't that great.

The Tracer is lean compared to other sport touring bikes, less than 500lbs wet weight; I think that's what most of us Tracer riders took into account vs other options. Also, the new 2021+ CP3 engine makes torque super low, like 3000RPM it comes online and is very convenient vs having to wring out an inline-4. I think those two characteristics are something a spec sheet can't tell you, gotta ride it and feel if it's for you. The Ninja 1000 is lovely and would be my bike of choice but insurance still classifies it as a super sport/liter bike instead of sport touring... ends up being like $1600-2100/year depending on provider for me to insure vs the $300/year I pay for the T9. If Kawasaki could work with insurance providers to properly classify the Ninja 1000 I think it'd be the dominant bike in the segment.

On a motorcycle I'd be inclined to believe how we interact with/toggle ACC is going to make or break it. There's already varying opinions of buttons vs scroll wheel on motorcycle forums - including this one - and it's going to be yet another thing to fiddle with. I think it's a good feature; and I use it when available when traveling for work in rentals, but there's definitely a "I can't be bothered" aspect if it requires multiple button presses or scroll wheel selections to turn on and adjust the gap/follow distance. Nissan's ACC is pretty damn simple to use if I remember correctly: dedicated steering wheel buttons for each function so you didn't have to navigate through menus or highlight different buttons on the dash. Never had to take hands off the wheel or eyes off the road.

Wow, that's a great price on the Dominator, and it sounds good in their video. However, the header pipes hang lower than other vendor's exhausts though. Noticeably lower than stock and MIVV: I really like it, but it could mess with skid plate fitment. Also didn't realize how much clearance is actually gained by the Mivv system; not only vertically but the header pipe slant is nearly flush with the front fairing angle. Might wait to buy after this winter season, see what other designs come out.

As others have stated unless you're willing to cut and weld yourself you have to purchase a full system which costs more and usually is accompanied by getting a tune. However, what's your definition of expensive? Because the Mivv is very affordable for a full system: https://www.motostorm.it/en/accessories/exhaust/kit-exaust-mivv-oval-titan-euro-5-tracer-9-2022.html

I was supposed to take the bike into the dealer today but the CEL turned off when I took it for a ride this past Sunday on the weekly start up and ride around the town. Bike runs perfectly now, 3 hour round-trip jaunt and nothing noticeably wrong and the CEL didn't come back on. I'm going to leave the code in in case the CEL comes back on again and I do need to take it to the shop; they said hold-off on bringing it in since without the CEL on they can't warranty anything. Seems weird to me. If I had left the bike on a tender/trickle charger then I would've chalked it up to low battery voltage throwing a sensor (throttle position sensor specifically) off. But I let the bike sit on it's own except for the weekly ride to keep fluids moving; I haven't charged it at all. So I have zero frame of reference for why the issue happened and how it fixed itself. I am hypothesizing static build up somewhere in the harness or at the throttle position coupler. I previously read either here or on the MT09 forums someone said detaching the throttle position coupler and spraying some contact cleaner onto it turned off their CEL with the same code I posted. This was actually the same cure for an amplifier I own with a very noisy pot that would build up static over time. Might do that when I open the bike up for 6K check. Strange things.

More frequent oil changes and filter changes can only benefit the bike unless you're making some sort of huge human error while doing it. My two cents is that oil filters for these bikes are so cheap that why not just change it every time you change the oil for peace of mind? That being said it's not required if you're trying to pinch pennies, or have the oil but didn't order the filter and don't want to wait. It won't hurt anything to change the filter every other oil change per the manual.

I saw that previously. However, many of those prices have been jacked up to the point it costs more than shipping from the UK: Rear hugger for $99.95? vs. $49.52 USD direct from the UK via Royal Mail: Over 100% markup... 😲 Even if you order something that requires Parcelforce it's still cheaper from the UK: Spray guard for $228 vs. $215.13 USD direct from the UK via Parcelforce: EDIT: Yeeeeesh the shock shield is $100 on motomachines vs $49.52 USD direct from the UK: Not sure where Motomachines went wrong on their pricing agreement with Pyramid Plastics. It almost seems like they're ordering retail and just reselling rather than being an actual distributor with a vendor agreement.

Trend has been revision every 3-years yeah? 2015-2017 was 1st gen FJ09 2018-2020 was 2nd gen Tracer 900 2021-curent is 3rd gen Tracer 9 I'd expect the next revision to be 2024 as this generation would run through 2023 mechanically. I might be misremembering but I think 2017 got the slipper clutch upgrade so we can hope maybe an incremental upgrade for 2023 happens to fix some kinks.

Right, that's how I feel too. The bike is wonderful on paper but it feels like QC may not have been up to usual JP standards. Unfortunately clearing my code and going for a ride did not fix; it came back almost immediately. P2135 code in the service manual has the possible cause of malfunction: defective throttle position coupler --> short in the harness between coupler and ECU --> improperly installed throttle position sensor --> malfunctioning ECU. Normally I'm one to do all of the work on my machine except valves, but at 4,500mi it's the principle that this should be on Yamaha, especially since the last time (and only time) my bike was opened up was to get the 2 recalls done at the dealership: ECU flash and throttle. The ECU recall specifically: "Improper electronic control unit (ECU) programming may limit the throttle response, cause an engine stall, or fail to illuminate the engine warning light when a system error occurs". Hopefully Yamaha owns this, I just had a great experience with Honda in that they replaced the AC on my '17 Civic at no cost to me with a 10-year warranty.

Funny... I got code P2135 which is also throttle voltage related, I cleared it and will see if it comes back. PSA: the '21 and newer Tracer models use the new Euro5 6-pin connector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T98XMLX?psc=1 If anyone is curious this $25 scanner from Amazon is what I used to read and clear my code: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?psc=1 I used Torque Lite (free) on Android but it looks like it hasn't been updated in a while - maybe the paid version is up to date? I may fork out the $5 to buy OBDFusion which gets great reviews on some car forums I frequent.

Agreed, there are compromises made with the Tracer that will never make it a primary two-up machine. The new Tracer 9 revision gets more payload capacity and a little bit more leg room for the passenger the expense of the driver. But ultimately if 2up riding is your priority there are longer and heavier bikes that'll do the job with comfort to spare.

Was hoping it was just a loose connection but no. Checked everything, negative terminal was slightly loose, tightened it and went for a ride and I still have the sputtering/hesitation. I'll be getting a an OBD2 reader and the adapter cable and see what I can do on my own before I hit up the dealer. My butt tells me it's a misfire so I may just go ahead and order new spark plugs anyway.

Getting back into the spirit of the thread topic, Did a 500mi round-trip yesterday and I'm unhappy to report that my check engine light came on and I started getting hesitation/sputtering between 3,500-5,000 RPM. I'm at 4,500mi currently so haven't even made it to the first service interval... to the dealer she goes 😟.