Lone Wolf

Then what? Were you able to ride it home (normally)? Never happened to me. That is pucker-city.

If Money isn't tight - that would be a great choice. Not that much more than the MRA lip. It is a complete solution, with lip installed.

Have you tried a "Lip"? There are knockoffs for $30 on Amazon and Ebay that clip onto the windscreen and work well for me. They pull the air up and over your helmet, I have clean air yet the windscreen remains low enough that it is not in my view beyond 30 to 40 feet of the bike. I am also 5' 8". MRA makes a good deflector for more $. The knock-offs can require modification.

I would think that the actual air pressure would vary with temperature (as opposed to effecting the electronics) My Tahoe sensors may read low on a cold morning and normalize after 5 minutes of travel, warming things up. Never used tire pressure sensors on a motorcycle. Makes a lot of sense though.

OK so those use a sensor that attaches to the valve stem. The OEM sensors for Yamaha, BMW, Honda Gold Wings, and cars are inside the tire (internal sensor). Although I have never heard of a leaking external sensor - it just makes me a bit nervous. Like it could leak at the threads, or against the face of the (metal) valve stem. Normally when a tire has air pressure, that pressure pushes the valve closed at the end of the valve stem. As I understand it, the Sykik, FOBO, and similar ones push the valve core and read the pressure. Have you folks ever had that connection leak? Do you spray it with soapy water, and if no leak you are good until a bit of air needs to be added and you pull the sensor off the valve stem?

This isn't your bike - but a decent orientation to clutch adjustment

Gravity is your friend. Loosen pinch bolts on one side, and let the weight of the bike help move the triple clamps down a bit on the fork. Snug those pinch bolts up a little, and then let the other side down. Be prepared to fine-tune the result. Make sure everything is aligned OK and even both sides, then finish tighten.

Visualize always wearing riding boots. Why not? Lot's of crash videos include peoples shoes coming off, which is gross, but your feet deserve protection as much as your head. You can buy expensive motorcycle boots with tall soles, or try a less expensive option like Chippewa Logger Style boots. They are a pain in the ass to lace up, but have a lot of protection for the money and would definitely remain in place during a crash. I would do that before dramatic suspension changes. In the meantime you could drop the forks a small amount and reduce rear preload a bit and see if that is enough.

My best guess is M10 x 1.25 That is the size I put on a Honda a few years ago, Revzilla says that is the size for Japanese bikes. Revzilla is out of stock, but Spiegler has them. Partzilla does not specify the size of that banjo bolt, but they list it for a ton of Yamaha motorcycles, same part number Yamaha 90401-10172-00 BOLT, UNION

Placing these banjo bolts with bleeder has helped me on various bikes, placed where top hose meets master cylinder or anywhere you want to bleed. Spiegler.

1) Apply brake does not move the axle forward, to establish chain slack B4 tighten axle 2) Hand pressure (rotate rear wheel with soft aluminum sprocket jammer, or screwdriver, rag, etc.) will force the rear axle forward against the stops. If you DON'T do this, the axle can creep forward after the adjustment is done. 3) The slight strain of using a sprocket jammer during chain adjustment is nothing compared to the strain that a motorcycle engine puts on that chain. Rewatch the video posted above.

I see. I don't have the 2022 model, but if you are happy with your chain slack, and alignment, I would leave it as is.

OK, sounds like you just didn't have the wheel shoved forward enough. That is what the sprocket jammer is for. Some people use a screwdriver, an open end wrench. Just put some tension by pushing the wheel around by hand, doesn't take a lot of force.

Did you get the axle shoved forward with a jammer (or screwdriver between chain and sprocket). If that's not it - the soft aluminum deformed

Wow that was a thorough write up comparing the bikes. Had to find their web site - interesting that it is BMW only. Sounds like a great place.

Like Tom, I don't do it when moving. If I am feeling cold putting my gear on... that is the time to flip the switch.

To be clear, the bike is not cranking and starting with the new battery right now? What is the voltage reading on the new battery? (expect @ 12.8)

Only 3,000 miles on the bike - how did you determine the part was bad? Let's say a battery has low voltage (below 12) or is near end of life and just doesn't have the balls to crank the engine. In that case it would be "normal" to hear a click from solenoid, because it is doing it's job of making a connection for the big heavy wire circuit to deliver maximum amps to the starter from the battery, after receiving a signal from the comparatively small wires coming from the starter switch. Same thing can happen if one of the connections is not tight and clean. It is common on motorcycles and cars to hear a "click" when you try to start it up but it doesn't crank. When everything is working as it should you don't hear that click because the sound of cranking and running engine are more prominent. Exactly. I would suspect a loose connection (after trying multiple batteries). Doesn't mean to replace the solenoid unless it is bad, which would be rare on low mile vehicle.

Do you have a voltmeter? Odd such low miles... cuz manifests like bad connection. https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-battery

If it is a Duralast AGM you should be fine. I got 8 years out of Duralast AGM on one of my bikes, just replaced with Yuasa AGM.

I blew a fuse on the factory DC socket with heated vest. It's a very low amp circuit, I think 3 amps intended for charging data devices like GPS or phone. Fuse is behind front fairing, not under the seat. Here's a thread where someone blew that fuse trying to run a small compressor, and the solution is to hard wire an SAE connection such as battery tender (or Optima)

Just did that and hit the wall. Looked at the details of the route properties, Basecamp "loses" the shaping points when it converts a track to a route. The route will appear OK on your computer screen in Basecamp, but if you dig deep into the properties of your route, the shaping points are gone and on the road your route is likely to be A to B, straight to destination. The bombproof solution is to import a track (which visually appears on Basecamp map) and create a route, in basecamp, that follows that track. Of course there are challenges even creating a route in Basecamp because it has such a chaotic menu (like confetti). But ultimately the 2 Garmin products (Basecamp and the Garmin GPS) speak the same language and play well together. Garmin just came out with the Zumo XT2 last week, slightly bigger screen 6" and USB C cable connect to computer rather than the archaic cables Garmin has used for so many years.

As you know, Garmin Basecamp is free to download. Free is about what it is worth, as most people can't figure it out. Not intuitive, very archaic menu interface with tons of great features that you can't find because they are not obvious. This guy seems to have made his life's mission to help people use Basecamp and import the result to your GPS. This video will answer your question, then i would suggest look at this guy's videos he did in the last 12 months because he has simplified the explanations. Most people use Google navigation, but when you are SHAPING a route (not just going A to B) you must get good at shaping points. It can be done "within" the GPS trip planner (drag and shape routes) but that small screen often won't have the street detail unless super zoomed in, then you can't see the big picture. Basecamp on a big screen computer is the solution, but it has driven many people to drink unless you commit a weekend to deep learning. By the way, if you go deep into this subject, you will find MANY people who only use Basecamp to import a route, and transfer it to GPS then walk away. But you will have occasional glitches that could be avoided if you master Basecamp and closely inspect the route on "playback" and make sure it isn't sticking in U-turns, or a shaping point off the road in someone's driveway.

Did you locate it on your bike, or find one to buy? Was it actually missing?

They have a kit for that, enabling attachment to something other than the swingarm pivot bolt The Swing arm removal kit is a universal kit made to work in conjunction with the abba Superbike Stand & Sky Lift for removal of the Swing-Arm. The kit works by removing your original foot rest hanger bolts on both sides of your bike, the swing arm removal kit then bolts directly to the bike frame in the foot rest hanger position with the bolts supplied (8mm thread). Once fitted the superbike stand/Sky lift will then locate on the swing arm removal kit. This will then give you full access to the swing arm pivot bolt so the swing-arm can be completely removed. When lifting in this way the whole bike can be disassembled down to the bare frame.