Lone Wolf

When I changed my seals, I dumped the quarter century old fork oil and put in Maxima 10 Weight and noticed much less flacid. Doesn't halt the brake drive, but better. I think that year had drain plugs at the bottom of the fork legs, they made that bike for 13 years and the "newer" ones lost the drain screw. If you are selling the bike I would not replace the signals. The rubber things always fail on those bikes. Some wrap the failed area with a cut section of water bottle, milk jug, then wrap that in black duct tape and it looks factory if the tape seam is on the bottom (and the repair actually lasts). I went through 3 sets of aftermarket signals, put in LED resistors, still had hyperflash due to the blinker display on instrument panel - had to get different flasher unit. The first 2 sets of signals were much less visible than the OEM, the 3rd set was OK. I did the "tape trick" initially, and if I had to do it over again i would have kept the stock ones.

Right. When I go back and forth to my Nighthawk, the lack of agility is very apparent. I have a soft spot for it - but even back when they were available for sale the magazines referred to it as "boring".

I still have my '93 Nighthawk 750. You should not need to mess with the jetting (other than clean, including nylon guitar string to ensure fully open passage). Simply riding them, adding seafoam (etc.) if borderline due to being stored will often clear out the gunk. Sounds like yours runs fairly well. With stock pipes, stock cams and carb, there is no improvement in changing jet size. These bikes need 3/4 choke to start, and within 20 seconds the rev's will climb from 1,000 to 2,000 and you cut the choke to 1/2. By the time your gear is on, it should be ready to ride. I fully cut the choke after riding a couple blocks. If it only runs well at higher RPM, even after fully warmed up, the smaller pilot jets are clogged. Do not increase idle speed to compensate for that - it is a symptom. The front brake is terrible on these bikes. EBC pads made the biggest difference for me (HH) and I was able to lock up the front wheel (brief squeal, then release). Braided steel lines did not really result in noticeable change. Do not run shorty levers, you actually need the full leverage of a full length brake lever with these weak brakes. I moved the lever assembly to the left 1/2" or so to place my fingers on the outer part of the lever, to get more stopping power. they are that bad. Sure they work, and seem "OK" but if you practice panic stops (gradually build up to full) you see how bad they are, especially if the pads get glazed. My brakes have been fully bled many times, and I do get a firm, non-spongy brake. That isn't the issue, they are simply weak. The 18" front rim is a challenge to find tires. A lot of mfg stopped making that size, but Avon Spirit (softer-grippy) or Avon Storm XM (longer life) have the exact stock size. You have to go to a 150 rear instead of 140, no one notices the difference. The Avon's have had supply chain issues this year. I have gone through several sets, they are great tires for this bike and yes you can run radials (OEM was bias ply). No one has issues with the radials.

Just saw that on their web site - so maybe it will soften up some. I would suggest the "re-do" top layer foam because it is within that new purchase window of time. It isn't going to change a lot, but apparently some. https://www.corbin.com/general/box7.shtml

Don't expect the foam to break in, or change much. I have a 12 year old Corbin on one of my bikes and the foam is dense, nothing soft about it. I did a 4 hour ride recently to rent an MT-07 for a week to see if I want to buy one (riders share). The MT-07 stock seat was MUCH SOFTER than the corbin, but flat as a board and the "sit bones" felt like they bottomed out within an hour, and were so sore after the 4 hour ride through twisties back home that my bones felt bruised. Having the stock MT-07 for a week was a bummer because long rides were so uncomfortable. I did ride out to Big Sur, and some other long rides - hating the seat. When I got on my old bike, the Corbin was like invisible. No attention on the seat at all. The reason is because my weight is distributed across an area larger than my "sit bones" that eventually bottom out through soft foam over a bad shape. What I am learning on this thread is to specify softer foam for my next corbin, with their "famous" shape, which for me would be best of both worlds. I am skinny and do not have much natural padding. https://www.corbin.com/general/box6.shtml

I static balance. The only reason I use "Ride On" sealant is to protect against flats. But it does also get distributed and balances the tire. As someone who changes their own tires, my result is exactly like this video. The sealant stays put where it needs to protect against nails and screws on the road. You put the static-balanced wheel on the bike, orient the valve stem to about 4 oclock and pull the core out of the valve stem. You squirt the "ride on" in and it goes onto the tire, none of it touches the rim. After about 1 minute of riding the stuff is distributed to the outer tire. The instructions say you can use the product without static balance, without weights - but you put more product into the tire if it wasn't balanced first (with weights). Again I don't use the product to balance, but it will fine-tune the balancing I do with weights. When the tire is worn out and you remove it, there will not be one drop of sealant on the rim and the product does not "run" or move. You can poke at it and make a dent, but it is not wet or moving around at all. In the next video they run over nails, and I have pulled a nail out of my tire with this stuff installed and it did not lose air (days later I plugged it just for peace of mind). I use this stuff as a bit of insurance not to get stranded somewhere, in addition to a portable compressor and plugs just in case.

Did they sell you a bad battery? How could a new battery be completely dead at the shop. New batteries may not be FULL charge, but shouldn't act like that.

Those are the lessons we truly learn - and I would trust you. You will trust you. Crashing sucks, but we have to reframe our misfortunes and heal up.

Check the balance on your tires, easy if you have a static balancer. As a tire wears, looses rubber, can become out of balance. One of the reasons new / balanced tires feel so smooth. Does the front tire look like it is near end of life?

Craigs List 2 years ago, put "T-nuts" in the plywood so I can bolt it on. It comes off the plywood and stores pretty well. Paid $225 for mine used. Watch a lot of NoMar videos and you will be a champ

Tire is out of balance. Easy to check if you have a static balancer, if not pull the front wheel and just have a shop check it. I have had that happen more than once, usually on older tires. Can cause a really bad speed wobble, and for me it went away with new tires / balance. Obviously they wear, lose rubber, can become out of balance. That is one if the reasons new tires feel so smooth, if they are balanced Your bike is low miles, not enough time for bearings to get jacked unless it hit something

With your own insurance (not the Deer's) they can exert that control. When it is the OTHER PERSON (at fault) Insurance, they are simply paying for damages in exchange for a Release of All Claims. Unless there is a loan on the vehicle and the lender puts conditions on repairs - no one has the right to tell him what to do with the money. It is an exchange for damages, regardless if the vehicle ever gets repaired or by who.

I haven't had the need personally - but if you are stranded and have a LARGE puncture, the guidance is to keep stuffing ropes in the opening. If it held air I would get back home (slowly) and replace that tire if it needed more than one rope to seal it.

I agree those Nealy products are great quality, As for the "Safety Seal" any of the "Auto/Light Truck" kits are great. I got this one, you don't need 1,000 ropes https://safetyseal.com/product/kapc30/ I don't use the red case, just make it compact with zip lock bags. You must have a variety of pliers including very narrow ones (I have a "hemostat" as well) to grab small nails that have worked their way into the tire, soapy solution (2 small bottles) and chalk to mark where you found the leak so you can find that area again to put soap on it later in the day and make sure it's not got a small leak. So far I have never had a repair leak, but mine have been pretty clean punctures, usually with the screw or whatever still in the tire

the cheap ones sold everywhere (slime, etc.) will work - but I prefer these ones https://safetyseal.com/ I have repaired 3 flats on motorcycles with them, and 4 on cars-trucks. Most of the time it is a very small puncture, and the safety seal has a smaller diameter rope, and a normal size. The "worms" / "string" is coated with a much more sticky - tacky substance than on the cheap ones. they are very "gooey" and there is no question that they are going to form a good seal. The amount of force to shove one of those things in is amazing, and I have broken the cheap plastic handles on the econo kits. The smaller diameter rope, better tool, and the white lube stuff that comes with the kit make it doable. I have the kits in 3 vehicles. I totally trust the repair and ride the tires until worn out.

A military officer told me how they train for Situational Awareness. Decide what you would do in a given situation (like incoming fire) Determine that the situation is occurring Deliver the plan you had in place for this situation They call it the "3 D's". It reduces the wasted time of "oh shit - now what?" With the example of the original post, I would (hopefully) see the approaching vehicle in a rear view mirror. Have the plan in place to swerve, quickly move over a short distance. KNOW that countersteering works, and gently push the grip on the side you want to move toward. The plan would include checking the space you want to move to - other vehicles or edges of the road. Know your exit strategy. Do it, and keep your cool. Be in control, as long as you are alive and breathing you need to be in control to the extent you can.

That was good, and that article linked to another that I found even more helpful 12 Ways to Ride Cool

OK, it is starting to sink in. I just went for a ride at 100 degrees wearing my usual mesh, and noticed I had some sweat along my back. Everything else was bone dry, and I became very thirsty even though I drank twice as much water as yesterday. That was an interesting article, because if it is simply warm outside the mesh can work. I rode in the 80's a couple days ago and could feel the evaporative cooling across my chest. Not today at 100 degrees. I may look into these Motorcycle Cooling Vests - RevZilla Motorcycle Cooling Vests - Free Shipping, No Hassle...

How's that working for you? Better without the mesh? That diagram shows you have to perspire twice as much to maintain the same skin temperature - however I was curious about real world experience with that. It seems if you sweat a lot in mesh and it evaporates, you would get more cooling than being wrapped up like a tamale. I have ridden in heat both ways and seemed to prefer the mesh, but maybe I need to do more, like moistened underlayers or something.

Good work. You can order chain at the length needed so you don't have to cut it (like you needed 110 links, bought 114). I may have done the same thing though, adding a tooth to the rear - making sure you have enough chain to keep the axle in the sweet spot for adjustment, see how it actually fits and remove links as needed. That is a fantastic chain - it will last a long time.

Perfect. Yours look identical to the RK Chain suggested flare photo. (I use DID chain as well). It really doesn't take a lot of flare to retain the side plate, so the calipers are vital to know when to stop.

I followed this video, bought the calipers and shocked how affordable they were (local hardware stores have them) Also - before you flare a master link rivet you need to pay close attention to how the side plate is positioned. They don't just "slip on over the pins", there is a degree of friction and they are gently pressed into place with the chain tool. You make your best guess on how tight to press on the side plate (after apply lube to the pins and inner surfaces, O-rings for that master link). Then you LOOK at it, with magnify glass and make sure there are no gaps, and the side plate is up against the O-rings like the neighboring links. Then you move the links a bit by hand, to see if that master link moves easily, is it too tight and binding. It should bend with some resistance, like it's neighbors. If you just throw the side plate on and flare the rivets, you can make a poor fitting side plate "locked in" permanently One last thing, there are a lot of different chain tools and they all work, but they can be very different from each other. You need to be absolutely certain that the tool's back plate is positioned so that it "captures" the back side of the pin you are flaring. Those tools are also used to "break" a chain by pushing out the pin, and if you aren't watching you could push the pin out of place that you are trying to flare. The following image is from RK chains

Can he replace the cylinder head, leave the rest alone?

Did you decide not to involve the dealer "that last touched it"? I know it is a holiday weekend - but when they open up I would see if they can help. If you take them to small claims court, it looks good to involve them early rather than just hit them with a bill at the end. Clearly you did not cause this mess. I suppose you would have a more solid claim if you were there customer (as you didn't own the bike when the "work" was done).

Dry chain with grinding paste = worse. I use the Scottoiler (vacuum system, the cheaper one). It uses one drop of oil per minute, only when the engine is running. It does what their literature says, flings off small amounts of oil and along with that will be road grime, dirt. Ever since I hooked that thing up my chain always looks clean, slightly shiny (oiled) and I have zero concern about my O-rings drying out and cracking apart as happened on an earlier bike. I do get some speckles of oil on the rim (none on tire) and it does cause some drips where I park (easily remedied with piece of cardboard). Again I am totally OK with the slight mess, because this is not an enclosed shaft drive and the chain needs as much care as it can get. In the 1970's I neglected a chain and had it fly off when I was accelerating onto the freeway. Maybe I am still overcompensating for my wicked past. I am lucky that chain came off the bike instead of breaking the engine case.