fjrpittsburgh

Trailering is a dirty word.

Good work! One of a kind. How difficult was it to work with the Plasti-Dip?

As far as the ignition key being in the little well, simply make a habit of turning the front wheel to the left before removing the key. Easy peasey.

Or buy a US model of the GT. 😉

Thanks @Larz I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Good work!

Is the bed liner available in black in the rattle can? That pic looks grey @Larz

Nice, but if the bike falls over on asphalt, most of the damage is done near the bottom of the side case. The rubber bumper wouldn't protect it at all. Maybe a rubber bumper along the bottom of the case would help some.

No biggie. A friend of mine dumped my GT on the asphalt on the right side. Busted the turn signal and severely scratched up the right side case. I bought everything I need to vinyl wrap both cases with 3M Di Noc carbon fiber. I also replaced the turn signal. In the meantime, I bought black gloss touch up paint at the local auto parts store. After touching up the case, it didn't look so good . At least I thought that way at first. It really doesn't look all that bad and isn't all that noticeable unless you're looking for it. I would touch it up with some black gloss paint and be done with it. Only your pride is hurt. That feeling goes away rather quickly. Best of luck!

With the bike in neutral or holding the clutch lever in, center the ball of your right foot on the center stand peg. Grab the left rear passenger grab rail with your right hand. Push down on the center stand until you feel the bike centered on the 2 legs. Stand on the center stand. You can stand on it comfortably. From this position, pull up on the rear grab rail and the bike will go up on the center stand so easily. My son who is shorter than I and weighs only 160 lbs, can put the GT on the center stand with ease. Many riders I've seen try to put the bike on the center stand with the bike in 1st gear. Definitely a no no unless you have the clutch lever pulled in. Just raise the bike onto the stand in neutral. Much easier that way. Adding another grab bar in another location is absolutely unnecessary and certainly isn't all that attractive IMHO. Give it another try. Certainly the easiest bike to get up on the stand that I've ever owned.

Hey @Coop They are nicely made. Since they are painted aluminum, I would recommend scuffing up the paint on the bottom of the extender that makes contact with the handlebar connection. The painted surface is very smooth and could spin over time. I scuffed mine up, smeared some Locktite on the scuffed up surface and on the bolt the attaches them to the handlebar. Tighten it well and let it set up. Then bolt the mirror to the extender a little while later. Mine have been solid as a rock using that method. Also you can't angle the left extender straight out to the left due to the traction control switch. However I angled the left extension, I repeated on the right side to balance out the look of it. Nice views to the rear.

Another fix is to tighten the mirrors from the stems after you have adjusted the mirrors swivel to the most rearward position. At that point, the mirrors can't blow back any further. You have to angle the stems more forward to have the mirrors aimed properly to the rear. Angling the stems more to the front does make the mirrors more to the center of the bike and limits the view to the rear some. I have mirror extenders I bought on amazon that help out quite a bit. https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Mirror-Extender-Adapter-Models/dp/B01KLOY6GI

I learned a trick for the actual mirror socket moving from the wind. You swivel the mirror to the extremes in all directions. Smear a little blue Loctite on the socket during each swivel. Adjust the mirror and allow the Loctite to set up. Problem solved.

At a steady 90 mph through the Texas winds, if your mirrors stay put, problems solved. Since working on my mirrors, they haven't budged.

I don't think speaking to someone is a reason not to do business with them. Especially since he is so well known for his excellent work on many different bikes. I've spoken to him twice now. He was very courteous and engaging. He comes across as very confident and straight forward. Some people may find that offensive, but I don't. In his defense, he talks to people all day and answers their repetitive questions over and over. He even offered that other folks had flashes completed when his wasn't ready. He said if you are in a hurry, you could give one of them a try. I told him that I knew of several riders who had their bikes flashed by him and I would wait for his finished product. He told me that if I didn't like his work, he would return the ECU to stock. Good guy. I know 3 riders who have had their FZ 900's flashed by him and said the bike's rideability was like night and day. Ivan is experienced with Yamaha's 900 triple. That's good enough for me. Others are pleased with their flashes from other companies. That's what makes the world go round.

No clue. You could call Ivan and ask. He's very helpful on the phone.

@sp0okz I haven't had time to send my ECU off to Ivan yet. I already know the review will be tremendous as are all of Ivan's reviews. There is no reading of the ECU to be done. You mail the ECU to Ivan in South Carolina and he sends it back to you flashed the same day he receives it.

I believe the swing arm is only 6 cm longer. Shouldn't add much weight. Maybe the side cases are the extra weight? I don't really know.

I remember a few years ago experiencing the additional weight phenomenon. Once balanced, they were still great though. Balancing has not been an issue recently. Read the reviews and give them a try if you like what you read.

I took my mirrors completely apart. I even took off the nut under the cap at the top which has the rivet protecting it from being removed. I don't recommend doing this, but I did get them back together eventually and used blue loctite on the threads when I cranked them back together as hard as I could. If they move from this point forward, and they haven't yet, I'm buying different mirrors without that top nut with the spring inside. It's a poor design for sure. I did file down a 10 mm socket for a 1/4 in ratchet until the socket fit in the hole to reach the nut. PITA. Hopefully I did something smart. If the mirror moves again, it wasn't' all that smart now was it? LOL

Plus it makes the bike too wide for tight spaces like going in and out of the garage with other bikes in there.

You'll get much more than 5k out of a rear Shinko Raven. The front tire seems to last forever. I keep 42 psi in the front and 40 psi in the rear. If you buy these tires, you'll buy them over and over again. I've read some folks posting that Shinko tires are junk. They have no idea what they're talking about. Trust me on this one.

@Larz Try the Shinko Raven front and rear. I do mostly sport touring, but also rip up the technical twisties at high speeds. I have never been disappointed. I buy the rear tire for $91 online, remove the rear wheel, and take it to my local shop to spin on the rubber and balance. You will not be disappointed,. Dry or wet conditions, you will love them. Great tire! I have over 200,000 miles of experience with these tires.

Shinko Ravens. I have them on all my bikes. Awesome tire and low price.

I would recommend these guys. Their batteries last for years. I'm a 4-peat customer for 4 different bikes. The replacement Yamaha 850CC FJ-09, 2015-2017 Motorcycle Battery (12V 8.6Ah) The replacement Yamaha 850CC FJ-09, 2015-2017 Motorcycle battery is...

@johnmark101 No cutting. No problem fishing the wire up to the battery. I like the Rearset Powerlet. I have one on my FJR also.