vijay

Dumb question here, I am sure, but owners manual is completely unclear. I can change time, but not AM To PM on my 2015

Betoney Three things really. 1. I have a 34 inch inseam (86.3cm). With the pivoting pegs I added just under 3/4 of an inch (almost 2cm) to my legroom. Comfort improvement was dramatic. 2. It allows me to reposition pegs slightly forward or back. Again HUGE plus for comfort. Allows me (with the revised seat) to do Saddlesore 1000's again. Which I love. 3. The pegs have a nice thick and flat rubber pad (front to back) which allows me to stand for as long as I want (when I need to move around a bit) without my feet slipping no matter how wet or cold it is. Which is much safer and more comfortable when I simply feel like standing for awhile. Those are the 3 primary reasons. Plus, there is one unintentional plus as well. Since the peg feelers are a bit shorter than on the stock pegs, I find if I do scrape pegs it is at about the same lean angle as before. I don't really scrape pegs all that much ... but not having to modify my riding style since the lean angles are about the same is quite nice from a rythem, pace and speed standpoint. Mr Betoney, I honestly do recognize that for many people those differences are minor and therefore pretty meaningless. But for my (aging) body with artificial hips and a right leg that has had 14 operations on it, the comfort improvements by the little things I did to my FJ have been truly remarkable. And since I absolutely love long cross country rides or just countryside rides they were necessary as well. Being able to ride straight through to e.g Rapid City or a Colorado Springs from my home in one go, and do so Very Comfortably, is truly a pleasure .... at least to me. I apologize for the "wordyness" of my reply. I hope it hasn't offended or bothered anyone. 🤔😊

FWIW, I did 3 things. Difference was absolutely huge: 1. Risers .... have short arms and long legs. 2. Had seat redone by Terry Adcox Seats. Looks and feels just like the Russel Day Long that was on my FJR and raised my ass up about an 1 inch or so. 3. Bought off Ebay a set of Pivoting Pegs. Not the brand name Pivot Pegs but some other manufacturer. Between those 3 items I've gone from in agony after 150 miles to several 500 miles days in absolute comfort.

You could always jury rig a small filter to put in the tank filler hole each time you pump gas if you are concerned about particulates in the gas/petrol.

Dazzler24 ... That is a fantastic price on the Michelin's. For some reason here in the U.S. the price for Michelin's is always much, much higher than Dunlop's or Bridgestones. On my FJR I always stuck with Pilot Roads. But for some unknown (to me) reason the FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer doesn't seem to be nearly as affected by which tire I use as my Gen 1 FJR.

I have used Conti's, T31 and RA3's. Truthfully, based on your post of your riding style I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. The mileage was pretty similar for me with all 3 tires at around 6,000 miles. Conti's a tiny bit longer wearing than the other 2. I will say that I really didn't care for how the RA2 wore at all ... but the new RA3 is much improved. Price wise, as mentioned by Betoney in an earlier post, the Bridgestone T31 is usually the best price for me with the Dunlop RA3 usually very close behind. 9x out of 10 Rocky Mountain ATV seems to have the best price.

Mine did. About 80% of the time the bike would just die after engaging CC. I contracted MCCruise and they told me to recalibrate and even emailed the specific pages (in case I lost mine) from their installation manual. Took me about 5-6 minutes to re-read the directions and then recalibrate. The directions to recalibrate are very specific and very easy to complete.

Just a question since you obviously know more about lubricants than I do. I use PB Blaster Penetrating oil on a lot of stuff here on the farm. It does a marvelous job on old seized bolts and corroded contacts etc. I've often thought that lubricating your chain with Penetrating Oil (like PB Blaster) and then using your regular chain lube might be very beneficial as PB Blaster Penetrating Oil does such a superb job in getting into nooks and Crannies to lubricate stuff. Is there any reason this would be a bad idea ... or is it just overkill?

Thank you for the courtesy of your reply. I apologize for taking so long to acknowledge it. From what you provided above, It almost sounds like you should install the O2 Sensor Eliminator on a stock machine as well. Is that part of what most of the ECM reprogramming people are doing?

Put it on a lift and let some politician start yakking. The hot air will dry your chain in not time!!!! Sorry, that was tasteless.

Probably a stupid question. But I am not a mechanic or even close to one. Why is it necessary to remove the O2 sensor? What is gained .... Acceleration? Smoothness? Will it stop error codes? Horsepower? Forgive my ignorance but I am curious about the benefit.

Me neither, I typically run with premium, but in the smaller towns where I ride, I'll fill with whatever I can get. Can't say I've noticed a difference I can attribute to the gas.That would make "Me 3". If there is a difference I haven't seen it ... whether it is power, acceleration, knocking or even Gas Mileage (with Non-Ethanol). With modern engines having Sensors, computers, ecm's etc. I was sort of under the impression if the Engine senses less than the recommended premium grade gas in the tank ... basically it just retards the timing a tiny bit. A "tiny bit" being the key phrase.

Cuff: If I could ask another question did they come with on/off switch? Not a big issue but would be nice to know.

Cuff: Really like the LED Light Bar. Do you have a link for it? Is it all Fog Lights are a mix? Brackets? Any suggestions are links appreciated. Thanks