vijay

Dumb question here, I am sure, but owners manual is completely unclear. I can change time, but not AM To PM on my 2015

Betoney Three things really. 1. I have a 34 inch inseam (86.3cm). With the pivoting pegs I added just under 3/4 of an inch (almost 2cm) to my legroom. Comfort improvement was dramatic. 2. It allows me to reposition pegs slightly forward or back. Again HUGE plus for comfort. Allows me (with the revised seat) to do Saddlesore 1000's again. Which I love. 3. The pegs have a nice thick and flat rubber pad (front to back) which allows me to stand for as long as I want (when I need to move around a bit) without my feet slipping no matter how wet or cold it is. Which is much safer and more comfortable when I simply feel like standing for awhile. Those are the 3 primary reasons. Plus, there is one unintentional plus as well. Since the peg feelers are a bit shorter than on the stock pegs, I find if I do scrape pegs it is at about the same lean angle as before. I don't really scrape pegs all that much ... but not having to modify my riding style since the lean angles are about the same is quite nice from a rythem, pace and speed standpoint. Mr Betoney, I honestly do recognize that for many people those differences are minor and therefore pretty meaningless. But for my (aging) body with artificial hips and a right leg that has had 14 operations on it, the comfort improvements by the little things I did to my FJ have been truly remarkable. And since I absolutely love long cross country rides or just countryside rides they were necessary as well. Being able to ride straight through to e.g Rapid City or a Colorado Springs from my home in one go, and do so Very Comfortably, is truly a pleasure .... at least to me. I apologize for the "wordyness" of my reply. I hope it hasn't offended or bothered anyone. 🤔😊

FWIW, I did 3 things. Difference was absolutely huge: 1. Risers .... have short arms and long legs. 2. Had seat redone by Terry Adcox Seats. Looks and feels just like the Russel Day Long that was on my FJR and raised my ass up about an 1 inch or so. 3. Bought off Ebay a set of Pivoting Pegs. Not the brand name Pivot Pegs but some other manufacturer. Between those 3 items I've gone from in agony after 150 miles to several 500 miles days in absolute comfort.

You could always jury rig a small filter to put in the tank filler hole each time you pump gas if you are concerned about particulates in the gas/petrol.

Dazzler24 ... That is a fantastic price on the Michelin's. For some reason here in the U.S. the price for Michelin's is always much, much higher than Dunlop's or Bridgestones. On my FJR I always stuck with Pilot Roads. But for some unknown (to me) reason the FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer doesn't seem to be nearly as affected by which tire I use as my Gen 1 FJR.

I have used Conti's, T31 and RA3's. Truthfully, based on your post of your riding style I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. The mileage was pretty similar for me with all 3 tires at around 6,000 miles. Conti's a tiny bit longer wearing than the other 2. I will say that I really didn't care for how the RA2 wore at all ... but the new RA3 is much improved. Price wise, as mentioned by Betoney in an earlier post, the Bridgestone T31 is usually the best price for me with the Dunlop RA3 usually very close behind. 9x out of 10 Rocky Mountain ATV seems to have the best price.

Mine did. About 80% of the time the bike would just die after engaging CC. I contracted MCCruise and they told me to recalibrate and even emailed the specific pages (in case I lost mine) from their installation manual. Took me about 5-6 minutes to re-read the directions and then recalibrate. The directions to recalibrate are very specific and very easy to complete.

Just a question since you obviously know more about lubricants than I do. I use PB Blaster Penetrating oil on a lot of stuff here on the farm. It does a marvelous job on old seized bolts and corroded contacts etc. I've often thought that lubricating your chain with Penetrating Oil (like PB Blaster) and then using your regular chain lube might be very beneficial as PB Blaster Penetrating Oil does such a superb job in getting into nooks and Crannies to lubricate stuff. Is there any reason this would be a bad idea ... or is it just overkill?

Thank you for the courtesy of your reply. I apologize for taking so long to acknowledge it. From what you provided above, It almost sounds like you should install the O2 Sensor Eliminator on a stock machine as well. Is that part of what most of the ECM reprogramming people are doing?

Put it on a lift and let some politician start yakking. The hot air will dry your chain in not time!!!! Sorry, that was tasteless.

Probably a stupid question. But I am not a mechanic or even close to one. Why is it necessary to remove the O2 sensor? What is gained .... Acceleration? Smoothness? Will it stop error codes? Horsepower? Forgive my ignorance but I am curious about the benefit.

Me neither, I typically run with premium, but in the smaller towns where I ride, I'll fill with whatever I can get. Can't say I've noticed a difference I can attribute to the gas.That would make "Me 3". If there is a difference I haven't seen it ... whether it is power, acceleration, knocking or even Gas Mileage (with Non-Ethanol). With modern engines having Sensors, computers, ecm's etc. I was sort of under the impression if the Engine senses less than the recommended premium grade gas in the tank ... basically it just retards the timing a tiny bit. A "tiny bit" being the key phrase.

Cuff: If I could ask another question did they come with on/off switch? Not a big issue but would be nice to know.

Cuff: Really like the LED Light Bar. Do you have a link for it? Is it all Fog Lights are a mix? Brackets? Any suggestions are links appreciated. Thanks

My experience is that when I added the 90 degree stems, I seem to be adding an extra 1/2 oz or so in wheel weights than before. The convenience is worth it. I was in Arkansas recently. Checked my tire pressure and my rear was about 2 lbs low. Went across the street to the gas station and their air pump chuck went straight in line with the hose; rather than an at angle. If I didn't have 90 degree stems I wouldn't have been able to fill the tire .. without a lot of work.

Just took my leftover 2015 I purchased about 11 months ago with just under 21,000 miles. I told the Service Manager at the Dealer ... who I trust and has always been honest with me ... that I had been reading a lot about the FJ09 and it's sister FZ09 and that the forums seem to indicate that the valves often run tight well before the factory 26,000 mile suggested interval. The Service Manager said he didn't follow the various Forums at all but that he was sure it was a waste of money. I finally told him "look it may be a waste of money but I want to go ahead have it done anyhow and I'm the one paying for it". Since I am only 5,000 miles out ... change the spark plugs and do a throttle body sync. He tried to talk me out of it again but finally said ..."it's your money" and took it in Monday. 3 exhaust valves we're all tight between (I think either)".002 and .004 or .02 and .04) and 2 intake valves were just barely tight. Their Yamaha Mechanic who doesn't work on any other of their brands (Honda and Kawi), refuses to do an "in spec/out spec" check. So all valves were set in spec and at same tolerances. I asked if it was enough to have caused damage and he said no and not to worry. Spark plugs were mildy dirty but not bad and he said the TB definitely needed syncing as one TB was pretty far out of sync. Got it back and it sure is smoother. Interesting thing is that as I was leaving the Service Manager came out to apologize to me (I"ve been going to them for my Yamaha's and Honda's for about 8 years). He said he talked to the Yamaha technician/mechanic and his comment was that CP3 engine, while a great engine, does have a tendency for the valves to get out of spec if you rev it high before changing gears. Which I have a tendency to do since so many of the people I ride with are ex racers etc. So FWIW, if you ride aggressively or have "high shift points", it is probably worth having them checked early. I'm glad I did. and an unsolicited apology/acknowledgement from the Service Writer was icing on the cake.

The dampened counter sprocket seems to make huge difference. I went with it on my new chain set from sprocket center and the extra 5.00(?) if memory serves me correctly was worth every cent.

Piotek: You are correct and I was unclear: You stated: Just to clarify... the VX is x-ring. I just put one on... stock lasted 30,000km. I expect that the new chain will go longer. I don't lube religiously, but do check and lube when I think it needs lubing, if that makes sense. Proper slack will help too. I should have said the DID 525 VX and the the EK 525 MVXC. As the recommended. I simply went with the approximately $80 more expensive chain as it was rated to a much higher horsepower ... and accordingly weighs a lot more too ... DID ZVMX "X" ring. As said, I don't have the personal experience to know if it will last as much longer as I have been told. But after seeing the much more powerful Bandit's chain condition and the FZ-1 picture from my buddy ... I decided to see if the big chain is worth the price. Only time and my maintenance will be the final arbiter if weather I made a prudent choice or really ended up throwing money in the wind. I hope I'm right, but ......

I want to start by saying, as anyone who has seen any of my earlier questions, I am not good mechanically. But, I am paranoid about oiling, adjusting and cleaning my chain and sprocket. I got almost 17,800 on the OEM stock set. But the chain was well and truly done as was the front sprocket was showing significant wear. Amazingly the rear sprocket still looked great. After talking to a couple of racers as well as Sprocket Center and 2 other online vendors. They all asked me the exactly same question. What is your goal, speed, weight or longevity. Since my "Arse Dyno" can't tell if I have gained or loss 2 or 3 hp with a light weight chain I went with Longevity. They pretty well said that with the FJO9 or FZ09 that the EX or DID VX was perfectly adequate on our little triples, and that the ZVMX "x" ring chain was overkill. One of the ex-racers said however with proper adjusting, cleaning and most of all Lubing he said he thought doubling the chain life (almost 36,000 miles then) was doable as 2 of his customers (one with an FZ-1 and the other with a Suzuki Bandit) had both upgraded to the significanly stronger and heavier ZVMX "x" ring chain and were both at over 30,000 miles on them and they looked great. I saw the one on the Bandit and was truly surprised at the lack of play in the chain. In the 1,000 miles since I changed both chain an sprockets I am still surprised at quiet it is, how much better it shifts and the fact that I haven't needed to adjust it even the tiniest bit. I even took off the cover and looked at the counter sprocket. While obviously, it is still early I just couldn't see any wear yet at all. Accordingly, I am going to continue to be my paranoid chain self and monitor condition but if my ex-racer/mechanic friend is right and proper maintenance might double the life .... it certainly worth the extra weight and cost. Particularly as I haven't noticed a bit of difference in acceleration; and it sure is quiet now.

I have used Shinko 705's. They worked fine. My only suggestion would be that the tread doesn't go quite as far to the edges as ... say the Trail Attack 2's. So, if you are very aggressive you might be sure not to push lean angles too much. Other than that, nothing negative to say about them. On the lightweight FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer ... I would be quite confident they will last the full mileage / kilometers of your trip. Have fun!!

Great Write-up. FWIW I would seriously consider an Electronic Cruise Control. It does a wonderful job of giving your back and arms a rest and allow you to shift to more comfortable positions while on the bike. I got the MCCruise one. About $500, so it is a bit pricey. BUT, it is plug and play and the directions and accompanying pictures are flat out fabulous .... all the way to showing you and telling you which fasteners to take off and in what order. I am truly an Electrical disaster. But the directions were so (idiot proof) even I could understand them . Took me about 4 hours to install .. cradle to grave. Then about 1/2 hour to sync the cruise control. If you don't get that I would at least look at a throttle lock of some kind; GO, Kaoko etc. Just a thought.

It's the same flash that the factory installed onto the ECU when they first programmed the ECU.... Meaning, it's how the bike came from the factory. I have not had the ECU reflashed. XPRESS: Thank you for the reply. I appreciate it.

xpress: I am slightly confused by your phrase "I have been using the factory flash". Does this mean Yamaha has a re-flash of their stock ECM? My dealer hasn't mentioned squat to me about one and when I called another dealer ... they had never heard of one. So, needless to say, I am a bit perplexed. I have a 2015 leftover. Thanks for any light you can shine on this.