Bimbim18

Is there any safe way to remove factory wheel weights without messing up my beautiful blurple rims? I was so proud of myself 6 months ago when I changed my own tires and balanced them. At the end they were better balanced than from the factory! I couldn't find a way to remove the factory weights without jacking up my rims, and all the 'safe removal tools' i found seemed aimed towards car rims where you don't have a hub in the way of operating the tool, so I pretty much balanced around them in place (with stick on weights) so i didn't have to remove the factory weights. Now I am noticing the factory wheel weights are starting to rust so I wanna remove them before the rust ruins my rims. Any suggestions?

Hmm I missed that video, thanks for pointing it out I'll definitely watch it. I remembered him recommending cutting down the spacers (I think it was on tracers) in a video but can't find it now. Is that still a thing?

I have another post in here explaining why. Still Not sure what would happen to cause it, but it doesn't change the fact it needs to be changed. Im just gonna replace both to keep them symmetrical. (Oil age, type, levels etc)

Ok so I gotta replace my dust seals. For stock suspension what fork oil do I need and how much? Seal kit arrived, I bought a bench vice and suspension compressing tools and I think in ready to go.... everything but the oil lol. I lost my owner manual, and in google searches I can only find people discussing aftermarket and modified forks it seems.

I've tried 5-6 different 'motorcycle' ear plugs. I use ear plugs every time I hit the interstate, even with my new windshield and neotec 2 i recommend ear plugs. Pinlocks are really good. Went through 2 sets (Dog ate one pair lost the second set) Currently using ear peace since I have tiny ear canals and they recently released a small size. Alpines are worth trying as well. Attenuated ear plugs are so much better than foamies, I recommend to anyone trying a few to see which ones work good for you Edit: in the military I used to do a lot of industrial hygiene, including a lot of noise dosimetry. I have a good background and understanding of a lot of things the packaging and companies don't care to go into detail about (and more than I care to get into lol). Afew years ago when i started riding, I actually dug, probably too deep into it, reading published research papers on wind tunneling and noise levels at different frequencies and all kinds of stuff. It actually gets pretty complex when you really get into it. The noise reduction ratings they have to publish is actually very unfair to the plug manufacturers, especially ones that do better at different frequencies. Often times the noise reduction ratings are not accurate measure of actual performance and real life noise reduction. Try out a few different ones and see what works for you, your bike, riding and helmet.

Thanks for the replies guys. Maybe I'll do a complete tear down after Christmas just so I don't have to worry about it. While I'm at it didn't Dave Moss recommend shortening the spacers or something in the past?

It was much less exposed 2 months ago when I noticed it. Im assuming the rust is absorbing all the water and spreading like cancer. Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize the dust cover was different from the fork seal. I have always to this point assumed the dust cover was the fork seal. How often are fork seals replaced anyways? My only concern now is the rust bursts through the inside and scratches up the forks. I'll repost a clearer pic. I took that this morning as the sun was coming up so the glare is pretty bad

My 2019 Tracer 900 GT is exactly 2 years old with only 8k miles on it and the fork seal looks like this already: Is this how fork seals normally go (looks like the rust is bursting through the rubber) ? Is it possible the rubber was somehow damaged and caused it to do this? Im concerned because my last bike I had for 3 years and put 48k miles on it and the fork seals never did that. P.s. this'll be my first time working on forks, much less inverted ones.. any tips or guides would be greatly appreciated 😁

Yeah, I want to disassemble it completely. The upper aluminum cone shaped things are corroding too, so I want to remove that so I can get a good paint and prime on that as well as the rod that holds the mirrors.

My handguard brackets and mirror stems are rusting pretty bad. I want to take it all apart and sand and paint. Anyone know how to do this? From looking at it I especially can't tell how to remove the mirror from the stem.

I've been contemplating wrapping my lids for almost 2 years now (bought my Tracer GT Nov 2018, 2 weeks old did a parking lot drop lol) Sanded out the deep scratches (not thinking about the primer being white) Just never got around to it. Life is settling a bit though so reconsidering the project. My vision though was carbon fiber or metallic black with blurple top/bottom. My immediate thought was also to use the lines of the lid. With the wrap going on partially like you did, does it seem like the wrap may peel? I've never worked with wrap before so just wondering. When I initially planned out the project I was planning on keeping all the endpoints inside the lid seal to reduce chance of peeling, but I'm wondering if its even necessary.

Guess not?

I have the same one. Love it. But I'm short. 5'5" 160 lbs. With windshield up all the way and deflector all the way up the draft barely hits the top of my helmet. Very stable even at 85 to 90 mph. For hot days with only city riding I lower the deflector and it puts just the right amount of wind in my face.

Just out of curiosity would these parts rusting up be covered under a warranty? I don't know how warranties work these days.

Yep, I live in S Florida, about 5 miles from the ocean. And since she's my daily driver, it's not really practical to garage it since I probably hop on it at least 3-5 times a day I'm contemplating removing and painting the matte parts with something with a thicker coat. Sucks I gotta do that for a new bike.

My last bike was a 2003 Honda Shadow. I bought it in 2016. In 6 months it started curling and bubbling. Within a year the 13 year old polarizer film for the LCD melted from the Florida sun. Reading up on it, seems to be a common issue for LCD panels exposed to the sun in FL and TX. It took some searching but I found a high temp rated polarizing film, disassembled my speedo and replaced the odometer polarizer with the high temp stuff. Never even showed the slightest signs of curling or discoloration for the following 2 years I owned it. You may have to do homework to see what kinda plastic you need, but it's probably worth it to try to find a high temp replacement and use that instead. Make sure you know if it just needs to be plastic, or a polarizing film. If the LCDs are invisible with the plastic removed, it's a polarizer. If it's a polarizer make sure the polarized side is facing the inside (will increase the range of view) and that it is assigned properly (alligned as flat horizontally as possible)

+1 for road 5s. Just replaced my stock tires (6500 miles) with them. Mounted and balanced myself. The stickiness is definitely there and digging my fingernails into the tires I can definitely feel the center will definitely last. I hadn't really pushed it but the grip is definitely impressive. There's a round- about with paint on it on the way to work that my tires always wanted to slide on it (why would they do that). Not even a sense of it wanting to slide. And definitely grabs the road in the rain still.

I have a 2019 tracer 900 GT. She's my daily driver, but she'll be turning 2 in November. The rest of her still looks beautiful when I wash her, but the matte parts are fading and showing signs of rust already. What's the best way to protect the matte parts?

Just saying. I thought my bike was a bit vibey too (2019 tracer 900 GT). Just replaced the stock tires (6500 miles) with Michelin road 5s, mounted and balanced myself. Not vibey at all anymore till I hit 90+.

anyone know if this is the same color for a 2019 Tracer 900 GT's rims?

Looks sexy!

Well guys thanks, 1st time owning a new bike, Like I said, there is no master link (all of the links are identical) and DID doesn't even list the chain on their website, from what I am reading on other documentation is that is the chain they sell to Yamaha, they let Yamaha support it. I bought my previous bike with an aftermarket chain, when I had to cut the chain i replaced it with a clip (from same mfg, same model number chain) and a matching masterlink for both chains after. And no, a DID 525VX3 masterlink won't fit a DID 525V11 chain just because they're both 525 chains. Although the 525 standard applies to everyone on the outside, the internals (Pin length, diameter, etc) is pretty much up to the manufacturer, and not uniform across all models (yes I skimmed over the ANSI standards) I was very surprised to see that, I also thought a 520 chain is a 520 chain, and a 525 was a 525... they are, but they aren't. Well, at least i know now that the rear tire can be removed without removing chain if done correctly. I am going with Scooter's advice, I like the specs on the DID 525VX3, and hey, I have a masterlink anyways. I'm just gonna order one of those try that chain out.

1st time with an OEM Chain (no master link) I've always just ordered a clip on masterlink from the same chain manfacturer (which I did this time as well, but the masterlink doesn't fit) Guess I just got lucky with that first one I ordered, after that first one I always ordered one with the chain. In the past I always just removed the chain when working with the wheels. Guess I could've just loosened it all the way and finagled the wheel off around the loosened chain. Just how I've always done it.

There was no masterlink, I used a chain breaking tool. And ya' there's a lot of masterlinks there, but there's no way to see which (if any of those) will work with a stock chain.

I'm very tempted to dremmel down the pins to the correct diameter lol . (bad idea?)