StealthAu

Yes. I'm only 220lbs and every bike I have owned required heavier springs as a minimum. You can make the suspension work as best it can in stock form, but having it sprung to your weight makes a world of difference.

Go over some carpark speed bumps at 10kmph. Your wheels would leave the ground, the bike will buck. Being in the available adjustment range doesn't mean it isn't over dampening at that point. Stand your bike up, push down on the seat and watch it rise up. It needs to be able to react in a manner so that when you go over bumps, after the springs compress, they extend fast enough to maintain contact with the ground. Stock gt suspension with that much rebound damping moves way too slow.

For suspension setup, first set sag. Ideally, you want to be in 25-30% of travel sitting on the bike. I'd aim more towards the 25% on this bike for a little more clearance. At 100kg/220lbs this isn't achievable with stock springs in the front. Can get it there in the rear, but the amount of preload required results in zero static sag. I've ordered new springs. For the time being, I have the preload in the front maxed out giving me about 36% sag. Bike needs to be balanced, so the rear is matched to about the same. Next is rebound. Start on the forks. Take it all the way out, push down on the forks and release. note how it behaves. It will shoot up, then bounce a few times before settling. Adjust the rebound all the way in and repeat. Note how slowly it comes up, no bounce. Get a feel for how the rebound damping effects it. Now, you want to set it to where the least amount of damping that when you push down on the forks and release, it comes back up and settles. No bouncing. Repeat for the rear. With sag and rebound damping setup, we move to compression damping. Personally, with compression damping adjustment only available on the front, I just set it to where the front and rear are uniformed. Push down on the handlebar and seat, release, the front and rear go down and come back up consistent to each other, balanced. What you can do to get an understanding of how compression damping effects suspension travel, back it all the way out and go for a ride. Then, adjust it all the way in and repeat. You will then have a feel for what too much and too little compression damping is. From there, chuck the compression damping to factory settings and adjust to your liking. If your forks bottom out, or getting close to bottom out, you can add more compression damping as a band aid while waiting for new springs.

I checked the part number for the gt fork springs, 0.75kg/mm fixed rate. Good idea, but for it to be useful, you need to know where bottom out is. Lift the front wheel off the ground, measure the exposed fork tube. Check manufacturer specification for fork travel, subtract this from the tube length. What you are left with is the distance from the bottom of the tube to where bottom out is. It's 13mm from the bottom of the tube on the tracers, if unaware of this, you could be touching bottom out and think you have more available travel.

Any rough roads, traction must be a serious issue with that much rebound damping. If you push down on the rear of your bike, how many cups of coffee can you make before it resets?

Madstad will do the trick.

You can change traction control between level 1 and 2 while moving, as you described. You can only turn it off when at a stand still.

With a flash, can traction control be defaulted to off when the bike starts? Or switched off while moving?

The largest listed on their site. Follow their height recommendation and you should be right.

At 6'6" The stock screen annoyed the hell out of me. Took it off, much better. Bought a cheap short matte black screen off ebay just for looks really, works just as well as no screen. Picked up a Madstad screen for longer trips in the cooler months, works great. keeps the air off me and is nice and quiet.

18, 19, the only difference is what is stamped on the plate. The only benefit for buying a 19 is if you turn around and sell it in 12 months or less. If you can find an 18 plated, you should be able to get the price down to realistic.

No such luck mate, it was an 18 plated with 100km on it. they had it on the floor a while and wanted to move it. I can't see them putting another in stock to repeat the process. If you have time, you have an advantage. These aren't flying out of dealers, if there is stock at $20k out the door today, it'll be there a while and come down in price before it moves.

It's 24,000km between belt change and valve clearance. They have come a long way. But again, what I was trying to point out is that if Yamaha are pricing the GT at the same point as the Multi 950 in any given market, they are having a laugh. You look at the components that go into each bike, the GT is cheaper. I paid $16,500 AUD for my GT, at which point it is good value. At $20k, there are a lot of other bikes I would be looking at first.

The multi is a better bike. Better suspension, brakes. Traction control, abs. Quality of controls and all the little things. Even tyres. If you have a dealer local to you, I'd test ride one. But I was more so pointing out, that isn't a realistic price point for a gt. The gt doesn't stack up to the competition at that price.

Reliability and service intervals aren't what they use to be.

For $20k you can get a multistrada 950.

35-45mm in the manual. If you don't know how much slack a chain needs, be it a modified/custom, or manual spec doesn't seem right, it is easy to check exactly what it needs. Unbolt the rear shock and align the centre sprocket, swingarm pivot point and rear sprocket in a straight line. Use straps or a jack to keep aligned. In this alignment, the distance between the front and rear sprocket is at its maximum. Measure the distance between the centre of the front and centre of the rear socket. With the front and rear sprocket at maximum distance apart, you want between 1-3% slack. So, set it at 3%, bolt the shock back in and put on centre stand. measure slack. The number you get is the maximum, in future when measuring slack, this is the point you will readjust. Now, remove the shock again, realign sprockets and swingarm pivot. Adjust slack to 1% of distance between sprockets, reattach shock, put on centre stand and measure slack. The number you get is the minimum, what to aim for when adjusting slack.

Pirelli GT Angels are a great tyre. Grip in dry is as good as it gets. In the wet, it is surprising how well it grips. On another bike I had a set of Dunlops fitted, in the wet I would step it out sideways for a bit of fun. Changed to the GT's and trying to do the same in the wet, the GT's would just hook up, no loss of traction. Mileage on them is great too. You'll get a lot of different answers, as these days there are a lot of good options to pick from.

Sharks are sold separately. I was given one of these when buying a couple sets of sprockets and chains a few years back. Used a bunch of other methods prior, but using the laser makes it quick and easy for myself. The price in the one I linked is over the top, only just saw it. You can get them for around $20 elsewhere.

I align my chain with a laser, like the one in the link below. Profi Motorcycle Laser Chain Alignment Tool. Profi C.A.T Standard DOT Laser Finally with this tool you can check chain and belt alignment with laser...

I do all my own suspension work, along with everything else. I'm still in the deciding range as to what approach I'll take with the GT. I don't really want to spend too much money on this bike as I don't see myself keeping it for the long haul. I've got three bikes, two of them are keepers and I've spent a lot setting them up. The tracer, I just don't see in the same light, great bike, but I'll probably trade it in a year or two. I have the front forks maxed out on preload and have over 50mm of sag. Definitely need springs. The valving in the forks is adequate, I can work within the range they provide. A set of Matris cartridges would be miles ahead, but again, I don't know if I want to spend the money on this ride. The rear needs a new spring, it ain't designed for 100kg rider. Again the valving seems adequate, it'd be nice to have compression adjustment, but it isn't terrible for what it is. It would be nice to be able to push this thing a little harder than the stock suspension will ever allow, but I have other bikes for that. I always have one bike which is kept mostly stock, just to munch the miles. That is the role of the GT.

Looking to upgrade my suspension. I see the base model 18/19 Tracer uses the same rear shock as previous generations, which means, replacements marketed for any tracer would be suited for the GT. I've checked part numbers on the front fork springs, and those used on the GT are the same as previous gen FJ's. Fork tubes, upper and lower, are the same on the GT as previous FJ's. Can't find info on the spring in the rear shock for the GT. So based on what I have found, there are options for replacement fork springs, replacement fork cartridges and replacement rear shocks. Does anyone know what options are available for rear spring replacement? I'm weighing up if I'll just spring to my weight or upgrade the lot.

It isn't licensing. There are two reasons why they lock your ecu. First, to protect their canned tunes. If they don't lock them, someone can download your tune and chuck it on other bikes. Other reason is if you need adjustments in future, you're locked in to using the same tuner. Looking at Ivan's site, it looks like he doesn't adjust the qs cuts, nor offer downshift auto blips on older models which other software can offer.

I could be wrong, but I don't believe there is provision for tuning quickfhift cuts for the GT yet. Do you know what software Ivan uses?

Downshift would require new hardware. Just the shift sensor, easy to swap out. On the software side, I don't think anyone has this available for the 18/19 models as yet. Woolich Racing are working on this, once available, any tuner (or DIYer) using their software will be able to make it happen.