StealthAu

Yes, you will wear out your chain quicker, increase chances of breaking it too. As your shock compresses, chain tightens. I had my rear shock off recently and can confirm the manual specs are what you want.

It seems too soon for a revamped model, new paint schemes is all I would expect.

From 2 up any bike will do this. The idea behind electronic quick shift is that it does it quicker.

That is surprising. Every bike I've owned has had them fitted with the first tyre change. I would have thought all the shops carry them. They're 11.3mm. Get some right angles ones.

Tyre shops will have various sizes on hand. Just have them supply and install. Buying your own won't save you bugger all.

I bought a digital copy off Ebay. Can't CTL+F a hard copy

You can get lowering links, they would work with the stock, or any shock. Don't let any of this talk you out of getting a new shock though. There are plenty of options out there that would be better than stock. It is just sounding like yours is not ideally setup. If you're not completely eager on spending some money, setup what you have first. I'd be hesitant to consider lowering the tracer. The ground clearance is ordinary to begin with.

Surprisingly, the valving in the shock seems adequate for a 10.5kg/mm spring. I'm only a couple clicks out on rebound, without a doubt the service life of the shock oil is going to be limited, but it should be good for long enough to find a cheap stock shock to revalve.

While probably applicable for Larz, this varies depending on weight. For myself at 100kg, the forks couldn't do their job stock. Preload at max and compression damping dialed in to the point that the ride sucked, I was still bottoming out the forks regularly.

You'll be fine on stock suspension. No need for a new spring. I've posted in another thread on here a detailed guide to setting up suspension, how to get an understanding of what stuff does and what you want it to do.

If you feel it has become bouncy in the rear due to weight reductions, try adding a couple clicks of rebound damping in the shock. I think the stock spring is around 8.5 or 9. What do you weigh?

Have you adjusted your rebound?

Living in the tropics, we get a horrible summer, constant, unbearable wet heat for half the year. I ride all year round, don't own a car. But in summer seldom go for a ride for enjoyment. It's just a means of getting where I need to be. Loading up on water to survive the 10 minute ride to or from work. The other half of the year is great, never a day too cold to ride. Downside, the good riding weather is also the part of the year working on bikes is bearable. Do I install my new cams in my ducati this weekend, or take it out for a ride.. Riding usually wins out until the heat starts creeping back in, then it is a frantic rush to get all the jobs done before the garage becomes the sauna.

Agreed. 303 is great stuff. Armoural and other brands I've tried tend to leave a greasy film, this stuff not so much. It will make sun damaged plastic look better than it did, but not like new. Will prevent further degrade.

Good to hear you got it sorted. Now I can return to my conundrum of the day. Going out for a ride, do I take the yamaha, ducati or honda. decisions decisions.

It isn't a strength thing mate. Brute force rarely wins. Shock does. Always better off using a fixed spanner than an adjustable wrench. But either way, gently push in the direction it needs to go with one hand, tap the end of the wrench with the other. Also worth noting for those who might not know, when using an adjustable wrench, the adjustable part should be on the inside of the direction you are turning it. You want the fixed part of the wrench doing the bulk of the work.

Just checked. Definitely reverse thread. Clockwise to undo. 17mm spanner, tap the handle and loosened with ease.

You need a thin walled 10mm socket. You should be able to find a tool outlet that stocks them. Otherwise, you can grind one down to fit.

That seems to be the reason behind it. Unless manufacturers just like messing with their customers, as both mirrors are more prone to coming loose at speed with this design.

Easy way to remember, push the mirrors back and they loosen. Some manufactures do this so that if you clip a mirror in traffic, stuff is less likely to break.

Right is reverse.

Do you guys get much movement in your madstad screens?

With the mirrors coming out at an aprox 45 degree angle, either of the two would give much the same result, I would think. One benefit with the ones you are getting, you would be able to raise the mirrors and move them forward, rather than increasing overall width of the bike.

525 isn't an odd size. 520, 525, 530. All common, most stores will stock all three. R1's don't come with a 520 stock. I know a bunch of R1 models that came with 525, maybe all? 520 is lighter. Not by much and you wont notice any drastic difference. They are cheaper typically. 525 will generally cost more for equal quality, 525 will generally last longer. Which do you pick for an fj/tracer? Pros and cons don't really swing much either way, whatever your preference.

If it has a 10mm socket, clearly it isn't a 10mm thread.