flyfifer

Coop, The prime reason I put my relay in the seat area is my ",behind the screen" space is full of Garmin "charger" and my "smart fuse box" which feeds the Garmin, Hella Socket and Led lights. Sounds like you have a plan. Have you decided where to mount the Bomb --- they are heavy brutes ! Mine is mounted on my Givi crash bars.

Two gripes. The position of the Ignition Switch. Bent key liability. Having to use a menu to select heated grips ---- I am suddenly cold , I don't want to fiddle about on a screen.

Coop, Answering your question but not directly. I have just fitted a Denali Sound Bomb which like your Steibel pulls a lot of current. With the seats off you will see a lot of space between the "plastic," and the frame of the bike --- in the rider's seat area. After doing the wiring I put the Type 86 relay in there --- you will need to use a relay. So --- I ran a wire, to from the switched positive to the existing horn, along the side of the tank tucked down into the plastic. There is one button head screw up at the rider's seat area holding the panel on. Take the screw out and it will let you ease the plastic panel out a little. The horn positive operates the relay coil. You will need to take wires from both 12v and -ve of the battery to the relay. Both capable of handling 18amps. You will need to take -ve from the battery to your Steibel AND the output 12v from the relay. Both wires capable of handling the 18amps. Google type 86 relay for a circuit drawing. The 12v and -ve can be run to the Steibel in the "same channel" that the 12v feed got to the relay. Alternatively take 12v and -ve 18amp wires up to the space behind the screen and locate the relay in there. Put a 20amp fuse in the 12v feed to the relay. Lots of words -- easier in practice.!

The fundamentals of the mounting system I have made. I found that by taking the plastics off one side only I could get good access to that side, suss out what I was doing and was able to replicate on the other side without taking the plastics off. The sketch is sketchy but the key sizes are there. Two bits of 20mm x 4mm x 235mm long, for the "legs". Each leg with three 8mm holes on the centre line. One length of 8mm screwed rod 325mm long. Two nylon (or similar) spacers 18mm long x 18mm dia, with an 8mm hole longitudinally. Two bits of 25mm x 2mm , to make the two 90deg angle brackets. I drilled these 8mm but used 6mm screws to keep some wriggle room. Two bits of nylon or similar 22mm dia x 60mm long with an 8mm central hole, to mount the lights on. Alternatively could put a 90 deg bend on the end of longer "legs" and mount the lights -- the round nylon makes it easier to adjust the light angle.

Anybody in the UK looking for a Switched Fuze Box could do worse than check out the offering on this site. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/&ved=2ahUKEwix24CVyOfjAhWSilwKHbaMDfMQFjAAegQIBhAD&usg=AOvVaw0irLmkiVv-aRZzOBeNv_b0 I have used the fuse box on several bikes.

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Cozza's write up refers to Spare Connector, singular. Runnerhiker's post/pic shows One Spare Connector. I found only One Spare Connector when I opened up the screen area this afternoon. Betoney, have you seen three ?

Over the last couple of days I have taken off the Plastics from one side of the bike and made/ fitted the light mounting brackets. I have pics and sizes of the made parts and will post those in due course. Power supplies to sort out first as per the Aux power thread.

By coincidence I opened up the "electric box" today to have a look. I thought I read somewhere there were three SPARE power connectors in there.. I obviously misunderstood or misread. As runnerhiker's pic shows there is only one. There is however lots of space so I intend to put my "Fuse Box" in there and use the Spare connector to "Switch On" imy fuse box. GPS, LED lights and Hella/DIN power socket will get fed from the "Fuse Box".

How about we spell Tyres properly😁🤡

I will post up a pic of the individual parts, with final sizes and the assly in situ. In due course.!

Materials being collected. 20mm X 4mm flat bar for the two verticals. 8mm threaded rod for the upper cross piece ( as perGivi ). Probably use the same 8mm threaded bar through 8mm bore tube for the lower cross piece (Givi use flat bar with 90deg bends on the ends. Bits of 20mmx2mm flat bar for the bent bits to attach the verticals to the Yamaha holes that Givi use. Sundry nuts, washers and spacers. £8 for the lot, I reckon , (excluding spray paint) v £45 from Givi.

I reckon that the design of the Givi LS2139 light mounting system lends itself to a DIY interpretation. Givi helpfully make the fitting instructions available and there are even some sizes on components. I intend to produce an interpretation in due course. The lights end up mounted like this using the Givi LS2139. MY MOTORCYCLE - YAMAHA TRACER-900--TRACER-900-GT-18--19 - Givi Discover the GIVI...

The SW Motech offering is more expensive than R&G's ! I finally decided to buy an R&G.

I simply wondered if you had used a waterproof strip or it was in a little waterproof "box". Waterproofing is a bit more of an issue in my part of the planet !

Wordy, if I read the drawing correctly, the yellow wire to the brake light is the switched 12v. Correct ? Could you post a link to the red led strip you used --presumably a waterproof item.

Those bullet lights do look good up there, imho, and presumably relatively easy to mount.

With the sophistication of a TFT screen and the data organisation that the options seem to offer it is bizarre there is not a Distance Remaining option, rather than it counting the Distance Travelled since the warning came on. Could it be that if the system calculated a Distance to Empty , presumably based on the Average Consumption and people ran out before that ---- they are afraid of litigation !!

I was looking for proprietary aux light mounting bars/ brackets to see how they fixed to the bike. Objective being to identify an easy make, effective and cheap DIY design. Givi have a system which utilizes a hollow rod that runs across the nose of the bike as the main mounting. Ref LS2139. Yamaha's own design appears to utilise holes in the metal work of the cockpit area as does another manufacturers offering. One thing they all had in common was three point fastening of the bracket. Wordsmith has created his aerofoil. Anybody else made one ?

I was trying to avoid the tedium of reading a manual !

Other than the R&G offering and the probably poor quality ex China cheap offering ( I saw one of these for a Tiger and the top plate was made of soft rubbish) ----- has anybody found another good product ??

Cozza, That is a superb write up on how to access the Aux plugs Mr. Yamaha provided.

As a lurker on the forum I am a bit surprised there are no video links of using the Wheel and what Screen options are actually available. I don't suppose we can get miles per litre. ! Is there a Miles to Empty option ( presumably would use avg consumption) ?