Your_Boy_Yuriy

I believe there is already a thread on here talking about the new Tracer 9 GT. As for the instrument panel at first I thought it was stupid. Then I realized that's the best place to mount my phone...right between the two screens. Because on my current 2020 tracer my phone hides 1/6 of my dash. I don't think there is a base model for the 2021 model year because I haven't heard anyone talk about the base model. But I could be wrong.

I found out that my handguard bolt was missing around 6K miles. But to be fair I did drop the bike on that side. The side case did take all the force. However, I am not fully convinced that bolt came out because I dropped the bike.

Okay, after thinking more about your problem. You definitely don't need a new clutch cable, not sure why I said that. Just adjust it, if needed, your bike is way too new. Most likely water got into oil seal and the bearing during the pressure wash. Inspect parts 29 & 30 and add some lube. That should fix your problem. See the image below: 29: OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE. Part #: 93102-15212-00 30: BEARING. Part #: 93315-21570-00

I guess I learned a very important lesson don’t pressure wash a bike. Lol

petshark, As for the adjusting clutch cable nuts they do seems on the far side. When I get home I'll take some pictures/videos of my bike for reference. I haven't adjusted anything yet or installed new levers. I am guessing those aftermarket levers might of cause some cable stretch, but who knows. Anyways, have the dealer inspect it, their professionals.

The gas gauge is a real bummer. You'll eventually learn how to live with it. I always wondered if a simple ECU flash would fix this issue. Does anyone know if it would?

Well, well I’m not gonna lie but I’m pretty jealous of this bike yeah sure it cost a lot but the power power. Some of the tech I care about some of the tech I don’t care. Don’t get me wrong the tracer is quick from 0 to 60 and even up to 100 mph however it’s lacking power in the upper speeds. Well I have a huge touring screen and luggage cases ( top & sides). Explains why it’s a little slower however the tracer is very unstable around 130 mph depending on the setup. but I’m honestly glad the tracer has a decent power and great MPG‘s. 45 MPG for my setup. pretty happy with the acceleration overall, Plus I shouldn’t be going on over 100. Personally don’t care about the adaptive cruise control. As long as it has cruise control I’m happy. It’s always cool to have it though but you pay extra. As for the Blindspot monitoring detection I would love to have this feature. Kinda reminds me of the first couple of years when bikes came out with ABS. You pay extra for ABS and now pretty much all bike come with it standard. The last thing that I would be concerned if I was buying this bike was the reliability. I bought a Japanese bike for a reason. One major reason was the long-term reliability. 15 years plus with over 100k miles. My first bike was a 1982 Kawasaki KZ 550. With all the maintenance done that bike ran well and I also abuse the crap out of it. It was also neglected before me. If money wasn’t a issue yeah hands-down I would definitely get this as a sport tourer instead of the new tracer 9GT

Definitely worth the watch.

Interesting thread here. Anyways, what would be a good aftermarket replacement when the OEM part fails? I guess just buy off of a reputable supplier. lol

Funny, I was reading my owners manual a couple days ago and it mentioned Y.E.S. Y.E.S does sounds awesome. However, I literally do all the work myself. Literally if the engine had some kind of failure I would fix it myself however OEM parts aren't cheap. That would only be the reason why I would buy Y.E.S. I would say if you're not mechanically inclined the extended warranty is worth it. Even if you are mechanically inclined I think its still worth the extra $500. Remember, Yamaha wouldn't offer something like this without being financially feasible. I'll trust that Yamaha engineers stress tested the components well beyond it useful lifecycle. But, that doesn't mean I wouldn't buy Y.E.S.

Well I guess it’s not fix just yet. Yuriy

Everything looks okay! Be cautious when riding for the first 10 minutes. And do a couple hard brake tests. If you really want to know if those aftermarket pads are causing the extra fiction install the old pad and compare. Glad you fix it and ride safe, Yuriy Koval

Here’s a videos of my 2020 tracer. Make sure you have absolutely no tension on the brake lines. I mentioned one of the brake lines had slight tension and that was because the forks were fully extended. I believe you mentioned somewhere on your post that you installed a external horn. Can you take a picture of the horn setup so we can see how much slack you have on the lines? I believe you mentioned you installed aftermarket brake pads maybe that’s why it’s extra grippy. If you want I can take another video with a piece of wood between the caliper pistons? Hope this video helps, Yuriy Koval

I'm with Peteinpa, its the simplest thing you can do. Also make sure the rotors are straight, if they are warped that might cause the caliper piston to drag. lastly, spin the wheel and then crack open the bleeder valve if the drag goes away. Then something is holding pressure in your system. 1). Master cylinder 2). calipers 3). hoses. Are the only three options that I can thing of. Yuriy Koval

So, it still sounds like you're unsure if the problem is with the wheel bearing or braking system. Try this to isolate the issue. Remove the front brakes and go for a ride. You just need to find a way to secure the calipers when riding. Because removing the entire front brake system is a lot of work. Just use the rear brake and ride only in a safe place. BTW I don't recommend it. This is what I would do if I couldn't figure it out. lol Yuriy Koval

Definitely looks like the wheel bearing from video 2 (if the brakes were off). As for sound in video 1, it really doesn't sound like a bad wheel bearing. Sounds worse then that. However, what you're describing has something to do with the wheel bearing. Personally I would take off the front wheel and inspect each bearing. You don't have remove bearing, just spin it with you hands. If the bearings are fine, then make sure each caliper piston slide in and out with ease (you'll still need good amount of force to push in the pistons). It doesn't really sound like you have air in your brake system though. I would open the bleed valve on the caliper and just pump fluid straight out(3 pump). Then properly bleed the brakes. If this doesn't help then I don't know... could be the master cylinder, brake lines, or calipers. However, I highly doubt that because your bike is so new. Good Luck & enjoy troubleshooting. Yuriy Koval

I received my recall letter yesterday (Illinois). My question is: Has any actually experience a issue with the switch? I have roughly 14k miles and I don't ever remember the brake light not turning on or failing.