Tracer 9 GT Problem

[miweber929]

This is one of those different strokes for different folks things for sure: I love the TFT on my '20 Tracer GT and am good with the screen on my '17 Supersport, thought I do wish it was the TFT the '21 plus has, and find the analog dash on my Sprint GT hard to read. I guess it's all what you get used to.

 

My Jeep and my Silverado both have "analog" dashes and find myself putting the center screen to the digital speedo and read that. I hate having to drive the work F150 because I can't read the analog only dash........

[PavelZ]

On 9/26/2022 at 8:39 AM, PavelZ said:

I have similar problem on my Tracer 9 2021. It started after 18.000 km. When starting the engine in cold weather about 15 °C and slightly open the throttle the engine has tendency to stall. The other issue is when slowly accelerating and closing throttle a bit it jerks or vibrate.
And yesterday I lost the throttle during ride. I had to stop turn the engine off. After few minutes it was ok.

I have noticed that the jerky throttle response occurs only when the engine is below 5.000 RPM (most often between 3.000 a 4.000). I have read the service manual and it says that every service check the throttle body syncronization should be done. I doubt that the service does that. I have schedulled inspection for throttle body cleaning and hopefully synchronization as well.  I will see if it helps.

[INDYST]

I can't figure out if I like the split screens on my '22 T9GT. The best screen I've ever seen on a bike (TFT) is my brothers 2021 Honda Africa Twin.

[2and3cylinders]

MG Mondello V100

Only 5" from Aprilia 

Only $17k for the S

[PavelZ]

Quote

On 10/3/2022 at 1:33 PM, PavelZ said:

I have noticed that the jerky throttle response occurs only when the engine is below 5.000 RPM (most often between 3.000 a 4.000). I have read the service manual and it says that every service check the throttle body syncronization should be done. I doubt that the service does that. I have schedulled inspection for throttle body cleaning and hopefully synchronization as well.  I will see if it helps.

I have ECU flashed. It fixed the problem for a while. After 1.000 km all the issues are back. I will give the service the second try ...

 

[BVEBRAD]

8 hours ago, PavelZ said:

 

When you say that you had your ECU reflashed are you referring to Yamahas reflash or some aftermarket shop?  All Yamahas reflash did was make my bike less smooth and the throttle a bit choppy.  Once my warranty is up (Yamaha extended my warranty for the time it was down, over 6 months) I plan on sending the ECU out to @ Wheeled Dyno works.  They did a nice job on my FJ09.

[pgeldz]

Well, add me to the list with the same exact problem.

2019 Tracer 900 GT.  11,000 trouble free miles.  Flashed by Ivan, and also have a Rapid Bike RACE with auto blipper.

Bike ran perfectly.

Developed same issue as what's described here.  No throttle when accelerating or sometimes coming to a stop...bike dies, check engine light comes on.  It's VERY dangerous.

My OBD2 scanner says the code is P2138.  I look up on the internet. Says throttle position sensor.

I bought a brand new TPS from Yamaha and had it installed.

Rode the bike for an hour and went to my GF's house for dinner and it rode great.

I left her house and it did the same issue on the way home.  I was accelerating from about 50 to 70 mph in 5th gear.  The bike started stumble a little bit and just shut off, I got off the highway coasted to the shoulder and the check engine light came on.  Restarted no problem and road it home.  Scan the code and again same code, throttle position sensor.

What do I do at this point? Replace the acceleration position sensor on the throttle body? Or just replacing the entire throttle body which comes with new sensors?.

Again, this bike has been perfect for the last 11,000 miles...

Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

[BVEBRAD]

It sounds like you're having a throttle body issue as well.  

Good luck, as mentioned my bike is the T9GT.  Sorry to hear the 900 is experiencing similar issues.

[pgeldz]

7 minutes ago, BVEBRAD said:

It sounds like you're having a throttle body issue as well.  

Good luck, as mentioned my bike is the T9GT.  Sorry to hear the 900 is experiencing similar issues.

My bike is a T9GT as well...

[skipperT]

1 hour ago, pgeldz said:

My bike is a T9GT as well...

If your bike is a 2019 then you have a different system than the newer model being discussed in this thread. 

you may want to start a new topic? That might get more answers and discussion from the community. 

regardless, you can swap the sensor that you just installed for the APS to see if your problem goes away. Or if you fancy throwing parts at a problem without further diagnosis, then installing another new sensor would make sense. 

I would ensure that they are both calibrated correctly - this is a critical step. The YCC-T system is designed to throw codes and go into limp mode if the values seen by the sensors vary even slightly in relationship to each other. 
dirty pins/connectors on the harness side will also cause this problem. 

-Skip

[pgeldz]

5 hours ago, skipperT said:

If your bike is a 2019 then you have a different system than the newer model being discussed in this thread. 

you may want to start a new topic? That might get more answers and discussion from the community. 

regardless, you can swap the sensor that you just installed for the APS to see if your problem goes away. Or if you fancy throwing parts at a problem without further diagnosis, then installing another new sensor would make sense. 

I would ensure that they are both calibrated correctly - this is a critical step. The YCC-T system is designed to throw codes and go into limp mode if the values seen by the sensors vary even slightly in relationship to each other. 
dirty pins/connectors on the harness side will also cause this problem. 

-Skip

Thanks Skip!

Is the calibration only something the dealer can do?  Because my guy who installed the TPS sensor also sync'd the throttle bodies...and he knows Yamahas...used to be an engine builder for Graves Motorsports for like 10 years...

[pgeldz]

6 hours ago, pgeldz said:

My bike is a T9GT as well...

It's actually a T900GT, 2019.  My apologies...

[skipperT]

17 hours ago, pgeldz said:

Thanks Skip!

Is the calibration only something the dealer can do?  Because my guy who installed the TPS sensor also sync'd the throttle bodies...and he knows Yamahas...used to be an engine builder for Graves Motorsports for like 10 years...

Anyone with a computer or scan tool can do it - the values have to be checked and set in Diagnostic mode. 

-S

[pgeldz]

On 10/23/2023 at 7:45 AM, skipperT said:

If your bike is a 2019 then you have a different system than the newer model being discussed in this thread. 

you may want to start a new topic? That might get more answers and discussion from the community. 

regardless, you can swap the sensor that you just installed for the APS to see if your problem goes away. Or if you fancy throwing parts at a problem without further diagnosis, then installing another new sensor would make sense. 

I would ensure that they are both calibrated correctly - this is a critical step. The YCC-T system is designed to throw codes and go into limp mode if the values seen by the sensors vary even slightly in relationship to each other. 
dirty pins/connectors on the harness side will also cause this problem. 

-Skip

Looks like the problem is solved!

So, Amazon OBD II scanners can only get you so far...

What looked like a TPS sensor gone bad actually turned out to be the APS sensor (Acceleration Position Sensor) instead, and it had to be calibrated with the Yamaha dealer tools for it to operate correctly.

 

Recap:

We originally replaced the TPS and did a throttle body sync (without the dealer tools), and bike had same issue.

Replaced the APS and then a different issue - bike would act like it would start but wouldn't actually turn over, so my guy installed the original APS (thinking I could return the new one I just bought) and said probably needs further diagnostics form the dealer because they have specialty tools.

 

He was right!

 

Took it to the dealer, they hooked it up to the Yamaha Dealer tools that drills down further than my generic OBD II scanner and it said it was the APS, with a specific note saying it wasn't signaling to something, etc. (I forget the exact note).

He took it off right in front of me, moved the guts with his finger and showed me the range of movement wasn't correct and couldn't even get to where it needed to be.

He then hooked up the "New" APS I brought with me, moved the guts with his finger and showed me had the proper range and values like it should.  He installed it, calibrated it, and bike issue is solved.

When I asked him why it didn't work the first time we installed it, he said, "There is about a 40% change it'll work as-is, but they really need to be calibrated with the special Yamaha Dealer Diag tools."

He did that, and it was fine.  So it looks like there WAS an issue with my original APS, and the new one calibrated by the dealer with their special Yamaha Diag tools fixed it.

 

 

- Paul

 

 

 

 

[skipperT]

On 1/12/2024 at 12:36 PM, pgeldz said:

Looks like the problem is solved!

So, Amazon OBD II scanners can only get you so far...

What looked like a TPS sensor gone bad actually turned out to be the APS sensor (Acceleration Position Sensor) instead, and it had to be calibrated with the Yamaha dealer tools for it to operate correctly.

 

Recap:

We originally replaced the TPS and did a throttle body sync (without the dealer tools), and bike had same issue.

Replaced the APS and then a different issue - bike would act like it would start but wouldn't actually turn over, so my guy installed the original APS (thinking I could return the new one I just bought) and said probably needs further diagnostics form the dealer because they have specialty tools.

 

He was right!

 

Took it to the dealer, they hooked it up to the Yamaha Dealer tools that drills down further than my generic OBD II scanner and it said it was the APS, with a specific note saying it wasn't signaling to something, etc. (I forget the exact note).

He took it off right in front of me, moved the guts with his finger and showed me the range of movement wasn't correct and couldn't even get to where it needed to be.

He then hooked up the "New" APS I brought with me, moved the guts with his finger and showed me had the proper range and values like it should.  He installed it, calibrated it, and bike issue is solved.

When I asked him why it didn't work the first time we installed it, he said, "There is about a 40% change it'll work as-is, but they really need to be calibrated with the special Yamaha Dealer Diag tools."

He did that, and it was fine.  So it looks like there WAS an issue with my original APS, and the new one calibrated by the dealer with their special Yamaha Diag tools fixed it.

 

 

- Paul

 

 

 

 

Glad it’s all fixed!
Yes unfortunately for there are certain things which are still better to be accessed and adjusted with the appropriate Dealer Software.

Sounds like your technician was very knowledgeable and accommodating. Support your shop, they deserve it. 

Ride safely.

-Skip