Hate the stock Niken battery terminal posts

[maximNikenGT]

My goodness how I hate the stock battery terminals of the Yamaha Niken GT. 🤬 For some reason they found it necessary to go with a design that requires you to use a small wrench to secure a locking nut on the backside of the post that you screw in for both the positive and negative terminals.

I've managed to drop the stupid locking nut so many times into the nether regions of the bike that when I switch batteries I'm going to a battery post design where they don't have that stupid locking nut. 

Has anyone utilized a different battery terminal post solution for these? 

[dazzler24]

2 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

My goodness how I hate the stock battery terminals of the Yamaha Niken GT. 🤬 For some reason they found it necessary to go with a design that requires you to use a small wrench to secure a locking nut on the backside of the post that you screw in for both the positive and negative terminals.

I've managed to drop the stupid locking nut so many times into the nether regions of the bike that when I switch batteries I'm going to a battery post design where they don't have that stupid locking nut. 

Has anyone utilized a different battery terminal post solution for these? 

Ha! It's a whole lotta fun isn't it!  I've used the solution suggested by KellyL as well after struggling for an interminable time trying to tell myself that I can do this without assistance before giving up in frustration and jamming the nut in place.

[knyte]

This is reason # 45967 I have a telescopic magnet on hand at all times

[maximNikenGT]

11 hours ago, KellyL said:

It's a standard Yuasa terminal. Just wedge the tip of a large ziptie under the nut when you're loosening/tightening it, and it won't go anywhere.

A rectangular terminal nut should fit in the Yuasa's terminal. Just use one from another dead motorcycle battery.

Alternately, replace the battery with a Motobatt when it's worn out - these have threaded M5 terminals and included hex head bolts.

Is the Motobatt design actually better? Seems like the Noco design is better at first blush. 

[NikenLee]

Yuasa/GS over here have a rectangular nut as standard, so it doesn't turn.  Piece of cardboard underneath the nut so it is easier to start the bolt.

[skipperT]

On 2/8/2022 at 3:18 PM, NikenLee said:

Yuasa/GS over here have a rectangular nut as standard, so it doesn't turn.  Piece of cardboard underneath the nut so it is easier to start the bolt.

Ok I can’t sit on the side lines on this one any longer…

Just use a slightly longer bolt! Add 2mm or so to the stock length if you don’t want to screw around with cardboard or fuel line or zip ties under the battery nuts. 

-Skip

Edited February 10, 2022 by skipperT

[bwringer]

22 hours ago, skipperT said:

Ok I can’t sit on the side lines on this one any longer…

Just use a slightly longer bolt! Add 2mm or so to the stock length if you don’t want to screw around with cardboard or fuel line or zip ties under the battery nuts. 

-Skip

Just be VERY careful that you don't go too long and drive the end of the bolt into the battery. Hate to say it, but I've seen people get frustrated and do this.

 

There are lots of little tricks for holding those damn battery nuts where you can reach them. A wee teensy bit of foam or cardboard can work as long as you extract it afterwards so it doesn't collect water. I've also used a snippet of plastic tubing, which can stay in place. 

 

I'm a big fan of Motobatt batteries, and their terminals are great. However, you often have to re-shape the connector on the motorcycle a little bit, and/or modify the boot. 

[skipperT]

54 minutes ago, bwringer said:

Just be VERY careful that you don't go too long and drive the end of the bolt into the battery. Hate to say it, but I've seen people get frustrated and do this.

So have I, which is why I said 2mm longer. 
It seems like its really only a problem to get the battery bolts started when people connect more than 1 extra set of leads to the terminals. For example, battery tender plus stock cables = no issues. Add a second or even third set of wires for some accessory and then the longer bolt hack works perfect.

I’ve also seen a difference in length between battery manufacturers and what they supply with their OEM equivalent batteries.  Yuasa and the other good brands do it better than any of the cheaper Chinese ones, IMHO/E.

-S

Edited February 11, 2022 by skipperT

[piotrek]

You could leave the battery alone and pickup power from the main terminal connection to feed a simple fuse block (photo of feeder terminal on my FJ-09).. if there is space. The cover still fits and snaps clean, and you never have to touch that again.

[maximNikenGT]

Coming up on almost five years on my stock 2019 Niken GT's battery <7k miles in that time.  Always been on battery tender when stored and am now looking at replacement batteries because I was stranded once with another bike and the amount of hassle / time lost involved was just not worth it had I paid more attention to the warning signs e.g. Starting the bike  seemed  to take a few seconds longer and/or the starter itself seemed to take more effort to fire, nighttime lights seemed a tad dimmer than normal. 

Want to take a quick pulse check of Niken owners to see what everyone's experience has been regarding:

1. their stock/replacement batteries duration and how many miles/km did it go before you had to replace? 2. Please add notes as to whether or not you used a battery tender or not as well as

3. whether you reside in a cooler or more extreme  environment than normal ex.Canada (extreme winters)

4. Whether your replacement battery actually fit the stock OEM space and if you had to make any modifications to secure the battery. 

The photo attached is from the Niken service manual regarding what stock battery is required : Model YTZ10S, 12 V, 8.6 Ah (10 HR). 

[Ushiro Shimura]

Nice to meet you here.

I understand the stress of dropping the battery terminal nut.
I used two M6x20 stud bolts, two M6 nuts and two M6 self-locking nuts as shown in the picture

At the moment I am replacing my YTZ10S with a SHORAI LFX19A4-BS12, but the terminal shape of the SHORAI battery is different from that of the YUASA, so the battery terminal on the vechile body side cannot be connected securely as it is (the terminal could be bent).
So we have added a nut and inserted the terminal between the double nuts.
This way it has already been four years and I have never felt the need to re-tighten the nuts.