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Foot Pegs Hitting when Leaning


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Is there anything i can do to raise the foot peg location to avoid having them scrape when im on twisties. 2016 FJ09.

I know that on the stock foot pegs you can unscrew the tabs on the bottom which basically just let you know that your close.

I feel as the bike can definitely lean further over but cant do it with these darn pegs.

 

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1 hour ago, Madicalmichaell said:

Is there anything i can do to raise the foot peg location to avoid having them scrape when im on twisties. 2016 FJ09.

I know that on the stock foot pegs you can unscrew the tabs on the bottom which basically just let you know that your close.

I feel as the bike can definitely lean further over but cant do it with these darn pegs.

 

Has the bike been lowered? Are the pegs aftermarker?  I'd be reluctant to grind off the tabs but you could.

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You can remove the peg feelers but you can also get the correct rear spring so it doesn't compress so much when diving into corners.  Have you tried adding preload to the stock spring?

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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If everything is set up correctly it shouldn't be an unreasonable problem, the stock feelers shouldn't touch till around 45 degrees of lean, the bike can handle 52 degrees. You can remove the feelers if you'd like (or leave them and just allow the peg to lift while you grind em, but they'll break off pretty quick anyways. 

I suspect @betoney is correct though and you're running the stock springs which are VERY soft - generally set up for a 160lb load (geared rider+luggage).  

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I had the same issue.  Changing my body position by hanging off a bit helped, but during aggressive cornering I was still scraping the pegs.  I was at 32 mm of sag loaded.   

I finally gave in and spent the money for suspension upgrades.  No more pegs dragging and much improved handling. 

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Agreed with the suspension upgrades and tuning, if not already done.

 

Also, upgrade your software.

https://www.totalcontroltraining.net/riding-courses/advanced-riding-clinic

Get yer arse off the seat. There's no way you should be dragging stuff on a properly set up FJ-09 at any remotely reasonable or unreasonable speed on the street.

 

Lastly, I've seen similar complaints pop up when someone buys a used bike but the bike is wearing an undisclosed peg lowering kit and/or the suspension has been lowered and the the PO didn't tell them.

Maybe post some pics and measurements -- you seemed to hint that it's wearing different pegs, so maybe it's got some sort of peg lowering hardware as well?

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On 5/12/2023 at 7:19 PM, betoney said:

You can remove the peg feelers but you can also get the correct rear spring so it doesn't compress so much when diving into corners.  Have you tried adding preload to the stock spring?

I turned it to two clicks before the last setting on the rear shock and turned the front up two clicks and it does feel a bit stiffer, better? I wouldn't say that necessarily id just say stiffer. 

I have noticed when leaving and exiting the highway, a lot of my exit ramps have bad/bumpy/eaten asphalt with considerable curves and the front does not track well through the bumps. 

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On 5/12/2023 at 8:53 PM, Wintersdark said:

 

If everything is set up correctly it shouldn't be an unreasonable problem, the stock feelers shouldn't touch till around 45 degrees of lean, the bike can handle 52 degrees.

 

How do you know this is the limit?  Just curious 

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1 hour ago, Ride365 said:

There are curves in Florida enough to scrape pegs?

Highway on and off ramps.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 hour ago, betoney said:

Highway on and off ramps.

My dad told me that when it got too easy to drag pegs on highway ramps just riding to work he sold the bike. Funny enough that was a Yamaha triple. My dad always had 1 toy so he traded the moto in on a Jeep, later a boat, and after the boat on a Kawi Vulcan 800 maybe 15 years after the Yamaha. 

Speaking of dragging - I rode the Vulcan 1 winter so my dad didn't have to put it into storage for the winter (I had a 250 at the time and the Vulcan was a much better winter commuter). The Vulcan was a comfortable highway cruiser with low floorboards. The opposite of my dad, if I didn't drag the floorboards by the time I got home, I made sure to ride a particular traffic circle where I always dragged them (at just 20 mph or so).

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The stock front suspension on the 15/16 is undersprung and has practically no damping.

It was that bad that not long after I bought it I attached a GoPro to the front of the bike on slomo to see what was happening to the forks.

Any fast corner was nearly using up all the fork travel, and when bumps or ripples were hit it nearly bottomed out. The front wheel was leaving the ground on high frequency ripples and I'm only 164lbs. It explained why it would run wide as soon as you hit bumps.

Its why I did the front forks first, but adding the rear to the upgrades transformed the bike.

I still broke off the feelers though, but I replace them when I do as they're there to tell you how close you are.

 

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