jeepinoutwest Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 No, not anymore. But it's my screen name on all the bike forums. 2001 Honda Saber - sold 2003 Yamaha FZ1 - sold 2005 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2007 Yamaha Vstar 1300 - sold 2008 Kawasaki Versys - sold 2009 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2010 Yamaha Raider - sold 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 - sold 2014 Yamaha FJR - sold 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 - lemon back to dealer 2016 Yamaha FJ -09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted June 6, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2015 Sorry to read. FWIW, my WR250X (also Yamaha FI) would do this occasionally. My FJ has done it once. Like everyone else I let the display cycle, flip the switch from "Stop" to "Run", listen for the FI to pressurize, then press and hold the button. On my WR, if that failed 2 or 3x, I would give it just a little throttle and it would start right up. One stupid question, you are sure you're in neutral or holding the clutch in with the kickstand down, right? I think someone else said maybe the kick stand switch. Try always pulling the clutch in to rule out a sticky sidestand switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db5304 Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Sorry to read. FWIW, my WR250X (also Yamaha FI) would do this occasionally. My FJ has done it once. Like everyone else I let the display cycle, flip the switch from "Stop" to "Run", listen for the FI to pressurize, then press and hold the button. On my WR, if that failed 2 or 3x, I would give it just a little throttle and it would start right up. One stupid question, you are sure you're in neutral or holding the clutch in with the kickstand down, right? I think someone else said maybe the kick stand switch. Try always pulling the clutch in to rule out a sticky sidestand switch. Thats a good suggestion, but I don't think thats it. In my scenario it is always in neutral, no clutch, on the side stand. It always fires up second push of the start buttons I don't know how I would test and confirm this. To me its really so minor, and never does not start on the second push that it doesn't bother me. I can't replicate it on demand either as if its warm its always right away first try. I don't think anyone here is overly concerned, I think its just good to know its not a specific issue with any one persons bike, its just nature of the beast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepinoutwest Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thats exactly my issue. Def in neutral too. I reset the ecu, no avail. I took it to the dealer yesterday, they were clueless. They will call Yami tomorrow for advice and then want to keep my bike for several days, probably to check tire pressure. 2001 Honda Saber - sold 2003 Yamaha FZ1 - sold 2005 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2007 Yamaha Vstar 1300 - sold 2008 Kawasaki Versys - sold 2009 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2010 Yamaha Raider - sold 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 - sold 2014 Yamaha FJR - sold 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 - lemon back to dealer 2016 Yamaha FJ -09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted June 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 15, 2015 It happened one time two days ago. I immediately thought of this thread. I had just filled up with fuel on the sidestand (not overflowing) and took the time to drink a Gatorade. Did my usual start up procedure except I was in 1st gear and off and on the clutch. Pulled the clutch back in, started to start it, slipped off the button before it caught. Pushed the button again and the starter just spun and spun. Stopped. Right as I turned off the key, the display on the right flashed an "019". Don't know if this is an error code or not. Per this forum, that's a kickstand error code. Turn the key off, waited a good long 10 seconds, turned it back on, and the bike started up no problem. Don't know if that helped, but it's another data point. :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted June 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 15, 2015 I experienced this yesterday at a petrol station. I usually stop the bike by flipping the kill switch to off, then usually switch it back on. For some reason I just left it on the off position. So, I returned to the bike after paying for the petrol, turned the key and waited for the display to end the self test. Pressed the starter. Nothing. Of course, the stop switch was now in the on position but still no start. So, I cycled the key to off then back on and heard the fuel pump energise. The bike started immediately. Someone has already suggested this above I think, but I posit the theory that off the red switch is in the off position when you turn the power on with the key then the fuel pump does not energise. The fuel pump will only energise if you switch the red switch to on and then cycle the main power switch with the key. This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member johan Posted June 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 15, 2015 I experienced this yesterday at a petrol station. I usually stop the bike by flipping the kill switch to off, then usually switch it back on. For some reason I just left it on the off position. So, I returned to the bike after paying for the petrol, turned the key and waited for the display to end the self test. Pressed the starter. Nothing. Of course, the stop switch was now in the on position but still no start. So, I cycled the key to off then back on and heard the fuel pump energise. The bike started immediately. Someone has already suggested this above I think, but I posit the theory that off the red switch is in the off position when you turn the power on with the key then the fuel pump does not energise. The fuel pump will only energise if you switch the red switch to on and then cycle the main power switch with the key. That is correct. Which is why I only switch off with the key and just leave the kill switch in the run position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted June 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 15, 2015 I always turn the key then flip the switch, wait for the pump to prime then hit start. No problems (except as mentioned here specifically). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member jimf Posted June 15, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 15, 2015 Someone has already suggested this above I think, but I posit the theory that off the red switch is in the off position when you turn the power on with the key then the fuel pump does not energise. The fuel pump will only energise if you switch the red switch to on and then cycle the main power switch with the key.I habitually use the kill switch (that's my years-ago MSF BRC training in action), and I pretty nearly always turn the key on before touching the kill switch. (By "pretty nearly always" I mean "I probably haven't touched the kill switch first more than once or twice ever".) I've been making a habit of waiting for the display to finish initializing before I flip the kill switch to "start" ever since getting into the "won't start" case once. Whether by luck or the tune of the bike or dint of my habit of waiting for initialization I've only seen the problem that one time. I heard from a Super Tenere rider that it's a known problem with the Yamaha FI system that it gets into a funny state if you turn it on briefly (e.g. to move it up a driveway) and off again before it warms up. They say you may have to cycle the key to fix that. Maybe that's the problem? I almost never do that, I just push the bike if I have to move it a short distance. I can't imagine what kind of state might persist across turning off the key, though, warmed up or not. 2015 FJ-09 (Mary Kate) 2007 Daytona 675 (Tabitha, ret.) 1998 Vulcan 800 (Ret.) 2001 SV650S (Veronica, Ret.) 2000 Intruder 800 (Ret.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Maybe not the best of habits, but I don't use the kill switch on startup. I have it on before the key and have never experienced the hard to start symptom. I often turn the bike off with the key too. Not sure if there are any ill effects possible from this, but it always starts first try. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lawrenceofsuburbia Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 This is my routine 100%-of-the-time procedure too: never had a failure to start first time. L of S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dmizer Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 I've successfully reproduced this issue several times. I can't get it to happen EVERY time, but I can get it to happen more often. [ul type=disc] [*]Ride the bike around for 30 minutes or more. Just regular riding. [*]Shut the bike off (key or kill switch, it doesn't matter) [*]Leave the bike off for about a minute or less [*]Turn the bike back on and wait for the pump to prime. [*]Attempt to start the bike. [/ul] More often than not, the bike will not (or will be difficult to) restart. If you continue to hold the starter button, the bike may eventually start, but it doesn't run well and takes a couple good revs before the idle settles down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepinoutwest Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share Posted June 25, 2015 My bike is now on its second visit to the dealer for not starting. The fist time June 6th they couldn't determine the cause. Its now been back at the dealer since tuesday and no luck yet. I am out a bike. i will be curious to see how the dealer handles the lemon law issue. Good thing I have videos of it not starting. 2001 Honda Saber - sold 2003 Yamaha FZ1 - sold 2005 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2007 Yamaha Vstar 1300 - sold 2008 Kawasaki Versys - sold 2009 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2010 Yamaha Raider - sold 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 - sold 2014 Yamaha FJR - sold 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 - lemon back to dealer 2016 Yamaha FJ -09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efjay Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Alright so...I don't know if there's any correlation to it but I lessen the throttle slack while I sent my ECU to get flashed. Once I got the flashed ECU installed, I haven't had the cranking issue once. I'm not sure which did it, but whatever it was did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepinoutwest Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 I tried taking the throttle slack out, but that did not work for me at all. I still had the issue. So a FI bike does not have a manual choke, but it must have an automatic one. So it seems like the bike is not getting choke when cold. Maybe the temperature sensor is bad or maybe the computer is not reading the temp sensor correctly? Possible? So far no word from the dealer who has my bike. 2001 Honda Saber - sold 2003 Yamaha FZ1 - sold 2005 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2007 Yamaha Vstar 1300 - sold 2008 Kawasaki Versys - sold 2009 Yamaha FZ6 - sold 2010 Yamaha Raider - sold 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 - sold 2014 Yamaha FJR - sold 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 - lemon back to dealer 2016 Yamaha FJ -09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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