fjay09 Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I saw someone mention this in another thread. If anyone has factory or oxford heated grips could you measure the resistance so we could see if the aftermarket ones would work? I talked to my dealer about the factory grips and he said at the earliest it would be mid November and that wasn't a definite. It would be cool if the bike would control the oxfords. There's nothing to fancy about heated grips it's jut an element unless Yamaha made them with the resistance way off so you couldn't use the aftermarket ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I'm totally interested in finding out how to make any heated grip work with the OEM controls. It's claimed to be part of the "CAN BUS" system, and its' only two wires on both grips, wired in series. This means the power has to go through both sets of grips and then to ground, but they don't show where the ground terminates.. Wonder if they are reading a final total resistance there? And/or if the area network is reading amps into the grips v/s what's coming out at the ground side? The controls have lots of range of heat, so the value received by the ground side would be changing as well, and if we can figure out what that value is supposed to be, it might bypass any "OEM" only design. Beyond that, anyone an X Ray tech with the stock heated grips? One or two films might just prove us wrong/right or way off on our quest if there is an embedded control circuit in the grips, but I can't imagine they have much in there beyond a few resistors to play with the final output value. (And if we can figure them out, we can add them as needed to get the value needed to "start up" the system so it works.) I guess another way is to just hook up a rheostat and crank it around till the system comes on when you hit the right value of feedback. (Assuming it's feedback based.) Anyone know for sure on this? Someone says it has a circuit in there, but if you wire up heated grips in series, AND run a complex circuit, that also has to handle the load needed to heat the next grip, while it runs the circuit, and most circuits don't like to get heated up like that under load. (And last very long that is.) Just thinking out loud for the benefit of everyone who has cold hands this winter, and no factory grips are available, or affordable. (Come on Yamaha, 75.00 sure, 200.00 plus? No way, even with your cool controls.) And you guys know someone in China is going to buy a OEM set, take it apart, and reverse design a replacement set for cheap. Then perhaps Yamaha will price this closer to reality I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member builderbob Posted September 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 25, 2015 This means the power has to go through both sets of grips and then to ground, but they don't show where the ground terminates.. Wonder if they are reading a final total resistance there? And/or if the area network is reading amps into the grips v/s what's coming out at the ground side? According to the wiring diagram, the grips are grounded at the battery/engine ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjay09 Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 Heating elements are pretty simple design. The more power you give them the hotter they get. Unless the yamaha grips work on more than 12 volts like our led headlight which I believe is 24 volts. I'm going to do some more digging tonight and see what I can find Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjay09 Posted September 25, 2015 Author Share Posted September 25, 2015 OK I'll be the guinea pig with the factory heated grips. I just bought a set on ebay for $235 shipped. When I get them I'll check the resistance and see if we can make the oxfords work. Here's the link to the auction below. There was a $20 paypal coupon CMOTORS91 that popped up for me but said it expired today. Not sure if it will work for anyone else http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-2015-FJ-09-Grip-Heater-Kit-Heated-Grips-2PP-H29A0-V0-00-/161682802221 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jo1000 Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I saw someone mention this in another thread. If anyone has factory or oxford heated grips could you measure the resistance so we could see if the aftermarket ones would work? I talked to my dealer about the factory grips and he said at the earliest it would be mid November and that wasn't a definite. It would be cool if the bike would control the oxfords. There's nothing to fancy about heated grips it's jut an element unless Yamaha made them with the resistance way off so you couldn't use the aftermarket ones. I have the Oxford heated grips , they work fine. They come with their own control with 5 settings and is not intergrated to the bikes computor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 So, if it's grounded to the battery, no sensor on the ground side. It's only source of feedback would be via the "hot" side, so I will have to check out that diagram again, and see if it's the right or left grip heater that has the first hook up. (The other is powered by the install of the first grip.) Anyone familiar with automotive CAN/BUS systems on here? I don't know enough about how they work to trace down what "turns on" the stock system or provides any feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted September 26, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 26, 2015 The CAN BUS probably senses current draw. This is how an ECU will know if a bulb has blown without any additional sensors or to switch off a circuit if a fault develops such as a stuck motor. Same theory applies to the heated grips. When the power lines draw current the ECU will assume the grips are connected, as long as the current draw is in a specific range determined by the resistance of the heater coils. Therefore, if you can match the resistance of the Yamaha heaters with after market ones you may be able to fool the ECU that Yamaha grips are fitted. If the resistance is outside the range expected by the ECU then the ECU may shut down that circuit and display an error code. You may find that you can also control the units using the Yamaha switchgear to vary the power delivered. The above is based on past experience working on CAN BUS circuits rather than specific to this bike, so there is a possibility that Yamaha has done something different, but unlikely in my view as the leads do not have any separate control lines, so current draw is the only variable that can be measured. This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted September 26, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 26, 2015 I have the factory heated grips, but am reading this with interest. I found a SuperTenere forum where they are discussing this same thing. One guy there from Columbia got PUIG heated grips to work with the factory dash controls. Another guy measured his Yamaha factory grips, and found 1.5 ohms per side. Seems like someone could also check aftermarket grips for around 1.5 ohms and do a trial run to see if the factory dash controls will work. (do a google search for Yamaha heated grip installation). A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member jimf Posted September 26, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 26, 2015 The above is based on past experience working on CAN BUS circuits rather than specific to this bike, so there is a possibility that Yamaha has done something different, but unlikely in my view as the leads do not have any separate control lines, so current draw is the only variable that can be measured.FWIW, that's exactly the conclusion that I came to. I had wondered if the grips had control units that could be communicated with by e.g. pulsing the current, but there's nothing like that in the wiring. Question: Can anyone positively identify the connectors Yamaha is using? They're pretty unusual in my experience. It would be so much nicer if you could drop the right connectors onto the Oxfords rather than having to cut and splice the bike wiring. 2015 FJ-09 (Mary Kate) 2007 Daytona 675 (Tabitha, ret.) 1998 Vulcan 800 (Ret.) 2001 SV650S (Veronica, Ret.) 2000 Intruder 800 (Ret.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted September 26, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 26, 2015 On the Super Tenere I bought some Sumitomo connectors to match the 4 way plugs used for the grips on the 2010 model. The connectors will have changed for the new model with the same controls & dash as the Tracer/FJ. It's a guess, but the connectors are likely from the Sumitomo catalogue as well. CBA to do any more detailed research but someone on http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?action=forum may have the answer already This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjay09 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 I got my factory heated grips today. The throttle side reads 1.6 ohms and the clutch side reads 2.5 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5000100 Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 I got my factory heated grips today. The throttle side reads 1.6 ohms and the clutch side reads 2.5 ohms. Interesting. A lot of people have been saying the throttle side feels warmer than the clutch side. If I understand ohms correctly, this shows that they are correct. The clutch side has more resistance which means it's getting less amps, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 1moreroad Posted September 30, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 30, 2015 The resistance is probably a measurement of the heating element itself. So the mfr is trying to compensate for the insulation of the throttle tube by making a cooler (lower resistance) heater on the throttle side. The throttle side is warmer because the plastic throttle tube insulates the grip from the handlebar. As has been said on this forum in other posts, you can compensate for this slightly by adding tape under the clutch side grip. Unfortunately, adding tape makes the grip harder to get on due to increased diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 If you look at "motorcycle" heat pads, the clutch pad has more heat tape surface area. (More heating element.) The way I've started to do my heated grips, over the stock grips, and then cover them with grip doggies, it's better to use an ATV or Snowmobile setup, with both grip heating elements the same. (The throttle is thumb type, so both grips are designed to be mounted right on the metal handlebars, so they are the same.) As you can imagine, with just a thin grip doggie between you and the heaters, it can get as warm as you want, and if the FJ's controls will run them, very specific levels of heat can be achieved. So, a total of 4.1 ohms is the stock draw. Time to get to work, and see if I can get this to "see" the grip heaters I have ready to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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