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Stiff key insertion


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Don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but the ignition key on my Tracer is getting harder and harder to get in. You push it in as far as it will go, but it won't turn most days. You have to wiggle it and push it further in (need to push it quite hard) and it seems to go over another detent and finally it will turn.
 
Will get dealer to have a look when I book it in for pre-season service.
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Try squirting some silicone or WD-40 on the key and then insert it into the switch. Do this several times and see if it helps - it did for me....
-CD-
 
2015 Yamaha FJ-09: RaceTech Gold Valves, RaceTech Rear Spring, Arrow Full Exhaust - black with w/Carbon Fibre endcap, ECU Flash, Lowered 20mm front, 15 mm rear, Denali driving lights, Fenda Extenda, Tail Tidy, Corbin Seat, Madstad 22" Windshield, OEM heated grips, Woodcraft frame sliders, Grip Puppies, BadAss Cover (Large)....
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Try squirting some silicone or WD-40 on the key and then insert it into the switch. Do this several times and see if it helps - it did for me....
I HIGHLY recommend NOT using this method... Locks are not designed to be lubed with silicone or liquids. It will gum up the cylinder and tumblers over time and make the problem MUCH worse. 
You need to get some graphite lube:
 
 
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It's cheap, and you can service all your locks with it.
 
I had the exact same issue with my FJ, this really helps it.
2015 Stealth Grey FJ-09 Pilot
Base of Operations: Chesterfield, VA
Farkels? Lots, nothing flashy, but all functional...
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I agree. WD-40 and other liquids begin a buildup of dust & gunk. 
MC Garage recently explored this problem and suggested a free remedy by shaving graphite off of a pencil.  They even suggested just coloring the shaft of the key like using a marker if you have trouble getting the graphite to fall into your keyslot. 
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I think washing out the lock with some solvent is needed at times - the seat lock and pannier locks are very vulnerable to road detritus. The little springly flap does not always seal very well. So, blasting the gunk out with a solvent until it runs clear, allowing the excess to evaporate and then lubricating with graphite might give better results.
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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Okaaaaaay, graphite it is!! I learn something new every day, thanks fellas!!
-CD-
 
2015 Yamaha FJ-09: RaceTech Gold Valves, RaceTech Rear Spring, Arrow Full Exhaust - black with w/Carbon Fibre endcap, ECU Flash, Lowered 20mm front, 15 mm rear, Denali driving lights, Fenda Extenda, Tail Tidy, Corbin Seat, Madstad 22" Windshield, OEM heated grips, Woodcraft frame sliders, Grip Puppies, BadAss Cover (Large)....
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  • 7 months later...
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You can also use pencil lead... Just scribble back and forth on the key and coat it with pencil lead then insert the key a few times. Repeat until key works smoothly
2nd on the pencil lead, that's what I did......
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""Lock-ease" is a graphite based liquid that has been around forever. Works great with frozen locks.
A plastic safe aerosol like CRC QD Electronic Cleaner is effective but I can't see how following with a blast of compressed air would flush out the cleaner given there is no pressure relief outlet at the bottom of the lock assembly. 
Lock-Ease is good but you can also make your own with graphite (as sold for locks) mixed in a bottle with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  Apply the solution to the key as you slide it in and out of the lock.  OOOH, Ahhhh, OOOH, Ahhhh (shake well before doing so) 
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