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Careful when removing the ECU unit


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A couple weeks ago I checked and synchronized the throttle bodies on my FJ-09.  Unfortunately, I somehow managed to break off the small plastic locking tabs (see the connector on the right in the image showing the ECU and the two wire assemblies) for one of the connectors.  The other connector was fine.  Today I was working on changing the spark plugs and draining the old coolant and adding new coolant.  My hands are a bit large so I was having a hard time getting a good grip on the ignition coils so given that the rad was drained I took it off.  It greatly improved my access and ability to get a good grip on the coils.  
 
I just thought I would pass on my experience with the ECU locking tabs for one of the connectors.  If you are careful you don't need to disconnect them when removing the air box to do the throttle body synch or change the spark plugs.  Today I  carefully pulled the ECU out a bit from the slot on the air box and then worked the two wire assemblies out of the notch on the air box that helps to keep them secure.  
 
Any thoughts in terms of securing the connector with the broken tab?  Two weeks ago after doing the throttle body synch (I was planning to do a spark plug change at the same time, but the local dealer didn't have any in stock) I made sure to securely push the connector on the ECU and then used some electrical tape on the edges of the connector and wrapped it around the ECU without touching the wires.  Seemed to work fine.  I will look a bit closer tomorrow to see if the connector and wire assembly with the broken tab can be easily replaced. 
 
 
 
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Maybe a tiny dab of super glue to help hold it in place. Not enough to prevent you from unplugging but just enough to keep it from coming out unintended. I'm sure the tape will work, but I would be worried about it deteriorating over time.

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

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Sorry, I can't picture in my head the whole assembly, but would it be possible to put cable ties over each end of the connector and secure it that way? You can daisy chain cable ties together to make them longer if needed.

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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.................  Two weeks ago after doing the throttle body synch (I was planning to do a spark plug change at the same time, but the local dealer didn't have any in stock)  
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?Now, why were you thinking of changing the spark plugs?  That head looks so clean, as if you just bought the bike.  I change my regular plugs at the valve adjust at 25K. and if I use irdium plugs at 50K and have no problems.  

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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The mileage is getting close to 12,000 km and the factory service manual indicates replacing them at 13,000 km.  My summers are quite hectic as I work in agricultural research so I was wanting to get the spark plug replacement done before we hit the peak of field activity in July and August. 
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Called the dealer in Red Deer today and ouch the wire harness is one piece and a new one is over $1,000 Canadian.  I think I will pass on the new wire harness.  The parts guy suggested trying to find the manufacturer of the connector end itself and then perhaps just replace the connector end.  Not sure about this as there are a lot of wires and it looks like quite a jumble and not as straightforward as a two or three wire connector.  
 
Unfortunately on the ECU there are no really good areas to put a nylon cable tie onto and I would be concerned about the tie being fairly hard, that it could rub the wires that appear fairly thin.  I have had good luck with the electrical tape and may look at something a bit more robust. It is fairly easy to pop the gas tank off and check it.  I recently did a 1,200-1,500 km round trip to Saskatoon with the electrical tape and had no issues and when I started working on the bike yesterday the connection seemed tight and fully seated.
 
Will update as I reassemble the bike.  Got the new plugs back in and torqued.  The radiator was a bit of a pain.  I would recommend leaving the large hoses off the radiator until you get the upper mounting bolts in place, especially if you are working by yourself.  If the hoses are on it makes it more difficult to properly line up the holes so that you can screw in the upper mounting bolts.  The hoses in place tend to pull the radiator down.  
 
Just me and the dogs at home as the family is visiting family in BC.  The steaks are done and the beer is cold. One steak for me and one split between the dogs.  
 
 
 
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Yes I know that's not a Yamaha. That is a picture from Zippers Performance. It is a ECM for a HD XR1200. My XR1200 ECM looks exactly like that and has for years with no problem.
 
I offer it only as a suggestion of a possible solution to your problem
 
 
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"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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Just an update with pics to show you the approach I took in terms of trying to reasonably secure the one cable connector to the corresponding ECU connection on my FJ09.  As mentioned in my previous post I had broken the small plastic tabs on the ECU connection port.  Live and learn.   Will try to be a bit more careful next time.  
 
 
 
 
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