krupted Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Not sure if this is the right place to ask for advice? Admins, feel free to move it if its wrong. 2015 FJ09. Starting just yesterday afternoon I have a shifting problem, but not right away during a ride, only seems to be after my commute. Riding home from work it seemed fine until I got all the way home and I pulled into the garage and it would NOT go into neutral. It was clunking roughly between 1 & 2, then 2 & 1, etc. I couldn't get it to go half way and stop in Neutral. Eventually I did get it after maybe a minute of trying. This AM it didn't act up during the short ride to work but when I parked at work I again couldn't get it to go in Neutral. Eventually I flipped the kill switch and then it was smooth as butter, easy to put in Neutral. Like the engine was loading the transmission maybe? My mechanic knowledge is somewhat basic so maybe that's not it at all. It's not a long ride between the two, roughly 8km's and maybe 15-20 minutes. Maybe the oil is losing its viscosity? It only has maybe 1500km max on the oil that's in it, which was changed in March with fresh Shell Rotella 15w40 (only oil I had on hand, had bought it for the old bike and never used it). My previous bike, a 2003 KLR used to consume oil voraciously and I could tell when it was needing to be topped up because the transmission started to act up (noisy and rough shifting). I used to carry a bottle with me it was so bad. The FJ09, the level looks ok so I don't think thats it. I don't know what else it could be though. Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 Check your clutch freeplay, measured at the END of the lever. Should be 10-15mm when engine is COLD. When I speak about freeplay, I mean the amount the lever moves with very light pressure on it - before it begins to pull the cable. Does the bike idle around 1200 rpm? Or does it seem much faster? -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krupted Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Check your clutch freeplay, measured at the END of the lever. Should be 10-15mm when engine is COLD. When I speak about freeplay, I mean the amount the lever moves with very light pressure on it - before it begins to pull the cable. Does the bike idle around 1200 rpm? Or does it seem much faster? -Skip Ah damn, I didn't even think of the clutch. I'll check that out at lunch. I noticed the other day that it moves with light pressure maybe 4-5mm's at the joint, where the lever bumps against the bracket that is clamped to the bar. I feel like that might equate to more than 10-15mm's at the lever end but we'll see. As for idle, I couldn't tell you. I didn't pay any attention to the idle speed anytime recently but I will check when I go out at lunch. I noticed just yesterday afternoon in the garage that when I finally did get it into Netutral, the idle changed to a faster idle than when it was in gear. Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 I usually have to adjust my freeplay for the engine being cold and then again after it warms up if I want it to shift smoothly. Sometimes I can get it to a happy middle ground and I won’t have to touch for a few days, but freeplay adjustment is the norm for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 I usually have to adjust my freeplay for the engine being cold and then again after it warms up if I want it to shift smoothly. Sometimes I can get it to a happy middle ground and I won’t have to touch for a few days, but freeplay adjustment is the norm for me. Really?? I adjust mine to the proper free play and it work perfectly until the cable stretches and I have to adjust it again after 1000s of miles... You adjust it every time you ride? '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ29ER Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 I usually have to adjust my freeplay for the engine being cold and then again after it warms up if I want it to shift smoothly. Sometimes I can get it to a happy middle ground and I won’t have to touch for a few days, but freeplay adjustment is the norm for me. Really?? I adjust mine to the proper free play and it work perfectly until the cable stretches and I have to adjust it again after 1000s of miles... You adjust it every time you ride?Some people are weirder than others. LOL. But my vote would be to much cable play. Tighten it up slightly and see if it gets better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted June 14, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted June 14, 2018 I usually have to adjust my freeplay for the engine being cold and then again after it warms up if I want it to shift smoothly. Sometimes I can get it to a happy middle ground and I won’t have to touch for a few days, but freeplay adjustment is the norm for me. Really?? I adjust mine to the proper free play and it work perfectly until the cable stretches and I have to adjust it again after 1000s of miles... You adjust it every time you ride? I agree with @duhs10 - Regular adjustment does NOT seem normal, I have never had to do that on any bike I have ever owned. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krupted Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 So I found the problem... My clutch cable is fraying where the cable goes into the bracket attached to the bars. I pulled the clutch and saw a couple more strands break so I stopped touching it and hopefully it will last until I get home when I leave this afternoon. Thanks guys for your suggestions! Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 So I found the problem... My clutch cable is fraying where the cable goes into the bracket attached to the bars. I pulled the clutch and saw a couple more strands break so I stopped touching it and hopefully it will last until I get home when I leave this afternoon. Thanks guys for your suggestions! This is a known issue... hope you make it home.. go ahead and order a new cable '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krupted Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 So I found the problem... My clutch cable is fraying where the cable goes into the bracket attached to the bars. I pulled the clutch and saw a couple more strands break so I stopped touching it and hopefully it will last until I get home when I leave this afternoon. Thanks guys for your suggestions! This is a known issue... hope you make it home.. go ahead and order a new cable Thanks! I am seeing that (looking at a monster thread on here right now about the issue). Called FortNine (my go-to bike part shop) but they don't carry OEM parts anymore, and said Motion Pro doens't make an FJ09 cable. Called a local dealer and they said the same about Motion Pro, so I said go-ahead and order the OEM from Yamaha... $52 and it'll be in Monday. Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted June 14, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted June 14, 2018 Called a local dealer and they said the same about Motion Pro, so I said go-ahead and order the OEM from Yamaha... $52 and it'll be in Monday. Wow, thats one heck of a mark up, but at least you will have the new one in hand. I'm sure you have read the write-up's about swapping the old one out, its not too much of a chore - just dont disassemble the actuating arm or get it out of alignment. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted June 14, 2018 Share Posted June 14, 2018 I usually have to adjust my freeplay for the engine being cold and then again after it warms up if I want it to shift smoothly. Sometimes I can get it to a happy middle ground and I won’t have to touch for a few days, but freeplay adjustment is the norm for me. Really?? I adjust mine to the proper free play and it work perfectly until the cable stretches and I have to adjust it again after 1000s of miles... You adjust it every time you ride? Just about. I may just be being picky; it’s never more than a few clicks. Gotta have something to be obsessive compulsive over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krupted Posted June 14, 2018 Author Share Posted June 14, 2018 Wow, thats one heck of a mark up, but at least you will have the new one in hand. I'm sure you have read the write-up's about swapping the old one out, its not too much of a chore - just dont disassemble the actuating arm or get it out of alignment. I should mention that's the price in CDN funds. I did read about changing it. With luck I won't muck it up. lol. Thanks, Mark Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted June 14, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted June 14, 2018 @korruptor55 - At the risk of pointing out the obvious, make sure you get the updated clutch cable: Yamaha part number 2PP-26335-02-00 The '02' indicates the revised clutch cable, with a reshaped metal tube on the handlebar end that reduces the stress on the cable. I noticed recently on Partzilla that both the original and revised part numbers appeared to still be available, so just thought it was worth mentioning here. The install is fairly quick and easy... as mentioned, search the forum for tips and tricks. Good luck, and hopefully it doesn't leave you stranded! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krupted Posted June 15, 2018 Author Share Posted June 15, 2018 @korruptor55 - At the risk of pointing out the obvious, make sure you get the updated clutch cable: Yamaha part number 2PP-26335-02-00 The '02' indicates the revised clutch cable, with a reshaped metal tube on the handlebar end that reduces the stress on the cable. I noticed recently on Partzilla that both the original and revised part numbers appeared to still be available, so just thought it was worth mentioning here. The install is fairly quick and easy... as mentioned, search the forum for tips and tricks. Good luck, and hopefully it doesn't leave you stranded! I didn't think of that when I ordered... I just assumed they woudl send the new one. Thanks for mentioning this as it made me think about it. I just called the dealer as soon as they opened to check. The lady told me that they don't get a choice of what revision they get, they just ask for something and take whatever the warehouse sends them. I asked if she could see the part number that they were sending, and she could, and it is the right part number (...02-00). Thanks! Current Ride - 2003 Kawasaki KLR650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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