Cycling the ABS Pump

[2and3cylinders]

Well the other day I flushed out the brake system front and rear using the mity vac. And it felt as firm as usual. Then I did the manual bleed but still under vacuum.  IMO either technique requires a very quick suck / pull (but not pulling full stroke so the piston bottoms out in the "crud zone") then closing the port as quickly / sharply as possible without over tightening which will damage the tapered valve seat.  The added manual "top off" maybe did firm it up even more. I did not bother at that bleeding at the front mc port.  Stroke seems shorter as well.

BTW I use an elastic band rather than a zip tie overnight. I think a zip tie is too firm, and a slicone elastic wrist band offers plenty of even pressure.

I haven't ridden it yet because I still have a few more maintenance tasks to complete and hope the longer Barnett clutch cable will be here in another week.  Tough to ride without a clutch.  I'm not sure when I can ride but 🤞

Pics of my means & methods of how I suspend mity vac below caliper bleed port that permits hands-free bleeding.  I suck out the mc fluid reservoir and fill it with fresh DOT 4 synthetic before I start.

[RaYzerman]

It appears there is a difference in how one tests the ABS system Tracer vs. FJR.  FJR has a 4-way connector where one jumpers two wires, hold the lever/pedal and turn ignition on.  Tracer only has 3 wires in the diagnostic connector and service manual requires use of the Yamaha Diagnostic Tool (dealer's computer).  So, you're stuck with go ride on slippy surface and apply brakes.  Be safe.

The idea of the test is to purge old fluid that never moves out of the ABS fluid circuit within the hydraulic unit.  Normal braking bypasses this and it can stagnate and become cholesterol (on earlier FJR's), block fluid flow.  This is not much of a risk on the newer systems, but it doesn't hurt to do an ABS test once a year.  Also good idea to do a quick flush and bleed annually, after you did that first one to clear everything up.  Prevention!

I have had mixed results with vac bleeder, so final bleed is the conventional way.  To ensure you don't draw in air, either use SpeedBleeders or wrap your bleeder screw threads with teflon tape (or even grease) to prevent air going in the threads.  Also good to use a silicone bleed hose and loop it vertically out of the bleeder screw, and this way you'll better see bubbles if there are any.  I also tie the lever to the bar afterwards, doesn't matter elastic or zip tie, the idea is to hold open the port in the m/c so air can migrate up and into the reservoir.

Edited March 21 by RaYzerman

[2and3cylinders]

I have a soft film forming thread sealant on the caliper bleed nipples as well as the master cylinder bleed nipple

I don't get leakage there and can hold neg 24 " mercury

I'm anal about spilling anything on painted surfaces but very rarely even have a drip

Once I'm set up it's a 20 minute operation front and rear with the MityVac this last time I added manual final check and it helped a little I think but it's hard to gauge (pun)