Driving lights for Niken

[maximNikenGT]

Uploaded a video taken with my GoPro Hero6 of my Baja Designs Squadron Sports on settings 1-10, with low beam 1-10 and high beam 1-10. The Squadron Sports also have the amber/yellow rock guards on them. The level 1 settings don't appear very well on camera but it's still plenty bright to oncoming traffic. Level 3 I believe will cause drivers to flash me, and level 10 settings is only for offroad/no one in front of you kind of setting. 

 

 

[maximNikenGT]

Just uploaded a video that  shows differences between Baja Designs Squadron Sport light level settings (1-10 where 10 is the highest light intensity possible). Power is provided  by my Arboreal Systems Aurora electronic switch.

Need to adjust my camera settings for low light but even on the lowest level one setting using amber/yellow rock covers, the lighting improvement is significant over stock headlight. 

Additionally even  as  low as level three, this setup blows away the stock high beam settings.

Will do a follow up test with revised camera night time settings and without the amber rock covers to see what kind of difference the Baja Design  Squadron Sports driving / fog combo lens provides. 

4/28/21 update: must say that highway riding and nighttime riding seems safer in that pedestrians and other cars appear to have less tendency to pull out in front of me. The issue with going into turns and it being super dark has been alleviated considerably, with the need to angle the front lights a little to the outside for the tight radius turns of the highway cloverleafs. 

7/29/21 update: I don't notice a huge difference when turning on high beams when my fog lights are at the lowest setting (level 1). Super pleased with how well the Baja Designs Squadron Sports work and their very useful beam pattern. No longer worried about turning into a curve at night with no cornering illumination. 

[maximNikenGT]

From an owner in Austria who took lighting to another level. 

[maximNikenGT]

On 3/9/2021 at 12:01 PM, maximNikenGT said:

Next project is to set the lighting to be in its lowest setting during regular riding and then have it switchable to max power on high beams, which I confirmed with Arboreal Systems owner Dan Grasseti that the Aurora Black Box actually allows. Here's how. 

You'll actually have to bi-wire the lights using two available circuits on the Aurora Black Box. So you'll start by posi tapping into the high beam wire and running that to the relay switched terminal located between the two ground ports on the Aurora. 

You'll then run one of the auxiliary lighting  wires to the circuit you want to set for regular daytime use. A lot of folks actually set this circuit to take advantage of the pulsing functionality to have the lights flash intermittently. I plan on just leaving the lights on their lowest setting. 

You'll then run the second auxiliary lighting wire to a different circuit that you'll have controlled by the relay switched terminal,and that's it. 

Will post results to see if this works. 

In order to finish out my auxiliary light install I need to configure the auxiliary lights to go to max power when high beams are activated.

These are instructions for how to configure your Neutrino Black Box to do so. 

1. Assuming you're  going to run your existing auxiliary light wires for low beam operation on your Neutrino port connection (ex. port 5555). Positive will connect to port 5555 and the negative wire will connect to one of the ground ports on the Neutrino. 

Positap/splice into the positive auxiliary light wire you're currently running into port 5555 and run that spliced wire into another port (ex. Port 6666). 

2. Positap/splice high beam wire and run that wire into the relay switch port on the Neutrino (this is located between two of the ground ports located on the Neutrino. 

3. Go into the Neutrino app and set both ports 5555 and 6666 to switched. Assuming low beam operation for port 5555, set this port 5555 circuit to activate when no relay switch signal is detected (e.g, no high beam signal). 

4. Set port 6666 to activate when a relay switch signal is detected (e.g. High beam signal detected/on) and set auxiliary light to maximum intensity. The Neutrino will automatically switch between low beam circuit (port 5555) and high beam circuit (port 6666).

Note: if you decide not to set this separate circuit operation as a last step to deactivate port 5555(low beam) when port 6666 (high beam) is on,   since circuit port 6666 will have a higher output than circuit circuit port 5555 (because port 6666 is the high beam operation with max auxiliary light intensity settings) circuit 5 becomes irrelevant.  But if you wanted to set port 6666 to modulate flashing light you or something not with a higher intensity setting than port 5555, you'll need to configure the last switched step. 

Will post final results after I've completed the final configuration and adjust with any weirdness encountered along the way. 

Will need to identify which wire contains the high beam signal. 

 

Edited April 26, 2021 by maximNikenGT
Updated notes

[maximNikenGT]

Option for mounting auxiliary lights on the top of the front fenders along with video instructions: 

 

 

 

[Merculis]

On 1/25/2021 at 10:48 AM, maximNikenGT said:

Saw this posted by a Niken owner in Serbia. Talk about awesome lighting. 

 

THIS is the lighting setup I need.  Did you contact them?  Where did you find that?

[maximNikenGT]

I spoke with the owner via Facebook Niken owners forum. Majority of his lighting is more for conspicuity purposes since he admitted that he thought the stock headlights were fine for where he rides. Majority of his lighting is relatively low lumen LED auxiliary lights. 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/358343504707298/permalink/859168787958098/

 

[Merculis]

On 3/11/2021 at 12:17 AM, maximNikenGT said:

Trying to make sense of the high beam wiring. I found the wiring diagram that indicates color coding at the highbeam/lowbeam handlebar switch. I follow where the headlight control unit is (#79) along with the wiring for the highbeam (#82).

My challenge is where should I tap into the high beam to run it to my electronic distribution module. I would like to tap into it further away from the actual handlebar switch if possible but I cannot tell where the other end of the handlebar high beam wiring connects to from the diagram. Anyone have experience reading these kinds of charts that can help please? 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't suppose you have those in a bit higher definition, do you?

[maximNikenGT]

On 8/6/2021 at 9:48 PM, Merculis said:

I don't suppose you have those in a bit higher definition, do you?

Sorry the website won't allow me to upload higher resolution pix because of a file size maximum.

 

[timbrell]

Did you find which wire was the high beam to tap into?

 

[maximNikenGT]

On 9/24/2021 at 6:32 PM, timbrell said:

Did you find which wire was the high beam to tap into?

 

Hasn't gotten around to doing that final step. Work has been really busy and travel had been picking up. 

[maximNikenGT]

I thought I had decent lighting until I stumbled across these guys on the Yamaha Niken Italian owners Facebook page who were rallying Nikens in what appears to be France. 

Facebook

 

Edited December 8, 2021 by maximNikenGT

[shmilcat]

On 3/9/2021 at 7:44 AM, maximNikenGT said:

Ok - finally got the lights wired up correctly and trimmed to length. Hardest part was actually wire routing. Total time took me almost 5 hours including disassembly, reassembly, adjusting, testing and securing all cables. 

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Any chance you have a guide, photos or video of how to take the side panel off? I want to route some electricity to the handlebar, and would not like to botch things up

[karamurat]

Selamlar, ön aydınlatma kadar arka stop lambaları da çok önemli,çekim kalitesi için özür dilerim

[maximNikenGT]

On 1/18/2022 at 4:01 AM, shmilcat said:

Any chance you have a guide, photos or video of how to take the side panel off? I want to route some electricity to the handlebar, and would not like to botch things up

Also suggest getting a flat piece of cardboard and punching out holes to keep track of all the fairing fasteners/screws. I first started doing this with my BMW R1150R and it saved me a lot of headache when I applied it to the Niken since it has so many fasteners and bolts.