Changing fork oil?

[thewrenchbender]

Anybody have a link or a how-to? Have a couple months to figure it out (will be coming up on first 12 months/8k-ish 
miles-usually do them every other year regardless of miles after the first fluid change).

Never dealt with upside-down forks before. At all. If nothing else figure I’d dump in the same volume of oil I dump out...

Have RTFM, in my experience MamaYama’s service instructions can be a little hard to translate at times.

Not afraid to tear into anything, but am old and grumpy enuff that I don’t need to go buy a bunch of tools that I don’t really need to take things apart without a good reason.

Assume that the fork tubes are off the bike/with the caps broken loose while they were still “clamped” (unless that isn’t done with this type of fork).

Attached pic was the 8k service on my last FJR (going back together w/centerstand&brackets reinstalled), was based on previous FJR experience and input from other guys that put piles of miles on them-looked about the same again at 24k, but saw no reason to yank the rear swing arm again. Was trading it on my ‘20 Tracer goo GT-did it all for the “next guy”...

[skipperT]

Any “upside down“ fork has to be completely disassembled in order to accurately replace the fork oil, as there’s oil located in the cartridge inside  that must be removed. Replacement is by measured mm level from the top of the tube, collapsed, with no spring.

Removing the spring takes a compressor which would needs to be ”jimmy rigged” or purchased. I’ve done them, and you know what they say about the right tool. Removing the inner damper rod bolt takes a good impact wrench and a prayer - 75% of them won’t release easily due to the loctite applied at the factory at which point you’ll need another special tool to prevent the inner part from spinning in order to remove the bolt. 

That’s the best, quick walk-through I can give you. To my knowledges no one here has made a video, although I think @2and3cylinders has some pics of his process. 

-Skip

Edited April 15, 2021 by skipperT

[Jfundo]

Sorry to change the subject, but what work extra work did you put into that 8k service?  That appears pretty extreme.  

[peteinpa]

This will work without special tools as long as you've had no leaks.

I changed my springs, oil weight, and volume over the winter so I bought the special tools. Never a bad thing to have more tools.  

[thewrenchbender]

2 hours ago, Jfundo said:

Sorry to change the subject, but what work extra work did you put into that 8k service?  That appears pretty extreme.  

Uh. Relatively short version is all maintenance performed “by-the-book” just adjusting the intervals slightly. Factoring in riding extended season in an area that uses salt, liquid de-icer and grit, so periodically everything gets anti-seize applied to it, corroded hardware replaced and parts re-painted as needed-and not trying to wash all the crud off after every ride. Only other thing done in this pic was tires-fork oil should be assumed...easiest way not to deal with “frozen” hardware is keep it from happening. Main purpose on an FJR is to get good waterproof grease is sufficient quantity where MamaYama doesn’t typically apply much.

Only part that really sukks is fighting the ECU/battery corner to get to the upper RH rad bolt/s.

[thewrenchbender]

3 hours ago, skipperT said:

<snippage for length not content>

That’s the best, quick walk-through I can give you. To my knowledges no one here has made a video, although I think @2and3cylinders has some pics of his process. 

-Skip

Was what I was afraid of. 

Admittedly have “trust” issues when it comes to people working on my stuff more than I do paying to have it done.

Day job I have been making “permanent maintenance record entries” with my signature/cert # for the past 37 years...

Will make a couple stops locally and do a little tool-shopping. 

Thank you for your response.

Mark

[Jfundo]

28 minutes ago, thewrenchbender said:

Uh. Relatively short version is all maintenance performed “by-the-book” just adjusting the intervals slightly. Factoring in riding extended season in an area that uses salt, liquid de-icer and grit, so periodically everything gets anti-seize applied to it, corroded hardware replaced and parts re-painted as needed-and not trying to wash all the crud off after every ride. Only other thing done in this pic was tires-fork oil should be assumed...easiest way not to deal with “frozen” hardware is keep it from happening. Main purpose on an FJR is to get good waterproof grease is sufficient quantity where MamaYama doesn’t typically apply much.

Only part that really sukks is fighting the ECU/battery corner to get to the upper RH rad bolt/s.

Nice! 

I have trust issues with other people working on my stuff too.  I won't have anyone else work on it unless I know 100% what the issue is.   I don't trust anyone else to diagnose, they don't use their brains.

So you must work on airplanes?

 

[2and3cylinders]

The forks Springs have to come out, so you need to spring for compressor tool (pun) which are relatively inexpensive but the cartridges really don't need to come out.

Once you have the springs out, what I do is fill the forks with inexpensive ATF and with another inexpensive tool that threads onto the end of the rod that makes it easy to grabs it so you can pump the cartridge. Then I drain and do it again and let it drain for awhile and pump it dry.

 I am sure you know you refill the fork with the new fluid with the Spring out and the assembly compressed. Fluid selection is also covered in threads. Then put her back together.

As long is the forks are off you may want to check your steering head bearings.

[SKYFLIX]

See my other posts when I replaced my cartridges with Traxxion AK-20 cartridges if you want to see how I made a homemade tool to remove the cartridges. PVC pipe, Dremel sander and 10 minutes. That's all you need.

[2and3cylinders]

47 minutes ago, SKYFLIX said:

See my other posts when I replaced my cartridges with Traxxion AK-20 cartridges if you want to see how I made a homemade tool to remove the cartridges. PVC pipe, Dremel sander and 10 minutes. That's all you need.

 I just use a big ass straight blade screwdriver it's always worked for me But hypothetically A PVC tool will work too Maybe better Easy enough to make

[thewrenchbender]

21 hours ago, Jfundo said:

Nice! 

I have trust issues with other people working on my stuff too.  I won't have anyone else work on it unless I know 100% what the issue is.   I don't trust anyone else to diagnose, they don't use their brains.

So you must work on airplanes?

 

Yup.

Every other Friday is “database day”...

[Bimbim18]

Is in the same boat about a month ago. I have been working on cars since I was 12 (now 43) but have never had to disassemble forks or anything similar so I was extremely intimidated.

Here is the video I found most helpful.

https://youtu.be/mm2F08Ys_zU

Pay special attention to loosening the UPPER clamp to crack the top bolt. Not paying attention or realizing how it worked I loosened the lower ones and stripped mine a bit then realized oh crap, it's gotta be the top to relieve pressure so the threads can back out (smack forehead)

 

Her is a list of tools I bought, they all worked well and were worth the purchase. The only thing I would change is as mentioned in other posts I wish I had a tool to retrieve the rod after compression during reassembly. I ended up tying fishing string below the nut and pulling it through. It worked but was a PITA. having a second set of hands I'd say it's pretty much mandatory during the compression steps.

I actually had to replace my dust seals though, so you won't need all of these I don't think.

Suspension Oil level guage

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057U9GMG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Compression tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08FT2CR5R?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Fork seal driver

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R6HH4XV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

 

Edited April 17, 2021 by Bimbim18

[thewrenchbender]

5 hours ago, Bimbim18 said:

Is in the same boat about a month ago. I have been working on cars since I was 12 (now 43) but have never had to disassemble forks or anything similar so I was extremely intimidated.

Here is the video I found most helpful.

<snippage for length not content>

 

Thanks brother.

Am still pretty good at figuring out jigsaw puzzles-when I have to-but don’t often feel the need to “for kicks” as I get older...

Regards;

Mark

[thewrenchbender]

19 minutes ago, thewrenchbender said:

Thanks brother.

Am still pretty good at figuring out jigsaw puzzles-when I have to-but don’t often feel the need to “for kicks” as I get older...

Regards;

Mark

Told my wife about 10 years ago I really don’t need any more “atta-boys” or “oh-shites”...and it’s always been easier for me to work on somebody else’s stuff...

And what I learned in the ‘70s working on Dad’s farm machinery designed in the ‘50s was a lot more applicable to working on piston-pounder aircraft/engines that I ever woulda guessed.

Edited April 17, 2021 by thewrenchbender
Felt like it

[2and3cylinders]

I forgot I had to get a seal driver too but you don't need it just change the fork fluid