betoney

I don’t remember the year range but the R1 drain plug works as well. I think it was about $2-$3.

Not sure BBB they link straight from my pic account. I can see the pics now through my phone.... maybe your ipad. They dont come through on my PC either.

Is this the kit you're getting? I see you decided to upsize the rear rather than drop the front... particular reason? I recall you're 15 in the front at the moment (45 rear?). Just curious to know. Yes, that is the exact kit, with the DID VX gold chain. I am currently using the 15 tooth sprocket and LOVE it but have heard that the smaller the C/S sprocket, the more wear you can get on the chain, (tighter turn radius?) so I opted to go up 2 teeth in the rear instead. Maybe I am wrong on the chain wear, but I get my info. off the internet... Stock 16/45 ratio is - 2.81 Current ratio with 15/45 is - 3.0 New ratio with 16/47 will be - 2.93 The new ratio will be close, within a small percentage of what I am currently using.

So I found some notes I posted from several months ago when I did the install. I hope this info helps. I installed the assist/slipper clutch this morning and for the most part, everything went very smooth. Prior to attempting this, in addition to basic sockets you WILL need the following: -XSR900 service manual (chapter 5) -Clutch holding tool -30mm socket -Torque wrench -Thread locker When you get the parts, familiarize yourself with each part and read through the service manual to become comfortable with each step and which plates get replaced. Some very specific steps that you will want to pay attention to - -The judder spring (clutch damper spring) goes in facing out. -The (first) inner friction plate and the (last) outer 3 plates (2x friction, 1x steel drive) get replaced. -The last friction plate is offset by 1 tooth from the rest of the clutch pack. -The pull rod gets installed with the teeth facing 4 o'clock. -The push lever assembly (where the clutch cable connects to) gets aligned triangle to dot when there is tension on the arm, if you align the two marks when there is free play, you will adjust your lever all the way out and will have zero clutch cable pull. Most of this will all make sense when you get in there and have "hands-on" interaction. The 6 post clutch boss and pressure plate gets replaced with a 3 post model, in place of the 2nd, 4th and 6th spring are rubber dampers, very similar to the rubber dampers in a cush drive on your sprocket carrier.

I understand that feeling, it felt awesome to get out for my first 2-day ride this year!

I just ordered the exact same thing, Superlite RS7 sprockets - 16/47 DID, gold 525VX chain. The complete set was $184.

We had some very nice weather here in the Pacific Northwest, so I decided to take an over-nighter to visit a buddy in Bend, Oregon. It was a fabulous 2 days of riding (about 825 miles) with some great beer at the end of the day at Worthy Brewing Company in Bend. Cape Horn, just East of Washougal Wa on the Columbia River Gorge. Post, Oregon. The self-claimed Center of Oregon Worthy Brewing Company Rowena Crest Viewpoint, Mosier, Oregon Klickitat, Wa.

I am at 18,500 now and its feeling a bit sloppy. Time to get it replaced before Summer road trips.

Oops, my mistake. I meant Sprocket Center. Chain and sprocket set for FJ-09.

I am due for a new chain. Any recommendations on brand or tensile strength? I usually see EK, RK or D.I. D. They are usually recomended for 1000cc or 1300cc. Any thoughts are appreciated. I will be buying a full kit from Sprocket Specialists.

Yes, the kit gives you 3 friction plates that you use in conjunction with your existing clutch pack. When I get home tonight I will search the forum and see if I can find the posts that explain the procedure. When I did mine, I got the info from this forum.

If you search the forum, there are several threads, with photos, that outline this procedure. Or look at the XSR service manual and match the part numbers in your kit.

Once you get the new suspension installed and dialed in, you're going to fall in love all over again with your bike!

I agree. The heated grips are worth their weight in gold. I also use a Tourmaster Heated Vest. I took a ride up to a ski resort last week where it was 2 degrees Celsius. Toasty warm. Did I mention it has a heated collar? 8-)

I would think that given the hoopla around this ''improved' platform, if things aren't apparent on a 20 minute ride (gadgets and the seat aside).... it won't be worth the swap, if that is the intent.... IMO. I agree with you, aside from the different shaped seat and narrower handlebars, most of the new models "improvements" are going to be creature comforts (cruise control, heated grips etc.) not something you would necessarily feel on a test ride. While the shock is supposed to have remote preload and the forks have compression adjustment, does that mean that they improved the spring rate or internal damping? I really hope the Tracer/Tracer GT is a sales grand-slam and other manufacturers see what a "stock" bike can offer. Congratulations to Yamaha for producing a feature packed bike instead of offering everything as an additional accessory.

If you order the kit from Partshark then it has everything you need for the conversion, there shouldn't be anything you are ordering separately. They compiled this kit to make the install process as simple as possible. Every part that you have listed (which is provided in the kit) is used in the swap along with your existing clutch plates. You will replace 3 new plates into your original clutch pack. If I remember correctly the first friction plate in and the last 2 friction plates are the ones you replace.

You can use a standard ratchet. You will need a special clutch holding tool to hold the basket when removing the nut. (do NOT try to take any short cuts or use improvised methods on this, you dont want a broken clutch basket) Buy a replacement nut and use Loc-Tite on the threads.

When I had my custom seat made, I was to told to put at least 1,000 miles on it before coming back in for any alterations. Right after getting it made we left on a 2,800+ mile trip to Utah. Plenty of time for break-in.

In the past I have had someone press down on the rear seat, raising the front end, while I slid a block under the header.

I have never used the method pictured but that location is where I put the floor jack whenever I raise the front end.

The seat looks great, I hope it works well for you. A custom/comfortable seat is worth its weight in gold.

I like it. The different color on the lip of the rim gives just the right amount of separation between the tire and rim. Maybe complete the look with the red model sticker on the radiator shroud.

I think that red reflective rim tape would match your bike better than silver. Taylor33 custom rim tape to match my blue fj-09. The tape is highly reflective and high quality. https://www.customtaylor33.com/shop/blue-high-intensity-rim-tape/ Everyone with a red bike uses the red rim tape, which is exactly why I went with a different color. I try to be a little different or have my bike unique in some way.

Stick with the reflective. The bonus visibility is unquestionable.Good point. Regardless of the color tint, they ARE eye catching.

I installed some silver reflective rim stripes. However at certain angles they almost look blue. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them or switch to the silver non-reflective that is a normal silver color.