BBB

Why not use your plasma cutter?

That’s interesting @petshark. Our advanced motorcycling programme advocates braking slowly at the start, to compress the front suspension. That transfers weight forward, puts more force onto the front tyre which increases the contact patch. More importantly, you don’t get the alarming front end dip that panics riders. Once the suspension has settled, then pull like crazy. I appreciate that this takes more skill than just one action, but that’s where I agree with you about practice so it becomes second nature. I practice coming in fast to speed limit changes and braking really hard to slow down to the limit, obviously only when there is no following traffic!

A 40W LED will pull just over 3 amps, so will blow the 2A fuse. You could use the switched 2A circuit as a trigger on a relay, that is connected via a fuse directly to the battery. If the 7.5A is also switched then that sounds a simpler option.

Normally, pops on the overrun are due to unburnt fuel going through the exhaust and it’s common when you swap exhausts and get rid of the catalyst. It could also be a fault in your AIS, which bleeds air into the exhaust to lower emissions.

Mine is a ‘15 @OZVFR and it whines in 6th, less so in 3rd but the sound is definitely different in that gear. I’m at the point with the bike that I only notice/remember it when I read posts about it though. An oil change may help, certainly worth a try. As for the suspension: I rode around the shortcomings for a year or two and the changed the shock to a Nitron version and had the fork internals upgraded. You are certainly not alone in wanting better handling from the standard set up on the earlier bikes. I don’t think I’ve had things fall off the bike, but my mirrors vibrate loose every so often. I do a lot of spannering so fasteners get checked and retightened during normal maintenance. The fairing fasteners are like old friends. And finally, don’t worry about the posting style of certain forum members. Like the gear whine, just tune it out. We (moderators) weed out anyone who consistently crosses the line, but in general this is a nice place to post experiences and get help.

Yep, I could see a pair of reasons for your distraction.

changing lines...no difference in feel changing MC ....should be an improvement

It’s only a few screws to remove the plate so I don’t think it’s much of an issue. Just leave the mounting arms in place and remove the plate itself. I then clean the plate thoroughly and buff out the pitting on the front face and refit. Edit: I also painted the inner surface matt black, so any dirt is less obvious.

I learned a myriad of skills on my advanced motorcycling course, but the one I keep coming back to is best described as alertness. That’s different to paranoia, but it’s definitely related. In a car I can have journeys where I could not describe most of what happened as the attention requirement is low and you feel cocooned and safe. The contrast on a bike is huge, as a lack of concentration is what will get you. Just to take your inside lane BMW example (and I’m not criticising by the way), good mirror observation would have seen him coming and so you could creep sideways in your lane to increase the gap to your side. But, this constant level of observation takes a toll and that’s why bike riding can be so tiring. It’s also why I ride: because it is such an immersive experience and therefore enjoyable because of it. It’s also the reason I don’t commute much on the bike, as I find it detracts from enjoying riding. I think good and bad rides also come with the territory. On my last ride I dropped the bike on gravel and had lots of poor encounters with drivers. I came home and ranted to my wife that everyone seemed to want to kill me that day. However, I also survived every sh1t encounter by being alert. I also think that (UK view here) car driving standards have dropped a lot since COVID, probably due to the lack of practice, so even more caution is required at the moment. Don't give up @Heli ATP, I’m sure your arrival deadline added extra pressure, but some alertness/anxiety is nearly always required on a bike. Reframing that in your mind as necessary, rather than something to worry about may help.

They are super cheap from eBay. I can’t find the exact ones, but here is something similar. CNC Frame Crash Pad Engine Sliders Protector For Yamaha MT-09 FZ 09 2013-2017 Oil Catch Tank. Car Modification Parts. For YAMAHA MT07. Engine Case...

It must be the fricking season for it. I dropped mine on Monday on a gravel, sloped side road that I’d ended up on by mistake. Did a U turn and the front wheel dropped into a pothole, then I slipped on the gravel when I put my foot down. It was hard work picking up the bike on a low friction slope! The SW Motech engine guards took 90% of the damage and 30 minutes of rubbing down then a coat of paint and all is good again.

Nope. JIS is about the cross head type of screw. It’s strange to find the screw so stuck, especially with a brass screw. I can only think that the previous owner overtightened it and jammed it in.

You’re right, I’ve never read of anyone replacing the rear brake pedal. I think it’s because it doesn’t get a lot of use and (unlike the side stand) it’s easy to locate.

The SW Motech guard is aluminium. The weight:protection ratio is really worth it. I can understand a reluctance to pile on the pounds with permanently attached big topboxes, panniers etc but as with your radiator protector, some small additions are useful. Low down weight doesn’t affect as much either. If you get weight obsessed you’ll end up on a diet, with a crewcut and always taking a sh1t before riding.

I was the same @betoney. The first generation jeans seemed to have kevlar patches inside, on the butt and knees, which made them uncomfortable. Last summer I bought the next generation versions which now have aramid/kevlar weaved into the denim itself and the fit and comfort are way better. Maybe worth a try again? I still only wear them for city or local trips, preferring textile pants for longer/faster rides.

Scary stuff, in both incidents. Your first one should give anyone who rides in unsuitable footwear a wake up call. I cringe when I see riders in trainers and no gloves. Having that sensitive skin rubbed off at high speed would be life changing. I have a skid pan on mine, mainly to protect the bike against my stupidity, but I’m glad it’s on there against road debris too. Well done on keeping yourself safe. Oil on your rear tyre could have been very nasty. I hope it’s a straight forward replacement of headers and oil pan.

You’ll need to sit down when you price the oil cooler. I had to replace mine as it leaked, but I would certainly live with the dirt unless you love removing the headers and burning cash.

Sorry @dazzler24, I can’t see a way to undo your phuck up error. 56 by the way.

It would be even more balanced if he took that miniature dog off the saddle.

My beak is proud, strong and never floppy. Check yours is well attached at the root and give it a shine after a hard ride. A protective coat sometimes helps if you’re riding in dirty conditions, and you should always proceed with caution when trying a new route. I prefer a smooth ride as the extra vibrations from rougher conditions may cause some temporary discomfort. If you are still experiencing difficulties with your beak after some basic checks, you should seek professional help from someone who has seen other beaks and who may be able to offer you extra support.

@skipperT is correct. Even using the correct Yamaha adapter and trying with two different models of code reader (one a very recent expensive version borrowed from a friend) I could not read codes on my 2015 UK model.

No luck connecting my 2015 to code readers. I use the DIAG menu as above.

This is so true. I have a 2005 Porsche Boxster and the engine is just behind my seat. You hear a whole symphony of noises due to the proximity, which gave me all sorts of paranoia when I first got the car. In contrast, our 5 series BMW is a remote, insulated experience. I much prefer being connected to the mechanical aspects of vehicles when I want to enjoy riding and driving. But the BMW is great for long distance travelling.