BBB

No driving instructor teaches any student to coast as it is a fail. Using the brakes to stop is how driving is taught now. Brakes to slow - gears to go! Nobody likes to be told that they could improve their driving but any driver...

I’ve been avoiding this thread because after all, gearing change choices are like any other choice; up to the owner. But, misinformation isn’t useful. Brakes are designed to get hot. That’s how they work. Rotational kinetic energy is transferred into heat so you can slow down. On top of that, brake pads are cheap and easy to change, compared to clutch components. I would much rather change my brake pads than the clutch on any vehicle I own. Finally, I teach advanced motorcycling skills at weekends. One of the biggest errors I see is riders approaching corners in too high a gear, and not being able to modify their speed just using the throttle. A high gear requires you to brake, and then you potentially lose the gyroscopic forces that help you corner effectively and you end up going straight on, normally into the hedge. In my view, changing the gearing in this way would compromise the bike’s cornering ability and is potentially dangerous on tighter curves. But, as I said at the start, do your own thing and enjoy your bike and your riding style.

Please post the results, especially if it looks like a 3 year old did it. I could do with a good laugh.

Others have managed without doing it, but I would definitely remove the tank and airbox to make life easy.

teeth on front sprocket/teeth on rear sprocket

Welcome to the forum @Bobbles.

You can undo the tank from the rear and the front, then lift and spin it around so it sits on the rear seat area. That way you don’t have to undo the fuel line and pump electric connections. Obviously rest it securely !! However, both connectors are relatively easy to remove so I always remove the tank fully and lay it down on the floor.

Those LOMO rollbags are great @Dodgy Knees, and much cheaper than special "motorcycling" bags. I have one for camping gear.

Edited for accuracy @texscottyd. 😂

The hydraulic switches are good, just bear in mind that you’ll probably have to splice into the OEM wiring when you remove the old switch. It’s worth taking your time and sealing the new connections with heat seal as that area gets a lot of spray in wet weather riding. Apart from that, they just work, no adjustment needed.

Just for you, I braved storm Alex and ran the few steps to my garage. You should be able to see the straps that attach to the subframe under the seat, then what they look like with the rear seat on, and finally, the Kriega US 20 mounted in-line with just my waterproof trousers and jacket inside.

These are excellent, if a little pricey. Very quick on and off and completely waterproof. Quite low profile if not packed fully and the shoulder strap is great for just picking the back up and walking away. I see they now do a tank bag attachment so you can put it on front or back of the bike. The attachment straps live permanently under the passenger seat on mine. KRIEGA | Official website - Online Store —KRIEGA US-20 DRYPACK Universal-fit waterproof luggage system for Street, Modern Classic...

I use a similar approach to @betoney, as in nothing permanently attached. I use this pack, which has its own straps that quickly attach to the rear grab rails. I can fit a small gas stove and pot in there if I fancy a hot lunch or fresh coffee, or anything that fits in there. There are lots of good packs and gizmos from the bikepacking community that can be repurposed. Acepac Minima Pot Bag - black - Bike24 Acepac ▶ Compact solution for transporting your cooking equipment...

@keithu has.

Good looking bike @wordsmith. Glad to have you contributing again.

I'm not an electronics person, but I thought LEDs didn't respond well to dimming of current. I thought that "dimming" is achieved by modulating the time they are on and off, rapidly (pulse width modulation). So, unless your Aurora sends that type of signal to the LEDs you won't get speed related variation in brightness. [I may also be talking bollocks, but didn't want to waste this chance to show my ignorance].

At least it was a simple fix !

Welcome to the forum @RedBlock. Let us know your impressions when you pick the bike up. And in return we'll suggest expensive ways to modify it 🤣

Yep, sorry, one must be switched live then. I think you said you’ve tried yellow, so it must be blue.

Diagnosis is always difficult with multiple farkles wired in. The only reliable way is to disconnect one item at a time and see if it helps. I’d start with the speedo healer if it taps into the rear ABS sensor in case it is triggering fuel cut at the ECU.

I’m pretty sure one will be ground (black), one will be for rear light and one for brake light. In other words, none will be the switched live that your looking for [These are not the droids you are looking for <waves hand>]

A 4-5mm stainless sheet is probably overkill and may over stress the mounts in an impact as they’re presumably designed for the mass of an aluminium plate. I built a turntable for the bike recently and used 3mm thickness (1/8 inch) mild steel, to support the entire weight of the bike. That plate doesn’t bend when the bike’s mass is put through two contact points on the centre stand. Four screws will probably do too, one in each corner.

I’ve just re-read the carbtune website @Tripletrouble and they insist that they are set up at the factory and don’t need calibration, so I’m interested in your findings. Did you check yours doing something like this?

Good work @2and3cylinders. I was much more lazy and just painted the inside of the plate matt black so the dirt doesn’t show up!

@maximNikenGT, lots of info in here about the spare connectors under the windshield. I’m guessing they are there on the Niken too. I replaced the cigarette lighter adaptor completely, with a dual USB outlet that had a volt meter display in between the two outlets. There are a myriad of these on ebay.