BBB

Bicycle wheel skewer. Remove the adjuster, thread one of these through. Job done. Not my idea, but lots of posts about it. I have one on mine and they work well. Bike wheel skewers quick release clip bolt lever axle cycle bicycle QR skewer | eBay Find great deals for Bike wheel skewers quick release clip bolt lever axle...

I know a few people have adjusted their fork height, normally by raising the forks in the triple trees . When I did mine I used a super-complicated method, jacking up the front of the bike, removing the front wheel, bouncing the forks to settle them when it was all installed etc etc. But, I’ve just seen this youtube video by Dave Moss and thought I’d share it as it shows how easy the adjustment can be. If you’ve not tried it, it sharpens the steering response and about a 5mm raise is a good starting point.

Well the only good news @steve is that it’s fairly easy to fit. You do have to remove the headers though, so make sure you’ve used lots of penetrating oil on the header nuts until the part arrives.

I’m not fully clear what you’re asking @WKE002, but if you need a list of torque values, this is a good place to start.

@WKE002, the risers can be turned through 180 degrees and that moves the bars slightly forward and backwards, hence 2 positions. Yamaha doesn’t acknowledge that you can rotate the bars in the risers, in fact it has an indent on the left which it suggests you align with the riser tops. You can of course do as you wish.

I switch off bluetooth on my phone, then I start up TomTom . When that’s booted up fully I switch on my Sena headset and let that connect to TomTom. It has to be connected first or it gets irrational and moody. Then I can switch bluetooth back on the phone and it connects to the Sena. I play music through Google Play Music, normally using an offline/downloaded playlist so I don’t use my data allowance. Doing it in this order allows TomTom to give me voice instructions, it just fades the music then restores it, listen to music and even take calls if needed. I have a remote control with the Sena, that sits on the left handlebar grip, and I can nudge to a different track or pause music, control volume etc.

I prised up the indent with a small screwdriver. It doesn’t have to be perfect. Then my 10 year old son stood on the rear brake and I spun the sprocket nut off with a cordless impact drill.

This one Ultimateaddons Motorcycle Top Clamp Mounting Attachment Overview What's Included This is one of our most popular 25mm...

Great idea. I’d love to hear whether you think it makes a big difference being mounted more towards the centre of the bike. I dislike my topbox being slung so far aft and up and I “think” it affects the handling, but it may be a lot of false perception.

@WKE002, try riding in B mode for a while and I'm sure you'll find it very smooth. Then STD and it will also be great once you are used to the bike in general. I would do that before thinking about front sprocket changes. If you go down that route, you can alter the number of teeth to give you less agressive acceleration and higher highway speed. But, I don't think it will do much about throttle jerkiness as that is more of a fuelling issue. In all, try the bike first!

You can certainly adjust it at the motor end, there’s a lock nut and adjuster there. It sounds a bit like your cable, or the lever, may be sticking though. Try greasing or oiling the lever pivot and checking all is clean in that area.

It tightens in the normal direction. I used a new one but probably could have reused the old one. It’s a very light nut to hold something on that rotates at such high speed!

welcome to the forum @smckenzie. As others have said above, there are lots of opinions and forum posts about windshields on here. It will come down to your height above the seat and your wallet. Happy reading. I’ve never found it too challenging to either remember to cancel indicators or to look at the flashing green light on the instruments. I found the BMW self-cancelling system a pain as it would switch off when I didn’t want it to. Some people have adjusted the high beam part of the headlight downwards, so that you can ride on full beam all the time and the bike doesn’t have the asymmetric look. That may work instead of a modulator. There has been some talk of electronics that allow LED modulation, but I’ve not seen posts of a working solution.

You put a cable tie around the fork, just below the fork seals. It should be tight enough that it doesn’t slip under gravity, but still allows the fork to move properly. You then go for an enthusiastic ride that puts the bike over a normal range of speeds, bumps in the road and some sharp braking from high speed. The cable tie should now be towards the bottom of the fork, as they have compressed during the ride, but you should have at least 10mm of travel left. This is for the occasion when you hit a very big bump in the road. If the cable tie is completely at the bottom of the fork, you have no safety margin, the forks will bottom out completely. In this case your springs are probably too weak for your weight and riding style. You can add preload and try again but it’s a compromise. If the cable tie hasn’t moved much, you are either not riding hard enough, or you have too much preload.

Is the cap leaking? You may be able to cut a temporary fix from thin rubber sheet if you can find some. From what I can see, you have to buy the cap complete. Part number 4FL-12462-00, which is also used on DT 125 bikes. There are loads of second hand caps on ebay when I looked.

I can have the fuel tank off inside 30 minutes as I’ve pulled the damn thing off so many times now.

You’re welcome to use my garage, but it’s quite a ride for you 🤪 In all seriousness, you’d easily swap a shock within a few hours yourself, or a local independent bike mechanic would only charge a pair of hours.

I have exactly the same risers @Vansflyer and have no problem with the clutch. It might be worth just checking that you’ve chosen the shortest path for routing.

@Stew, changing the shock could be a simple and important first step. Nitron (and others I’m sure) fit the spring to your weight and riding needs and then you can install it yourself at home with normal tools. There’s some height adjustment in there too, as well as much better damping control. I would do this first and then re-evaluate your needs from there. The forks are a different game all together. Changing the internals yourself needs specialist tools, but Maxton will do all the work if you mail them the forks. Removing and fitting the forks is simple, with normal tools.

@Stew, I used Maxton for my forks Maxton Suspension home page And Nitron for the shock Nitron Racing Shocks Both do mail order. I have all the details of what I went for if you’re interested.

Hi @jordon. Transponder keys are only used in certain countries, the UK for example. I was under the impression that you have to go to the dealer to have a new key coded, and you must have the red key as well.

Allegedly, anti-theft, to stop the front seat from being removable without requiring the key in the rear seat. I tried it, out of curiosity and found I could get the front seat off, with the rear in place, if the rubber was absent. Quite what a thief would do then is where I get lost.

Welcome to the forum @Greg57. Everyone seems to find a way to fit side cases and a top rack, so I’m sure you’ll find a solution. Mine’s a ‘15, with Givi top rack and Shad side mounts and it just required a bit of thinking with spacers/washers and which bit goes where.

I’ve been using a tracking device on my Tracer for just over a year now. I’d been looking for a simple, low-cost, no installation version for a while and thought I’d give it a try. The device is internally battery powered, so no wiring, and has a GPS circuit, SIM card and movement sensor inside. You have a separate “key” which you tuck in a pocket and operates by bluetooth. If the bike is moved whilst the “key” isn’t within bluetooth range, the alarm calls your cellphone and starts a GPS trace of the device. It’s been very effective. If I roll the bike off the stand, forgetting to have the alarm key with me I instantly get a phone call. Luckily I haven’t had to use it in anger. The unit is about £150, and is often on sale with vendors and the annual SIM card cost is €36. If anyone is interested, drop me a PM and I can discuss where I hid the unit on my bike as I don’t want to post it publicly. I have no affiliation with the company, but they just sent me a 10% discount code link which again I can send to anyone who is interested. Full disclosure, I get some extra time on my SIM card if you buy one with my discount link. Motorbike Trackers - Gps Device to Buy - Monimoto UK The smart tracker for motorcycles

Welcome to the forum @iitywygms. Care to explain your username?