BBB

Finally. The lockdown rules have been relaxed enough in the UK that I got the bike out today. Warm, dry tarmac even if only 10C air temperature. New chain and sprockets worked well. Triggered the ABS at both ends and re-bled the brakes after braided hose install, but no bubbles at all. Happy days.

My bad. Just got off my ass, unlocked the garage, uncovered the bike and I have an Oxford XD6 on there! Good catch @betoney, the holes are indeed 6mm.

Yes, 5mm, which restricts you to scooter type locks which are normally quite flimsy. CORRECTION: the holes are 6mm Oxford Scoot XD5 Disc Lock - SPORTSBIKESHOP Oxford Scoot XD5 Disc Lock from the UK's leading online bike store. Free... Have you tried putting your lock through the rear chain sprocket? The holes are normally a lot bigger and a thief would have to cut both the chain and the sprocket to remove it. I know it will get oily on this side, but you may not have to buy a new, worse lock.

Would an allen key fit @captainscarlet, despite the hexagonal shape you might get a pretty good leverage with one?

Is that “any suggestions” for where to get a torque wrench from? I have the previous model of this from Halfords. It has a lifetime guarantee and comes with a calibration certificate. Inaccurate torque wrenches are not much use really. Halfords Advanced Torque Wrench Model 300 | Halfords UK Shop the latest The Halfords Advanced Torque Wrench Model 300 is for...

The owners manual for the GT seems to be good. 35-45 mm on the centre stand. A torque wrench is useful for many things on the bike, but the general consensus is that the manual has it very high for the axle nut. I have been using the high value until recently but have now dropped it to 80Nm when I last did the chain adjustment. I’m sure you’ll get others chiming in with the values they use.

Maybe find a graphics decal that appeals to you, to cover the spot?

They look like proper scratches, probably from having some grit in the cloth. You don’t really have many options from here, they’re all going to involve some form of surface coating, like wrapping, painting or if you’re lucky the coloured wax mentioned above.

Have you seen this @captainscarlet Shock Punch Spanner Motion Pro Tool 08-0483 Adjuster Rear Shock Pre Load Shock Punch Spanner. An ideal tool for turning hard to reach lock and... I have the Nitron tool as well, so I’ll measure it for you, but they seem to do 5 and 6mm versions. https://www.nitron.co.uk/buy-online/accessories/tools

I’m amazed how quickly some people can work. You did all that in an afternoon. It took me an hour just to put the joining link and flare it to the correct specification on my new chain!

I like the way the bottom of your screen is painted the same as the body colour @duhs10. Is that something you’ve done yourself?

Yep. Puig touring with spoiler at the top for winter, a Givi 2122S mid-height one and then an ebay tiny thing that just covers the instruments for summer. Also have, but don’t use, the OEM screen and the Yamaha touring one. And....I’m wondering about the powerbronze powerblade so I think I need therapy.

Fitted new chain and sprockets.

Welcome Powerbronze. Can you tell us a bit more about the powerblade screen for the Tracer? Specifically, how easy is it to adjust the height and angle of the screen, do you need tools for example? https://www.powerbronze.co.uk/yamaha-mt-09-tracer-15-17-fj-09-tracer-15-17-480-y104.html

Wow, that link is 60 odd lines long on my ipad!

I have the TomTom Rider 400. Which software do you use for route planning @HGP61?

If you’re all seeing this uneven wear on the same brand of tyre, then they done something weird to the compound design. You haven’t all suddenly started riding differently.

@nanikore I’m not sure of your logic. If you brake more for a corner, you’re probably upright when braking before the corner, so the braking wear is on the centre of your tyre, your actual corner speed will be lower, less lean angle and less wear on the shoulder of the tyre. As for braking bias, you should be doing the vast majority, if not all your braking using the front brake. As you brake, weight comes forward so the front brake is more efficient than the rear (in fact its easier to lock the rear brake as it is unweighted). Plus you have a bigger diameter front rotor and two of them to get the job done. I only use my rear brake at low speeds (traffic for example) and when coming to a stop.

Clarity is excellent, no worries there at all.

Very true. I have a T25 camper and fellow drivers are the most enthusiastic wavers on the road. It’s probably relief that they’ve seen another person who’s mad enough to still maintain these old vehicles.

..or blurple..

We’ll soon cure you of that ! Welcome to the forum @Kevin R

Are you going to let us into the secret of the Green Laser Of Death @piotrek? Does it target deer, lane-wandering drivers or can it be aimed by thought control?

The lines were really good. The ability to rotate the ends to ensure they lay down at the perfect angle for the banjo bolts is very valuable, but apparently not unique to Spiegler. There were plenty of grommets, all in the correct place and tearing out all the hard lines means the only junctions are at ABS, master cylinders or calipers. But, there are two points where you have to mount a pair of P-clips and the ABS signal cable which I really struggled with. In both places there is little access and you have to hold an 8mm spanner and a 10mm spanner for the nylock, whilst juggling two P clips, two brake cables, two grommets which don’t slide well and an aluminium spacer. Many nasty words were said, with much emotion. You even have to trim one OEM mount and paint it. Sub-optimal in my view, but I guess it would be a lot of work for Spiegler if they had to develop a more customised solution.

Got the rear lines in today, as well as wiring in the pressure switch. Managed one round of fluid bleeding and have left the brakes compressed until I can get to them again.