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Close call there @Wintersdark 😨

Hmm. Slightly off thread now people. Please keep on topic to avoid having it locked.

Welcome to the forum @Stew. You’ll enjoy that first ride.

The internal bladder in the fluid reservoir extends as the fluid level drops, that’s perfectly normal. Just push it up to collapse it and top up the reservoir. I wonder if you’ve damaged the rotor when fitting the tyre. If the rotor is at all out of true, it will bind and you’ll have low brake performance.

Ah, okay. There is a drain at the bottom of the airbox. A small amount of oil is okay as it comes up from the AIS system which can scavenge gases from the top of the engine.

As @betoney suggested, this is probably your problem. It’s very easy to miss the front slots.

I have two rubber tubes in front of the peg. These come from the bottom of the fuel tank so should only contain fuel. I think one is to prevent overfilling and one comes from the filler ring itself, for spillage in that area.

This one made me laugh so hard. I may even have this as my laptop wallpaper for a while. 😂😂

This was as close as I could get to the Jodrell Bank radio-telescope today. Seems that even science instruments need to be socially distanced.

Sorry, didn’t make myself clear. I was only referring to the bit where you said you had problems getting the vent hoses off. Of course you need to pull tank and airbox to do the synch.

Welcome to the forum @Max42_B.

I’ve been using the Angels and they were great, but trying Metzeler Roadtec 01 now and they are equally impressive so far.

Excellent guide @Wintersdark, thanks for posting with great photos. For the tank, I find that it easier to undo the two bolts at the rear, leave the two at the front and then you can pivot the tank forwards and upwards. Wedge a piece of wood in there and you have space to undo the vent hoses as well as pump wiring and fuel connector if you are fully removing the tank. The vent hoses are held by thin clamps that are easy to pinch with your fingers and then just pull downwards to remove.

Do you mean abrupt throttle response, a bit jerky when opening the throttle? That’s a “feature” of the mapping I’m afraid.

Helmet lock 🤪 If you look under the seat there’s a curved-ish hook that one end goes under, then through your helmet D rings, back over the hook and lock the seat down. Simples. Just not very good.

I would change the brake fluid completely, a full flush. The fluids are hygroscopic and your symptoms could be due to too much water in the fluid which boils under heat and compromises the ability to get a hard feeling lever. Try also cable tying the front lever hard to the grip overnight and see if the responsive feel comes back. Sometimes the accumulation of tiny bubbles compromises the brake feel and keeping pressure on makes the bubbles smaller so they can make there way back to the reservoir more easily.

Yep, I agree with that. The only time I would change them earlier is if I did lots of very short commutes, where you risk fouling the plugs. But if you get the bike up to temperature regularly then you should be fine. I did replace mine though, but that was because I had the tank and radiator off when fitting AIS blanking plates and it seemed churlish to walk away from the chance while I was there.

Do you always carry these @betoney? Can you loosen the rear axle nut with a ratchet short enough to carry?

Mine is on the right, just because it fits the entry point to my tank bag better, and the blanking plug is on the left. I have a dual USB charger port with voltage read out in the centre. It was an ebay purchase and has worked faultlessly. I had to enlarge the mounting hole with a round file, perhaps 1mm all round and then just used the OEM wiring.

When mine lost coolant it was a tiny hole in the hard pipes on the oil cooler. Thankfully for you it is very rare to fail there, but worth a check.

Won’t it be stable enough on the centre stand, as that is what it was designed for?

Did you have to get a new master link @texscottyd?

I don’t know this for sure, but I wouldn’t wire it direct to battery. I suspect there is internal circuitry that converts 12V to 5V which would be permanently powered on if you do it your way. The current would be low when there is no load, but it still doesn’t strike me as sensible to wire in something that will always be draining the battery when the bike is switched off. Better to piggy back the wiring already there on your left socket and have them both as switched power. Or, just remove the standard socket as you’ll probably never use it anymore. If you need to charge a phone when you park up, I use a small portable battery bank that gets charged in the tank bag as I ride.

That’s the same one I just fitted. 5.7 to 6mm flare dimensions for the chain link. Took me a while to get them to this.

Only £7 for a replacement lock with 2 keys @HGP61 SHAD Top Box & Pannier Replacement Lock & Key SHAD Top Box & Pannier Replacement Lock & Key; Price: £7.030000 | Shad...