BBB

IIRC they gave an 11mm spacing. The diameter is the same as the calliper mount. Mine have a step/recess at each end so they insert in without wobbling, but I’m sure that’s not essential.

Welcome to the forum @hash. I’m pretty sure we have other Polish members on here. @nocny and @Szymon

Welcome @GazC.

If you do go with the SH36 side-loaders, the inner bags are well worth having. You pack them and then just slide them into the cases. The inner bags have shoulder straps too, so at your destination you just pull out the inners and off you go. The only time I don't use the inners is if I want to store my helmet in there.

Time to do the oil and filter change yourself, to get familiar with the bike 👍

As you’re going to the effort of replacing the chain, I would do both sprockets. The front has worn as the left and right tooth profiles are different, which is not surprising as it rotates faster than the rear sprocket. You’ll have peace of mind that all is new and gives your chain the best chance of longevity. You’ll find you have the choice of damped (like OEM) or undamped for the front. I went for undamped and can’t notice the difference. Don’t forget the front sprocket nut as @skipperT mentioned, which as far as I could find, was a Yamaha dealer part. Some forum users have reused them.

<clouds open/deep voice/rays of strong light> GET RID OF THE STROM, YOU UNBELIEVER, BUY THE TRACER, THOU SHALT NOT REGRET IT!! <clouds close/echoes of voice rumble off mountains, light fades, listener left with deep sense of renewed purpose>

Welcome to the forum @WKE002. It’s great to pick up another member from outside the usual countries that buy Tracers. There are lots of options for crash protection and it may be worth considering a bash plate for the underside if the roads are rough. I wouldn’t worry about the stories of twitchy throttles, that was mainly the earlier models. Enjoy your ride when it arrives.

For most tyres it’s psi, as that’s what’s written on the underside of our bikes, or on the info card inside the drivers door on the car, or even on the sidewall of my mountain bike tyres. Except my 535D, which insists on bar, for some Germanic logic. In school all pressures are kPa.

Do you carry tools to adjust the chain @texscottyd?

I was watching this YouTube video ..and realised that I would never be able to adjust my chain unless at home, with the massive breaker bar required to loosen the axle nut. And that’s because I’ve been using the value in the manual. I’d like to know what you do if you adjust the chain when travelling, say on a longer road trip.

I use a torque wrench on brakes, suspension, wheels and engine. Not for small fasteners. I ignore the torque adjustment recommended if you put something on the thread and use copper grease on most fixings unless the manual says to use threadlock. I also ignore the manual values where they have been reported to be too high by forum members. I have three torques wrenches to cover the range of tightening values, the smallest was bought for my pedal cycle. In the end...do whatever floats your boat, it’s your bike.

Could this be a tyre pressure problem @texscottyd?

I can’t see any reason why they should be related @sterlinggold. I, and lots of others on the forum, have swapped to braided lines with no ABS problems. The lines just have stiffer side walls.

I’ve tidied this thread by hiding the posts that seem to be just arguing. If anyone involved wants them reinstating, contact me with a message.

I love the euphemism “investigate” @texscottyd when we all know it means “I already have all the options in my basket and just can’t decide when to press the buy now button”. Do you wait until the second/third/fourth beer, the rest of the household is in bed, decisions seem so clear at 1am? Your browser has already entered your credit card details and you just need to enter the CVC code?

You can also go for undamped front sprockets, which is what I used. I honestly can't tell the difference. Chain tools are not expensive at all and there are lots of good videos on youtube on how to use them. Articles I read suggested that clips links are only to be used where you need to make a lot of quick sprocket adjustments (race bikes) or low engine sized bikes.

Forget the top box! Star Wars helmet 😎

A mode is the most aggressive of the throttle responses, so it can seem jerky. STD mode is much smoother and B mode is for the rain or other dodgy road surfaces, where you may need a much softer “ramp” or generally duller throttle response.

Radiator guard should be near the top of your list. The SW Motech crash bars and skid plate are both good. Mirror extenders are a popular choice too.

It certainly looks like a nice system 😎

That looks different to mine, but mine is a 2015. Presuming they are similar, you move the grey tab down and it unlocks two push tabs from each side. These need to be squeezed together and can be challenging to get enough pressure. There is a proper tool that looks like modfified long-nose pliers, but it is perfectly possible to do it by hand, with patience and finger strength.

Welcome to the forum @Theo. I don't recall anyone posting about this. Do you have a link to the exhaust that you could post? Even if no-one has it, we may be able to see what the design is like. Another Swedish forum member, @captainscarlet, went for the Scorpion Serket as it is EU homologated. https://www.scorpion-exhausts.com/yamaha-tracer-900-exhaust-systems

My clip on screen spoiler decided to shed a fixing today. Good job I carry a cargo net under the seat. @betoney, it was the type you posted a while ago. Brilliant little additional hooks on the main hooks which allow you to tension the net to grab awkward shapes well.

Both, allegedly. There are claims it fixes and prevents corrosion. Personally I’d do roughly as @keithu suggested, rub down with a scotchbrite pad, then smear on ACF50 with a cloth. ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Supplier and Distributor ACF50 Distributor and Stockist