BBB

It was STec performance @Tripletrouble. It was the same guy who did @captainscarlet. However, he was planning to move to France when I got mine done so he may have done that. He used Woolwich maps. I have his contact details if you want to try him?

@Tripletrouble, you can definitely get the spark plugs out with the tank on, by removing or tilting the radiator down. That’s how I did mine when I had the exhaust off. I have the same exhaust as you and felt it ran oddly, as if the fuelling was off, hesitant at some revs etc. I ended up getting the ECU flashed as a conversation with the tuner highlighted that he had been in touch with Scorpion about how bad the fuelling was after fitting. He thinks they can claim it doesn’t need a flash as it is “okay” unmapped, but is far from optimal. Another thought from conversation on here is that we think ECU maps are designed for the baffles being out, so if you go down that route, modifying the baffle can help.

Not to my knowledge. I unplugged mine before I had the flash installed, using this kit. AIS Valve Removal kit with Block Off plates Yamaha MT-09 XSR 900 FJ-09 Tracer <p> The AIS Valve Removal kit by SmartMoto will let you remove the AIS... You’ll see that it has a wiring plug adapter, but I thought it was just to cover up the empty socket. The only things I can suggest are: - remove and refit the ECU in case you didn’t quite get the wirings connectors seated properly - ask your ECU flash vendor to confirm AIS is off and that it shouldn’t throw an engine check light.

I’m not an expert, but my understanding is that it is common for an ECU flash to turn off the AIS system. Air Induction System allows extra air into the mix when you decelerate, to dilute the otherwise unburnt fuel. If AIS is switched off, the the unburnt fuel can cause backfires in aftermarket exhausts.

When I hit mine, not as spectacularly as you did, I managed to reshape the plate using a lump hammer. The brackets straightened easily, but I had to redrill one of the mounting holes.

The screw insertion point is well away from the tyre @WKE002, so no problem there. It’s the edges of your extender that are close. When I fitted mine I took the OEM fender off and clamped the extender for a while. I also used plastic rivets to hold it together as I was worried about the consequences if it came off while I was riding. You can see the clearance I have on mine in this thread. You may have to adjust your gaps.

Back on topic..... How easy is it to read the alignment marks @RandyN? The axle looks to have covered the vertical line, but I’m guessing it’s just the angle of the photo.

Try and remove as much surface oil as possible with paper towel or rags. Paraffin/kerosene is probably your best solvent, if you can pour it into a cheap pump spray (as used for spraying plants) then spray the tyre and wipe off. There’s a thread on here from a while ago where someone else did pretty much the same as you and their tyre was fully coated. I’ll try and find it. EDIT: thread on replacing oil pan And his blog about it An Open Letter to Yamaha – 4theriders And reading it implies he replaced both tyres after the accident.

Welcome to the forum @Andyff013

I think we just have many more bike stealing scrotes in the UK 😢

I think it’s 1-2-3 as the valve clearance checks are done in that order.

Horizontal 😉

The same experience for me: a weird, wobbly, disconnected feeling with an airhawk, even when almost fully deflated. I might try it again for longer journeys, but I’m rarely on motorways for long, preferring to take longer to get somewhere and enjoy twistier roads.

@PhotoAl, changing pads to HH rated will be a good upgrade and easy to do.

Hi @yamtracergaz, the one piece MT09 seat is a very different shape so won’t fit. Also, my recollection from threads on here is that the Yamaha comfort seat is at best a minimal improvement. I tried getting the standard seat modified with a gel insert and it was no better. I ended up getting a Bagster seat and propping up the front of the tank slightly with washers (there was a recent thread on how to do this). It’s an improvement, but standing up on the pegs and shifting your riding position regularly is a much cheaper solution.

I removed just the front section of foam, it’s just about allowing more air into the airbox. I also shortened the internal snorkel, this is to try and smooth out the air flow path and ultimately, more air in. Unfortunately I did these at the same time as flashing the ECU, swapping the exhaust and changing the air filter for a K&N version, so I can’t decouple the effects. There’s certainly no deficit, the induction noise is slightly louder and the overall acceleration is much smoother. I suspect the major factor is the ECU flash.

In the UK, most car mirrors are below the level of our handlebars and the rest of the bike is narrow. I find filtering really easy and being sat high up gives you a great view for planning how to get through traffic.

cemetery....dead quiet 😂

So far, the only tool I’ve had to use on the road was a spanner to tighten the mirrors when they came loose and folded in.

Great news on your suspension upgrade @stew and a perfect description of the removal of drama that happens when the front and back wheels just work well. I’d support @2and3cylinders suggestion of a zip tie. It takes seconds to put on and is pretty cool to see how much your forks dive on strong braking, even if just for peace of mind. I went through a phase of thinking I had reached suspension perfection, just after my upgrades were installed, simply because the contrast is so remarkable. I’m now in the phase of gentle tweaks as I’m used to the bike again and am just exploring if it can be even better. Ah, the curse of restless minds (or boys with toys😁).

Even better is if you can get your hands on some glycerol (pharmacists often stock it) as it makes really elastic bubbles. Add some of that to your dishwash/water mix and it makes them super-persistent.

You’re forgiven 😁. It’s a good enough explanation of volume/pressure/temperature relationships. Much easier than arguing frictional forces, tyre wall flex, contact patches, viscoelastic forces in tyre composition etc etc.

Those lidlox are a great idea @Clegg78, I hadn’t seen them before so thanks for the link.

I have one of these for my Schuberth C3, which has a ratchet strap. The metal tongue goes through the ratchet on the strap, then gets locked to your handlebar using the locking carabiner. It may give you ideas for your design. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Oxford-LidLock-Helmet-Lock/dp/B00YBOITQI

Your tuner may reflash for free, but mine was definitely flat feeling on the standard tune with the baffle in. It’s definitely too loud with the baffle out for me, but a few extra holes gave me the best balance of sound and smooth performance.