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Interesting recent opinion on fuel stabilizers from FortNine

I have a hazy memory that the sprocket bolt threads rotate if over torqued. If you can get to the back side of the sprocket you may be able to hold the bolt that way.

If the lamps are 10W for the pair, then they only use 0.8A. If it’s 20W across two lamps you are still only using 1.7A so the auxiliary circuits should cope easily.

Welcome to the forum @Duder. There are as many posts as opinions on both the seat and the screen. Happy reading on both topics!! If the bike is truly stock, then a radiator guard is a great place to start adding things. Mirror extenders and grip warmers would be my next two additions.

Kerosene (paraffin) for cleaning, gear oil for lubing. I use a soft, narrow paint brush to “paint” the gear oil onto the plate/roller joints and that way it only goes where needed and I don’t get any fling onto the rim. This is a very cheap, quick approach.

Welcome to the forum @Alisia. What will you use the storage for ? If it’s just day trips then a tank bag might be better, or a tail bag. They tend to be cheaper and you only put them on when you need them. For lockable storage then side panniers are great, but you have to get up to around the Shad SH36 size to get a helmet in. Topboxes are a bit marmite, but do allow you to lane split. As for shorty levers; a short brake lever is a great update, especially adjustable span versions. There are tonnes of cheap versions on ebay, and if you’re unsure, try one of these first. But expect to pay around £100 for named versions such as ASV. I found that shorty clutch levers require too much strength and ruin my ability to find the bite point. I’d stick with adjustable, full length versions on that side. ASV Levers - FREE UK DELIVERY ASV Levers from the UK's leading online bike store. Free UK delivery over...

It’s a mystery @Stew. Ideally you’d have the tyre/wheel balanced on a manual /static set up as this is better for narrow wheels like motorbikes. It would also be informative to rotate the tyre 90 degrees on the wheel and to see if the imbalance follows the tyre movement. Two other (random) thoughts; tyre deformation is unlikely to occur from storage on a shelf as they aren’t subjected to a high mass static load (as they can be on an over-wintered bike). It would be to swap out the valve, in case there is some weird resonance going on. Wheel Balancing 101 - Static vs Dynamic Wheel Balancing | E-Quipfix Ltd Wheel Balancing 101 - A simple guide to basics of wheel balancing and the...

@KeithQ, there are spare switched outlets under the windscreen.

Sometimes called spindle bobbins. They are well designed I think and should work well. I have these ones. EP Front Spindle Bobbins - Yamaha Tracer 900 ABS (2015+) Key Features of EP Front Spindle Bobbins for the Yamaha Tracer 900...

Welcome to the forum @SleepyC. I would recommend proper riding boots rather than red wellies though 😂

It must be the angle the picture was taken at, but that topbox looks big enough to hide small children in.

You can put out a cigarette in petrol apparently. It’s the air/petrol vapour mix at certain ratios that is explosive. The Vapors Every work site has flammable and combustible liquids. A flammable liquid...

@chris wilkins, the connector is already there if you look closely. It’s just empty and needs the silver connectors that you can see in the photo that @HGP61 posted.

Sidestand filler here. It’s a good excuse to stretch my legs. Top up, wait for some gurgles, top up again, maybe trickle a bit more in. Reset mile counter. Repeat at around 190 miles unless the reserve menu pops up beforehand. I’m never far from a fuel stop do I don’t worry about cramming a bit more in.

I only have the Scorpion slip on, but each joint seemed to have wriggle room. I don’t think I would be happy if the header pipes actually touched the sump, they get extremely hot for a start, let alone the potential for rattling. Can you slacken the bolts where the headers enter the engine slightly, pull the pipes away and retighten? Welcome to the forum by the way 👋

As it’s battery operated, stick it on your tank bag?

Thanks @wordsmith, I too have a couple of pairs of biker padded pants. One specifically for motorcycle riders (even specified down to the style of bike) and one pair from mountain-bike shorts. They both help to a small degree, but give me sweaty parts in warm weather and I'm not a fan of the nappy/diaper feeling you get when wearing them. I have tried: a Bagster seat, a gel insert to the OEM seat, raising the seat, wearing padded shorts, an airhawk pad, doing squats to improve muscle form, stretches to loosen my hip flexors, voodoo, prayer and swearing a lot. I now just accept the situation.

I have the Bagster seat you linked to in the original thread and I can honestly say that it is NOT a transformation. It is a marginal improvement for me, but as it's an improvement of sorts I have stuck with it. Raising the rear of the fuel tank a little bit has also helped. I've just accepted now, that my bony butt will always hurt after a while and so I take breaks and move around on the seat a lot whilst riding. @PhotoAl, the material on mine is a woven pattern, rather than a true weave. It's been waterproof so far.

I have the Beeline moto and quite like riding with it. It doesn’t cope with twisty, odd-junction Welsh roads very well, but it’s easy to backtrack when you realise you’ve made a mistake. I just use the super-simple giant O rings it comes with and it sits between the risers. Universal Elastic Strap Mount This simple, lightweight mount can be attached to almost any bar, whatever...

You may find you have to adjust the gear shift linkage, probably by shortening it slightly.

I found this explanation on another forum and it explains it well. I’ve edited it slightly for clarity. ”motorcycle clutches use multiple plates, which do not free completely from their adjacent plate as they are contained in an oil bath. Consequently, there will still be some spinning of the input shaft when you pull the clutch lever in. Even if you held the clutch in for a long time you may find that although the plates have now stopped, the gear won’t engage smoothly as the dogs on the shafts may not be fully aligned with the mating slots. This effect can also be seen in reverse if you coast to a stop and then struggle to find neutral. The effect is bigger for first gear as the speed difference between this gear and the engine has its biggest ratio. The sliding dog has to engage with a slot that has the biggest speed difference. As you go up the gears, the speed difference decreases and gear changes get smoother.“

Nothing redeems the Yamaha screen, except maybe cutting it in half for summer use. I would go for the Puig touring screen every time.

You could try dropping the forks by 5mm @Stew, or if you can, lengthen your shock to raise the rear.

I agree with you on trail braking. It has many benefits, including keeping the bike more level and stable. But, the majority of your braking is going to come from the front, simply due to the centre of gravity moving forward. Which of course is why the front has two rotors, more caliper pistons and bigger pads. Inevitably the bike will compress the forks. If I put a cable tie around the front forks, just below the fork seal and ride with my fun hat on, that cable tie has moved to almost the bottom of the available travel, leaving a little bit of margin for any unexpected extra compression from road undulation. That's not doing stoppies, that's just braking before the corner and getting the bike settled before committing to a lean angle. And the the upgraded damping that I have gives me smooth compression and then smooth rebound, keeping the bike predictable in terms of handling. In contrast the OEM damping gave lots of fork dive and then pogo-stick rebound. I've never bottomed out a fork by the way, even with extreme braking. I think the ABS would trigger at that point.

A couple of thoughts on this @Jayzonk. Some riders are much heavier than the OEM suspension was designed for, so they adjust the preload to set sag and then find the forks have no range left for bump absorption. In other words, the springs need to be changed for heavier riders. I agree to some degree, with your comment about braking. Ideally the force applied on braking for a corner settles the suspension and the leaves plenty of movement “spare” for bump control. But, as you ride faster you use up the fork travel when braking harder and also my point about heavier riders above applies here too. The final point is about damping control. The OEM forks and shock do not control damping to the same degree of excellence as upgraded components. Even if you are lucky enough to have a rider weight suited to the original springs, you’ll find that lack of damping control makes for a more miserable experience. When you get springs and damping correct for your weight and riding style you end up simply riding well and not needing to worry about the % braking force as the suspension handles your inputs without fuss. I rode my 2015 with standard suspension for several years and found I could ride around the problems quite effectively, but when I upgraded I stopped having to do that as the drawbacks had been removed. I admit that the suspension has improved a lot since the early models, but upgrades will still help with the newer models.