2and3cylinders

The slipper-assist clutch from the XSR and 2017 FJ would reduce lever pull and add a host of other benefits, and whereas there still would be a cable, it would be under significantly less stress and strain.

Other factors you have not included in your evaluation is the effect of the oem hand guards and, based on my limited sampling of every FJ-09 I've come across, is how the adjustable shield assembly has as much as 4~5 mm of fore-aft "play" that causes a rocking couple in the shield over pavement irregularities and fluctuating wind speeds and directions. Grab the shield at the top and push and pull fore and aft and you'll feel it. I also added spacers and high durometer foam dampers on each side at the bottom behind the shield sub-structure but IMO the oem shield is a lost cause. The $25 Chinese double-bubble clone of the oem shield though has posibilities. I now have a bikini shield for hot weather, the DB clone for moderate to warm temps and the Givi tour with A spoiler for temps below 75F.

Now this is a deal if you like flip-front, want Japanese quality, plush, quiet, well ventilated and comfort, AND have either a very large or very small skull that is medium oval to very slightly round. I have ridden in mine (they had a red that was almost a perfect match) for a season now and over 12,000 miles and think it is absolutely the best flip-front, nix that, best helmet I've ever owned. And that includes Shoei, Bell, Nolan, HJC, Scorpion and even Arai. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Modular-Gloss-Black-Kabuto-IBUKI-Lightweight-Helmet-Dot-ECE-P-Approved/182261760893?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=484747392588&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 By the way, the indicated sizing based on my experience is spot on. If you look at the bottom of the page linked, the same seller also has a flat black small Ibuki for $100 (why more?); as I prefer gloss finish helmets but each to their own.

After checking out hands-on ALL readily available 40L +/1 roll-top dry bags I determined IMPO that the CG bag was comparable to all but the really expensive bags and got it on sale 10% off listed. What they don't tell you is it comes with 4 pretty decent mount straps and has a 2 year warranty, and often honor defects longer. Probably not what the initiator of this thread is looking for but if you have top and side cases and no pillion buddy, a roll-top is a great means of waterproof storage if you do not need frequent access. And even then if it can be left attached, getting in is actually quick. https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/bilt-explorer-dry-bag

It's hammer time!

-3 is only 27F. Should feel balmy. We've got down to -15F without wind chill already this winter...that's -26 for you Canucks.

Go up to the first 3 photos in post 26

Showing possibilities, not off. I engineered another small, light sport touring rocketship (look for my posts regarding my sportier launch vehicle) with enhanced and added systems to function to my specifications. Priorities in order of importance were: Ergonomics (including air management and conditioning as a comfortable pilot can better maintain concentration), conspicuity (including lighting), brakes, engine response, suspension & tires, electric power system, instrumentation, threat detection, navigation, damage minimization, cargo capacity, and really, lastly speed enhancement. https://www.kapscomoto.com/us/black-anti-vibrate-engine-guard-foot-pegs-w-clamps-1-to-1-1-4-highway-bars-crash-bars-engine-guards.html Available on fleabay and from kaspcomoto (try coupon code "giveme10")

This guy? https://fortnine.ca/en/nelson-rigg-cl-1060-s-sport-tail-seat-bag-cl-1060-s Yes and it also can serve as a bumm bag, and if packed it tight as a back rest; just not as tall, long or wide as the ST version.great for small loads. But usually around town I run my Shad SH46 top case because it's relatively secure and also slim for illegal lane splitting. On tour I add the SH36 side cases and a CG Bilt top-roll 40L dry bag or a top-half cover across the pillion saddle.

Nelson Rig has a smaller version of the same tail bag that isn't quite as long and doesn't expand as much which fits on the passenger pillion better than the St I know because I have one use some rubber drawer liner under it so it doesn't slide as much and strap it to the underside of the seat with just two of the straps they provide four and you can pop off the pillion seat with the bag still on it

My Nomar classic is the silver hammered finish before they change to the white hammered finish which makes no sense I bought it at the Chicago Motorcycle Show few years back for like five hundred and fifty bucks including the balancer and some weights I thought it was a decent price cuz I got tired of taking the wheels off and over to a guy who did it for $25 bucks a wheel (in 2021 he had gone up to $60 per wheel) so it'll take a long time one-third the time to pay for itself get it paid back but as like you I've done friends tires as a favor. Actually as of 2022, I'm almost breaking even... No worries for now anyway about being over 200 pounds LOL I find using enough of their changing Lube makes it a lot easier but you have to be careful otherwise you can have a tire spinning on the rim for a while which would throw off the balance don't ask me how I know

[quote And its just habit, but I pry off the dust seals on the wheel bearings and check the grease anytime the wheels are removed for any reason. Overkill? maybe. Ok, thanks all for adding to my winter maintenance list! Not! I shudder to think how my grease is or is not after 23,000 miles in a year, as I ride in the rain... And I also pull the dust seals and grease at tire changes. Anyone else have a No Mar tire changer and tire balancer like me?

Pio, How many miles, you only said 2 years? I presume you are not in the habit of popping wheelies that would hammer the races and cause notchiness?

Yikes, really?! 100k?! Do you work or are just retired and independently wealthy. I'm going on 64 and will have to work until I'm 90 or later but by then I'll cut back to only 60 hours a week. I've only managed to do about 23,000 miles in 12 months, with only one trip over a 1,000 and most miles 200~300 a ride. Rubber covered pegs, hiway pegs on the case guards, custom Sargent WSP+, lower more swept and dropped bars, throttle lock, OEM heated grips, bikini-stock copy double bubble & a Givi tour with MRW spoiler screens depending on weather, reflective wheel rim tape, dual Fiamm 115 db horns (1 point frontward), radar detector, GPS and smart phone mounts, flashed ECU, LED amber side running lights, twin LED driving lights, LED brake light "bulbs", LED auxiliary brake lights and another set of the front OEM rear turn signals/running lights installed in back and with all 4 lit with LED bulbs. Comfort is no more important to me than safety...

Nice idea but I only run the SH46 top box around town and the SH36 side cases on trips. Now I have to measure my replacement bars to which I added bar end sliders along with the KTM hand guards.

When I worked many moons ago at Convair, we took advantage of the equipment, tools and material throughout the plants for "government jobs". If anyone asked us what we were working on, the standard response given the highly sensitive and security work we did was "Do you have a need to know". The trick was getting out of the plant when we were done.

So, are you going to offer a solid plastic socket to forum folks for sale? I need to adjust mine as part of my winter maintenance schedule and do not relish spending $43+ for a tool I'll use infrequently despite what the prescribed adjustment interval is (which IMO is kind of ridiculous unless you experience a possible related issue). I wonder if the bending tab plate locking washer can be reused more than twice. Also, has anyone considered when the OEM steering stem captured ball bearings and races need replacement going with tapered roller bearing? https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/546a26cdf87002164cb28028/steering https://www.allballsracing.com/ymmsearch/index/searchfromhome/

What length can is that, it appears to be SS with the carbon cap

Yes

I second Vesrah. If you want to downgrade to the 'JL' (note no leading 'R') that's a less race-focused compound. Also not a fan of EBC. I prefer DP Brakes. But Vesrah is my favorite. For Vesrah I do all I my business with www.kurveygirl.com DP used to be called Dunlopad, and I too liked them but they've gotten very expensive and harder to find than even the Vesrah. SBS also used to make some nice pads I think they were bought out by Parts Unlimited and they had a low friction pad I liked for the rear brake which they stopped making unfortunately

@2and3cylinders I was researching this some more and found a forum thread about Better Brakes that listed the caliper spacers as fitting an R6 - See here Thanks, of course STG is out of stock on the spacers but as it will be a winter project I have time. BTW, the Galfer 5 line kit is much less dear than the Spiegler, and Galfer has pads even most expensive thanVesrah. You get what you pay for most often but not always... https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/980/67995/Galfer-Stainless-Steel-Front-and-Rear-Brake-Line-Kit https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/spiegler-yamaha-fj-09-15-16-abs-front-rear-brake-line-kit-orig-routing/?sku=S%7CSP%20S-YA0307-BLK-BLK%7C0&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi7XQBRDnARIsANeLIevpOko-7poIElTBw8LLT4myxK0NTKditm2k3HiwiQxSjSxDijBW-pUaAneREALw_wcB

IMO yes they are worth their price and there are even more expensive pads As I said, I've had issues with 3 pairs of EBC pads in 2017. Not sure about Galfer but the Vesrah are easy on rotors, grab like anchors and wear very slowly...

I believe I purchased the Vesrah pads from RMATV / Denis Kirk https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/764/69603/Vesrah-Race-Pad-RJL-High-Performance?term=vesrah+yamaha+fz-09+14-16+rjl+front+brake+pads I installed the KTM handguards and the lower, more swept back Outlaw Racing TH-08 Low handlebars https://www.amazon.com/Outlaw-Racing-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Oversized/dp/B006NYDCO8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=21vttYNMkBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=Z8VFG8HJRKHDHVPT94NQ Consequently, the KTM handguards cannot be rotated upward because the impinge on the brake MC. Would the R1/6 MC with the banjo bolt at the bottom reduce or increase this interface conflict?

1. I'm not sure what year R6 MC will fit, my R1 MC is from an '06. Much better lever feel over stock. The banjo fitting is on the bottom vs. side fitting on stock MC. 2. Where did you purchase the Vesrah pads from? is HH+ too abrasive on the rotors vs HH? 3. I would be curious to hear your thoughts after fitting the Speigler lines, from what I have read, they completely bypass the rubber and hard lines on the bike. A brief summary after the install would be excellent. What size is the 06 R1 MC? I do not know of any HH pads, as most commonly available pads are HH+. I have found that the recently US manufactured EBC HH+ pads are more abrasive than those from other mfgrs but the Vesrah are very kind to rotors, or at least have been so on the FJ-09. I will be installing the Spieglers this winter and will try to remember to post up my comments and pics. I rung over 22,000 miles out of my 2015 FJ-09 (bought new in July 2016) and another 10,000 on my 110,000 mile 1998 VTR1000F in the last 13 months and thus have a long list of maintenance and mods to do on both. BTW, I'm hoping the new brake line and MC installations will solve my weird loss of line pressure every few months, which has caused me to bleed the front brakes 3 times in the last 12 months.

Resurrecting an old thread... does anyone know where these 12mm spacers can be purchased from?Thanks in advance. +1 on where to get the spacers, and is there another year besides the 2004-2006 R1 for rotors?? I plan on installing Spiegler brake lines from STG (free shipping and they include brake fluid and cleaner) and have been running the Vesrah RJL front pads (HH+ versus OEM only GG friction rating). The RJL provided improved stopping power but IMO only SS lines and maybe the R6 17 mm master cylinder (what years will fit?) will improve power AND feel. BTW, Bike Master sells a 10 mm mirror adapter (black or silver) for 7/8" handlebar clamps that replaces the OEM brake master cylinder clamp (PN 60-0401 Type T2 black). I also installed Bike Master mirror extenders.