dazzler24

I haven't seen these in operation over here in Australia and so wasn't sure that they were in fact legal so I checked and at least in the state of Qld they are (if anyone from Aus was wondering)

@flyfifer - slightly off topic but 61-0 - you'll know what I'm talking about! Go the thistle!

Another great report as usual. It's always heartening when a business has great follow up service like this and doesn't just take your money and send you on your way never wishing to see you again. Two thumbs up for Ride Dynamics 👍👍. Glad you've found your 'sweet spot'.

I'm liking what I see! Good tip and a few to choose from. Sometimes we need to look outside of the 'motorcycle box' (read expensive) to find equivalent stuff that will do the job equally as good, if not better.

@bugie - This is where I have sourced my genuine connectors from in the past. Also for the same reason that you are looking. I like to be able to reverse everything to put it all back to standard if I so desire. It's a Japanese source at reasonable cost. I think these are the ones you are looking for?

Thanks for that info @wordsmith - I've got my Compression set at 14 and my Rebound at 16 ATM as they are the halfway points respectively and went for a 200Km ride yesterday. At the halfway point I stopped for lunch at a nice lookout and was going to set your C & R figures for the ride home but was waylayed by tourists who all wanted to check out the bike and chat and with that distracted me completely and I rode home with the same settings! Old timers disease! Yes I could have stopped but was now late and needed to get home. Anyway, the ride felt waaaay better than any ride I've had with the OEM shock, a little plush perhaps and I guess that would make sense with the rebound at 16, I might be getting a little bounce at the top of the stroke - but I will experiment to find Nirvarna. I think it was Betony who recommended going to a 3rd of the way out from closed initially and work from there so will give it a go. Thanks.

Or if you're not a DIY-er and are happy to spend the cash AU$105 (US~$71) you could just get one of these German made devices........! Maybe this is what the shop guy was using and not just a pencil beam!?... I don't know. Looks like there's a couple of different versions with slightly different characteristics depending on what you need/want. Profi Laser Chain Alignment tool Adjustment / max. Deviation: <0.05% The description says... "Laser motorcycle chain & rear wheel alignment tool. Check chain and belt alignment with laser precision in seconds! Simply hold the Profi Laser C.A.T. against the rear sprocket and aim the laser along the drive chain. Helps minimise wear to chain and sprockets. Ideal tool for the end user and professionals alike"

OK, I don't know exactly what he used but he said he used to race and consequently change tyres regularly and would notice if his alignment was off as he would be pushed wide in corners if it was. I can only assume that whatever he was using it must have worked. I don't get over there often but will try to clarify with him what it was that he was doing/using. .....While sitting here writing this trying to work out how it could be done using any old laser pencil given the info above from @2and3cylinders while getting reasonably accurate results, what about this scenario?..... 1. Clamp a flat straight edge vertically to the back of the rear sprocket/chain. 2. Attach the laser pencil/pointing device to the edge over the chain at a height of say 1/2 metre (the attachment would have to be able to swivel in the vertical and horizontal plane) 3. Point the light at the top of the chain directly below and parallel to the straight edge. The light hitting the chain should be at the same distance from the straight edge as it is at the emission point of the light pencil to ensure that it is now parallel (lock that vertical plane) 4. Now swivel the light to point at the front sprocket. Wouldn't this work? Feel free to machinegun me down if I've missed something fundamental. I'm writing this after having a few cleansing ales the night before so anything's possible. 🙂

Sounds like a good idea. For similar reasons I removed my tail tidy and put the OEM one back on as I was sick of getting coated with a mud stripe.

@betoney - I got the idea from a guy at the local bike shop who said he uses a 'light pencil' to align the rear wheel/sprocket when adjusting chain slack. Another thing I must do. It sounds like a better idea than some of the mechanical short rod type alignment tools that are out there. He said he clamped the light parallel to the wheel sprocket and pointed it at the drive sprocket along the chain. Makes sense as you can't get a straighter line than a laser light! Pointing it so that you can see the spot at the far end removes any parallax error you might get when using the short rod method of alignment. While the chain alignment method is not taking a measurement as such, there were enough brain cells remaining for me to make the connection to using the laser measurer for my sag.

@2and3cylinders - cooked indeed - a good analogy! I got mine from Omniaracing in Italy and it cost me, landed here in Australia inc tax, AU$950 which in the scheme of things isn't bad considering the local distributor is selling them for AU$1300. I see that Revzilla is selling them for US$795 which would equate to AU$1230 landed here. So I feel as though I've been 'well done' but at least not 'burnt' in the cooking analogy 😉 🤑 Cheers

It's funny how colour can affect your speed! I know the red on black has increased mine significantly! I'm thinking of getting the spray gun out and putting a coupla GT stripes (in Red of course) over the tank. Should get me close to Warp factor 1 methinks! 😎

Thanks. Yes it makes it simple if you're on your own. Again thanks. I must say I thought so too 🙂. Just the hint of red against the charcoal. An unexpected little bonus. Cheers.

I carry a basic first aid kit but it's too bulky to fit under the seats and takes up too much room in my small tail bag so the location under the tail on top of the tail light mount is just the spot. Looks like it's made to go there. I secure it with some wide velcro strap which makes for quick release if required. Sure I could put it in some kind of water proof cover but if it looks like rain I'll find room in one of my bags or even my jacket in the short term.

I recently installed a new Razor R after researching the options and putting up with the stock shock for years. I've got to say, like many others who have gone down the path of decent suspension upgrades, it is like night and day. I wondered why I waited so long (oh that's right , it's the large slab of cash that's required that's why!) Having said that, it is a much more pleasing ride all around. The install was very straight forward especially since I had the petrol tank off, that gave me unfettered access from the top (for the top bolt) and made things so much easier to manipulate. I needed to set the sag and normally it's a two man/woman job - one to sit on the bike and one to do the measuring with a tape measure - unless you have one of those fancy schmancy sagometers. No one was available to help me and being the impatient type I had to get creative. Apologies to anyone who may have already used this method. I have one of those laser distance measuring tools (available from any hardware/tool shop) that are accurate to typically a couple of millimeters so I mounted it firmly with some velcro straps to the rear of the bike above the rear axle, inserted some paper into the axle hole to act as a light 'target' and did all of my measurements that way. Worked like a charm and a one person job. 40mm sag front and back now set. I've got the rebound and compression both set at half way for the first ride but will work on those over time. Very happy so far. Here's my 'High Tech' solo rear sag setting method...Patent Pending.

Ha! Hmmm... in retrospect, maybe should have chosen my words more carefully.

@donk - I'm always a bit loath to recommend to others what worked for me will work for everyone else. As we all know one man's meat can be another man's poison and all that. Even suspension settings, SAG etc come into play in the height game. However having said that, for me, the new seat just seems to 'conform' better with my 'land down under' and I felt more comfortable (no pun intended) in putting my original links back in and reset the forks to the top of the triple clamps. My experience with this setup is that: - with the seat in the low position I can almost flat foot but feel comfortably in control. with the seat in the high position I feel (for me) it's just a fraction too high but still useable on flatter ground. My dimensions are: - 5'10" (178cm) - height; 32" (81cm) - inseam And I guess if that at the end of the day and whatever seat you get, you find after putting your machine into the original configuration doesn't work for you, you can always put it back. The exercise doesn't take too long to do after all. Hope that helps. As always YMMV. Almost forgot - I ordered a 'READY LUXE' seat from a retailer which is an off the shelf version. In other words I didn't get to make those choices in the configurator so can't tell you whether it is low or standard. Others may be able to chime in here with more info on that score.

@duhs10 If you're talking about Chromeburner then definitely yes. Have a look at their website if you haven't already done so as they are offering 15% off and 'free' shipping worldwide as per the conditions below. I recently got my seat through them and had a great experience communications wise and quick shipping even with the free option, to Australia.

@jdavis Actually no is the short answer. Well if I had to be real picky, I would say very slightly. However, my previous iteration of seats (I've had a few attempts at getting the original remodeled) would do just that though and that was probably my biggest complaint other than the hardness factor. For me I find that the covering materials used in this Bagster are textured enough to reduce/stop any sliding and the way the base mould has been made makes for a 'flatter' profile. Of course the old waiver - YMMV. Here's a before and after profile view. BEFORE AFTER

Just a quick follow up on my recent slipper clutch install. I've since been for a couple of longer runs and have to say that the experience is different from the original clutch in several ways. In summary:- light clutch lever pull clutch engagement feels smoother and more linear rear wheel and chain 'chatter' is virtually eliminated on downshifting gear changes just feel smoother Initially I wasn't sure that I would achieve enough of a benefit from the excercise but now that it's installed I'm glad I did. If you have an earlier model like me and your clutch is perhaps due for a service (or not!) then it's worth considering making the change/upgrade IMHO.

Based mainly on the glowing advice of @wordsmith , who it seems can't say enough good things about these Bagster seats, I took the plunge and purchased a set on faith. Well, let me tell you that after going for a couple of rides just to be sure, I'm bitterly disappointed and upset! ....... that I didn't take his advice at the beginning and get one straight away! Ha! You didn't steer me wrong there at all wordy. I can see now why you endorse them so much. I got the one with the Bultex foam and it certainly is very comfortable and profiled perfectly (for my posterior at least). So much so that I've even removed the lowering links and returned the bike to standard height as the seating feels so much more refined and 'flat'. You've done very well. Thanks. As they say....Photos or it didn't happen! With protective foam still attached. In situ

OK thanks. I will consider.

@jdavis, Interesting. Can I ask how much that cost as a comparison to a new shock?

Changed the oil and filter and went for a quick run today and pleased to report that all is well. I now have a lovely light, smooth and positive clutch feel. I don't know what I was expecting from the excercise, problems/issues wise, but really happy to report that it just works! No further adjustments or fiddling required it would seem. I'm a happy chappie! Haven't had a chance to 'test' the slipper functions/effect as yet but hope to go for a decent run during next week to give it a good work out. Thanks again to all who helped and advised. Now, next project, onto that rear shock.... I can sense a K-Tech Razor R looking for a new home under my seat!!

Ha, thanks wordy. Hopefully I will have earned the title of doctor and not turn out to be a quack! Dr Dazz... sounds a bit like Dr Nick of that well-known long running cartoon show. "For $1.99 I can perform any operation" 😋 Anyway, I have to thank many from this forum for all of the tips and tricks who helped to make it as painless as possible. I used a heat gun as advised earlier which certainly helped to free the dreaded RED Loctite on the boss nut and of course a clutch basket holding tool. Never attempt to do this without one is my, and others more learned, advice! I didn't have to use my rattle gun after all after following the heat treatment method. I took a photo of the clutch actuator (pull lever) position just before it released from the pull rod when I was removing the cover and I'm glad I did as you must have it in that same position when reassembling for the alignment marks to realign. I was fortunate in that I got it first go for which I was amazed! I installed the 'new' (later model) clutch cable with this project as well and first impressions of the clutch lever pull post op was noticeably lighter and smoother. Three less springs in the clutch and a nice even curve on the cable all contributing I can only presume. Winner! I'm off to get that transfusion material mentioned earlier and do the first (nervous) test later today..... unless Mrs. Dazz has other plans for me now that it's the weekend here. The Kit from Part Shark.. Clutch basket holding tool in action... RED Loctite..... All cleaned up ready for reassembly.... Pull lever alignment position for reassembly....