dazzler24

@Dodgy Knees - I'm assuming this was meant for me so here's a before shot but after the K-Tech was installed. Pretty much a stock standard matt grey/charcoal machine. Cheers

OK be gentle. I had a rush of blood (plus a six pack of beers) last week and got it into my (addled) mind that I should paint stuff! Have I done the right thing? It was only recently that I posted that I like the understated look and now this! It started with the addition of the K-Tech rear shock that happened to come with a red spring. Then I added the red stripe and suddenly I'm in love with RED. As Jim Cary would say....'Somebody stop me!' Feel free to heap A. praise and admiration or B. scorn and derision as you see fit. I'm still not sure if I've done the right thing to be honest, me being the conservative type that I am, BUT it is Plasti Dip so I can peel it right off if enough derision/scorn is heaped! And yes, if it's kept, I must be very careful with my fuel filling - a downside to Plasti Dip. Let the heaping begin!

You're right! Might have to dust off my Oyster card to find the way. 🤔

I think this is what you're referring to? - On my 2015 bike the cable just pops out of the 'U' shaped housing which allows you access to the top nut. Have you released the actual cable from the clutch pull lever first? It's (more) difficult to get the cable sheath out of the housing if you haven't. Once it's out you can adjust away to your hearts content. You may have to fiddle with the top adjustment (at the handlebars) to get it tuned of course. Hope that helps?

@jdavis - I haven't had a chance to follow up on this but are you saying that all four are in the same boot that I took the photo of? Because I see only two connectors as well as a connection that comes in and out of that boot. I think from my vague memory that there is in fact another boot hidden behind the screen/console area that has all four in it and is the one you're referring to? Great info though with that drawing so thanks. I'll get to chasing this up once this hideous heat abates and I can work for more than 5mins on the bike without giving it a bath with my dripping sweat! Cheers

@koth442 - MIne is just a cheapie that I have tinkered with and modified to add some improvements. But to answer your question I bought mine from ALDI here in Aus as a 'Cocoon Create Touch' but like many others like it, it is a rebadged 'Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus'. It's come in handy for many projects around the home as well as a few decorative things for Mrs. Dazzler as well. Gotta be able to justify spending the cash after all 😉

Found a few more options for you to consider! The first one is you... there's that hint of blurple again! Fall back strategy: -

Ha! Yes on both counts but with a bit of good old Aussie ingenuity you could always carry a fence paling and use that through the spokes when you needed to pull up. Might have to practice your 'stoppies' technique with that approach though.😲

Perfect wordy! How much she askin for it? It looks like it needs.. er... a little work... but that would keep you tinkering for a year or two! And it still has your favourite 'blurple' colour scheme!

@chitown, @betoney, @captainscarlet, @HGP61 Thanks to all who replied. I'm wanting to connect up a dash cam via an aux type method. i.e. ignition on = dash cam on. I'll dig around in behind the screen for those connectors that you are all pointing me to. A dim light in the back of my mind has now recalled that connector🙄 - after your prompting 👍 Cheers and thanks again.

Sorry if this has been explained before but can someone please advise me if the two connectors as shown in the photo below are from the 2A fuses marked as AUX1 & AUX2 or other?? And also if so, are they switched power? TIA Grey and Black connectors in boot near R/H fork leg:-

Bought a Renthal Street Naked bar (819-50) and as I don't use the hand guards and didn't want/need to tap the ends to take the 16mm insert, I designed and printed up a couple of simple bar end inserts that have a 6mm thread to accept my existing 'decorative' bar ends. They simply press into the inside of the bars as an interference fit (~14.4mm). Nice and firm without being too tight but allow me to tighten the 6mm screw without the whole thing turning inside the bar. If you have no need to tap the bars but still want to attach bar ends this might be something to consider. If anyone wants the file or a version of it (e.g. different thread type/size) I can send it to you for you to print if you have, or know someone with a 3D printer. Designed: - Rendered for printing: - Printed:- Bar End (6mm):- Installed: -

This is the location on my 2015 version. I assume yours will be the same?

Think it's on the steering head. Have a look from the top down past the handlebars on one side or the other.

I don't think there could be a better endorsement of the machine right there. 🙂

@piotrek - I can only assume that this is not a problem but I'll ask anyway - so no issues with tank clearance at full lock? I have the gilles bar risers installed at the highest and as far rearward that they will go setting with my stock bars so may have to change things if I go down this path. TIA

I hadn't heard of that being used but doesn't mean to say it's not true in some parts of the country! So... Norries mate! 👍 And you're right...back on topic 🙂

I think you meant No worries mate! But I'll take it! Cheers 🍺

My apologies @captainscarlet if I mangled the Swedish Language but in my defence I lay the blame solely at the feet of Google Translate. 🙂 Snälla förlåt mina synder.

C'mon BugsInTeeth! It's pretty obvious what the captain said!..... 😎😉

PM sent. And on the plains?

Closing the loop as promised - new LED flasher unit turned up this morning. Installed it and I now have a normal working indicator system again. Happy days. 🙂 I'm still unsure as to whether the washing of the bike caued an electrical 'condition' that killed the LED flasher unit in the first place or not but I did purchase two units (it was just as cheap to buy two as it was to buy one on one particular ebay store!). If after washing it happens again I'll have to thoroughly investigate the cause. Finger's crossed it was just a Murphy's Law incident. Cheers for everyone's input.

I had my 2015 done wordy for the reasons already mentioned and it was done by a bloke down your way actually - Kevin Hope at Eight Mile Plains. Here's what his flash does/did:- 1/ A/F ratio's Dyno confirmed, custom built on the Dyno then imported into the flash, both the TPS & Imap tables have been corrected for all 3 cylinders. 2/ A different throttle map has been built for every gear, for all modes A, B & Standard, looking for smoother throttle control then ramps up the throttle openings all the way to 100% throttles for a quicker action throttle, with no factory restrictions. 3/ Throttle deceleration tables have been remapped for smoother off & throttle conditions on A, B & STD modes in the FT software, this allows us better smoother on/off throttle control. 4/ Injector shut off removed, no longer need to fit a slipper clutch on the 14to 15 MT09’s, my maps have far less compression braking when the throttle is closed, I have altered the decel maps at zero throttles to give the bike 90% engine braking instead of 100% in the FT software. 5/ All ignition tables have been corrected for each gear for smoother power delivery on all map modes + max top end power. 6/ 5th & 6th gear restrictions removed you will now have 100% throttle openings in 5th & 6th gears in A, STD & B modes. 7/ Speed limiter removed for all gears, rev limiter unchanged I don't recommend in changing the rev limiter there are very little gains in overing this motor. 8/ Default to A or STD mode for 2014 & 15 models, let me know I can make the bike start in A or STD mode if you have a 14/15 MT09, A - mod has been tamed below 10% throttles & ramped up after that to map for a faster ride but with a very controllable throttle. STD - mode has been softened to ride in heavy bumper to bumper traffic below 10% throttles with a slightly stronger mid range over the factory STD mode. B - mode Has been ramped up to max throttles to make B mode more rideable & bit more crisper. I cannot flash the bike to start in B mode on 2014 & 15 models, it can be flashed for either A or STD modes on the 14 & 15 MT09’s. 9/ I can map the AIS system off if you are running an open pipe this will reduce the popping on closed throttle or I can leave it open so it pops on over run. 10/ I run the radiator fan in the flash on at 96C instead of the Yamaha spec 104C. 11/ The Quick Shifter function is enabled in the flash for 2014 & 15 models it only operates above 4000rpm through the tilt sensor. 12/Iif you are worried about fuel range I would run one of my O2 controllers with your reflash, flashing off the closed loop O2 sensor will reduce fuel range approx. 10kms on a full tank.

That does look like a comfy seat.😌