dazzler24

@roadrash83 - Yes I went for a half decent ride (~200kms) yesterday and kind of hoped that the heat and wind would have 'fixed' the problem. I'm going for another one today and we'll see if that doesn't make a difference. Thanks for the suggestion.

@betoney, @skipperT - No the relay wasn't wet at all and neither was it's connector. The relay is a third party completely sealed type anyway and I'd reckon you could put it in a bucket of water and none would get in. But a valid question none the less. The LED blinkers/indicators have bullet type connectors on them and I purchased interface connectors as I don't particularly like changing the original wiring. I did seal/waterproof those connections when I put it all together originally. Further to this I removed one indicator at a time to see if one or more had ingressed some water but nothing was proven on that score. So unless there is a problem at the handlebar switch or elsewhere in the wiring harness (with water ingress), I'm starting to think that Murphy's Law has kicked in and the solid state relay has timed it's own demise with me washing the bike?! Anyway I have a couple of LED flasher relays on the the way so I'll report my findings if indeed that is the problem. In the meantime it's hyperflash time. Better than the other issue. Thanks to you both for your inputs on this. Cheers

@jdavis - you do have a beautifully presented bike there I must say. You've probably mentioned this elsewhere but are the panniers painted or FJR1300 panniers or ....other? Looking good!

I don't know if this is coincidental or not but I washed the bike on the weekend and went for a ride today only to discover that the LED indicators while sort of working are not working as they should. The symptoms are the indicators blink but some of the LEDS within the indicators remain semi lit during the off part of the blinking and the green visual indicating lights on the dash do something similar in that they don't completely blink on and off but sort of dim in the off phase. I have an electronic LED flasher unit installed but changed it out for the OEM one to test. The OEM unit seems to work as you would expect with LED blinkers installed - hyperflashing I think is the term. But at least the system seems to blink on and off - just fast. Anyway I've ordered a new LED flasher relay unit as it seems to be the culprit but if anyone has any tips/clues or similar experiences please chime in. If this had happened and I hadn't washed the bike I'd be confident that it's the LED flasher unit gone faulty but the niggling doubt is in the back of my mind that it's water related. TIA

@coachluciano - I know your seat is sitting firmly with the original rear seat rubbers installed but just for some feedback, the only way I can get mine sitting like yours with the OEM rubbers is to put some 'packing' over the tangs that slot up into the metal frame at the rear and to pack out the latch mechanism at the front so that it moves down (closer to the ground direction). Doing these things removes the 'slop' out of my seat and it sits reasonably firmly with the OEM rubbers engaged on the frame. When you were fitting the Bagster with the bagster rubbers installed, did it actually latch then? I ask because if it did I can only assume that you would have had to really compress those rubbers to get it to catch considering that the OEM rubbers work and sit firmly as well?! Cheers.

Looking forward to your experience doing this. Good luck.

@fddriver2 - Ha sorry. It's an Aussie term (slang) sometimes used here for when you have some kind of accident where you fall, crash generally come to grief etc. R(ass) O(over) Z(head) e.g. - I fell ROZ. Thanks for the feedback on the Zero BTW. Cheers.

@coachluciano - Interesting?! What model/year bike do you have? Sorry if you've mentioned it ealier. Looking again at our seat numbers from our Bagsters it may be that the first four digits are a date of manufacture. Not sure what the number after the slash (/) refers to though? All a bit of a mystery ATM.

@piotrek - This is something that may interest me as well. When you say sweep, are you talking about how the bars angle back toward the rider? I have a set of gilles bar risers installed that are set as far back towards me as they will go but I feel as though I'm still 'reaching' slightly if that makes sense. Maybe slightly narrower bars would be an option for me? Thoughts?

Exactly wordy! Keepin the 'spensive perch pristine.

WHAAAAT?!! It was hot - 37 deg C!

I have heard that they can lose the rear wheel, traction wise, if the rider is not careful in a turn because of that massive and instantaneous torque. Give it too much throttle when leaving the lights and turning e.g. and it can be ROZ ... or so I hear. Interesting concept though and sure to catch on in a big way over time. What's it like not to hear an engine?

@coachluciano - Just out of interest, what's the number that's written on the sticker under your Bagster seat? Mine is - 120719NL0447/80 -5355Z. I think the last bit 5355Z is the important part. I think, and I say think, the other numbers may refer to the configuration of the individual seat. Happy to be corrected on that score if not the case. P.S. both seats have the same number on mine.

OK this went South with confusing inputs. Just to be clear I (dazzler24) was talking about the rear seat as well. That was what your topic/issue was about after all. Now, I too changed out the rubber feet with the OEM rear seat rubbers and the seat (Passenger) went from being stable to a feeling of looseness. i.e. rocking from side to side. From what you're saying based on your experience, Bagster either has a quality control issue or our two seats are different versions or something else....?. You're getting the exact opposite to my experience?? I also think that, like many things in life, different people have different expectations and see things, well, differently. What's fine/acceptable to one person can be absolute c%$p to another. Like I always try to say when doing a 'review' of anything I like or dislike.... YMMV. And ain't that the truth AMEN.

Yes I wasn't sure what year it was in my original post but will ask the man himself when I see him next. I know he bought it from a man in the U.S. who's wife had owned it but had passed away. He wanted someone to buy it but only if they were going to keep it original. Apparently there were plenty who wanted to chop it up and modify it. It still has her name written inside the speedo. Obviously a very sentimental attachment to the machine for the husband.

Only trouble with doing that is that the whole seat then wobbles around if you rock it from side to side. At least it did for me when I tried that. YMMV.

Thanks again Nate and yes I do have the manual. The Corvette - He's polished it up and tuned the engine since those photos were taken. He is a genuine wizard when it comes to engines. Just a touch on the key and it fires up immediately. Beautiful sound. I've been promised a spin in it so something to look forward to! 🙂

@skipperT - Thanks skip for the advice. My bike is still 'young' in miles for it's vintage (a bit like me!) but I did see those comments elsewhere about valves being tight. Your final comment above is probably me I'm thinking. Sage advice. Thanks again.

@Buggy Nate - Removing all ego out of the equation I guess I'd consider myself as reasonably handy with a spanner. My most recent mechanical jobs on the bike was to fit a slipper clutch kit, rear shock, brake bleed, new sintered pads for front brakes - Nothing startling but FWIW. I'm the sort of person who investigates a job to the 'n'th degree before attempting it as long as I have the tools to do it and of course feel confident that I'm capable. On that score (tools) I've got a 'reasonable' arsenal. Thanks for your advice. Also, a neighbour is a retired race engine builder & racer (cars) and knows his vehicle engines inside out so I'm confident he would assist if/when necessary. BTW right now he's putting the finishing touches on his 1963 - (I think) silver Corvette Stingray. Very nice. Steering wheel is on the 'wrong' side though! 😉 A bit off topic but here's some car porn for your enjoyment....

As usual wordy, you are a Cornucopia of useful information. Thanks for the many options to investigate. Aye! I dinnae ken thet! But it's pure barry! - Apologies in advance to the Scottish forum members if I've mangled that but I blame my Son in Law - yes, he's a Scot. 🙂

@betoney - Yes I too like the subtle look. Really just wanting to break up the continuous black/grey on my bike - but just a little. Thanks for the link. Although it looks like postage from that particular vendor may be the killer for me as I live in the land down under. But thanks for the clues as to what to look for. Your white accents look good too. I was thinking red for me but maybe white would work on the black just as well?! Another option to consider! Thanks again. 🙂

Correct Valve clearances eh? Hmmm. I've done a lot of mechanical jobs on the bike but haven't thought to venture into that area. Is it something that is routine and relatively easily doable by me - Joe amateur? Or a shop job.

Resurecting this thread to ask for some guidance as I've searched but cannot find. I can find plenty of discussion on wheel rim decals but wondered if there was a decal available for the grooved line in the side panels as indicated below? Or even suggestions of what others have done/used would be appreciated. I'm actually thinking of doing some rim stripes as well all in RED. .... or should I choose GOLD? I do like the red on black look though and I do have that nice red K-Tech Razor-R installed. Decisions, decisions......🤔 What do the learned majority with a more 'artsy' eye think? Cheers

Some thing a bit different. I made a 3d printed keyring. Not sure if this is a worthy item to be included in this thread but anyway FWIW.......

Reviving this thread. After putting up with the X grip pressing on the power or volume buttons on my Samsung S7 edge, I ended up buying the universal 3m Quadlock adaptor that simply sticks to any case(most) or phone. I opted for a ram mount style adaptor as I already had that 'system' on the bike. This is what I bought. Married that up with the Tom Tom Go mobile app and my Cardo Freecom 2+ helmet comms and I now have flawless turn by turn instructions when required in a nice compact design. Only downside (if it could be called that) is that my home wirelesss charging dock won't charge with the extra space created at the back of the case by the stuck on adaptor - even though it is quite low profile. I have an identical case (knew there was a reason I bought two a couple of years ago!) and so a simple matter of changing over when at home. Thanks go to @jdavis for putting me on to this setup. Cheers. 👍