jthayer09

Cheapest solutions first: $20-$30 windscreen extension/spoiler should be your first stop before buying an entirely new windscreen. It eliminated buffeting from the stock screen for me, this will vary from person to person due to height and riding posture. As far as vibrations go, you can just replace the stock footpegs with the rubber topped pegs from the FJR1300. They're like $10-20 on Amazon or eBay, or the Yamaha adventure pegs if you want to stay OEM. Handlebar vibrations didn't bother me on the 2015 but I did ride with MT09 bar end weights in the summer and handguards taken off which may have helped. Between the 2015 and 2020 models you're looking at I think it's worth the $2000 for the 2020. The 2015 without a tune is not smooth since it was developed in the early days of ride by wire. It also doesn't have factory cruise control hookups or a slipper clutch. It was basically an MT09 on stilts with a reinforced subframe. The 2nd gen Tracers (2018-20) gave the lineup a lot more value than the 1st gen: a longer wheelbase for passenger and luggage, slipper clutch (2017 MY onwards). Also, factory cruise control, heated grips, and luggage with the GT model. If you buy the 2020 model, you'll get the slipper clutch as well as be able to stay OEM for cruise control if you want to add that in the future.

Have you looked into Honda's NC750X? Less power and speed than the Tracer but larger than the CB500X. Very tame ride with 70+ mpg, and a modest redline. The gas tank is located under the seat which means you get a front-trunk for storage where a normal gas tank would be. I owned an NC700X for a few years before I bought my 2015 FJ09, phenomenal bike and the newer updated NC750X seems worth a look.

Your helmet should fit the stock sidecases, I have an XL HJC RPHA 70 ST and it fits. As @OldBikers stated, you have to put the helmet in upside-down to match the shape of the case: I'll put in my 2 cents for top case choice: I have the Givi v56 that I used on my 2015 FJ-09 and then purchased the Shad 58X expandable case when I bought my '21 Tracer 9 GT. The SHAD 58X is one of the best purchases I've made in any hobby. Both hold two full-face helmets but when it comes to convenience and quality the Shad has some features the Givi doesn't: The Shad can be put into what I affectionately call "pancake" mode when its empty; it flattens down to 42L of storage. This is important if you like leaving the case on 24/7 as it is smaller and affects handling less. It has two expansion levels depending on how much you want to carry; fully expanded takes two full face helmets. The SHAD has a flip-out handle for carrying, I've never owned a Givi case that had that feature, and like all SHAD cases you can leave the case unlocked and take the key out; I have no idea why Givi doesn't let you do this. The SHAD 58X is also cheaper, not just the case itself, but the entire all-in cost as with SHAD cases each one includes the mounting plate required. With Givi the plate is a separate purchase. The 58X also comes with drill points marked and molded into the case for the backrest accessory. Givi doesn't, requiring you to print out their guide outline or manually measure the drill points yourself. Good luck.

Funny you should mention that. My portfolio is overwhelmingly boring ETFs, mutual funds, and a few rental properties. The only individual stocks I have are either direct solar panel manufacturers or precious metals companies related to solar panel production. I should've bought nVidia I'm waiting for that solar panel boom any day now 😅.

Is "what battery should I get" going to be the 21st century version of oil threads? 😆 Glad the general consensus for Lithium is positive after reading this thread. Not sure about NOCO as a company, I don't support any corporation that ignore industry standards in favor of their own proprietary connectors in order to nickel and dime us to death on adapters and dongles. I have a NOCO charger I bought on a big sale and needed to buy an SAE adapter because their chargers terminate in their proprietary X-connect; even more irritating their batteries also have nonstandard/non-square terminals. I will begrudgingly admit the quality of the charger is top-notch, and charges multiple types of batteries (AGM, Gel, Lithium) without issue. I also find it humorous that just as Lithium Ion was becoming affordable and available to the masses to compete with AGM/Gel; LiFePO hit the market and made Li-ion dead tech at larger form factors. The speed at which new tech comes out these days is insane.

It's the same engine as the 2021 so I don't see why not. The 2014-2020 models are all the same flash. You could email/call to confirm: Contact me - FLASHED BY VCYCLENUT.

I feel that I owe it to Dave at Vcyclenut to write this review, not just for the excellent product but going above and beyond with service. In short, Dave's ECU flash is amazing. The bike is smoother everywhere and has noticeable power gains when paired with the Akrapovic racing carbon system. Of course having the throttle restrictions removed (mainly 2nd gear) also opens up more riding options as you have roll-on power in every gear. However, I had MPG problems that popped up; alarmingly low MPG after the flash. This led me to believe the flash was bad, or at the very least running rich. I contacted Dave through email and explained the low MPG after the flash. He said I could send the ECU back and he could trim back the fuel where cruising RPMs fell. Before resorting to that, I ran two full tanks through the bike with fuel additive to make sure I didn't have a fueling problem, nope, still bad MPG. Riding buddies also mentioned a strong smell of gasoline when riding behind me. I reported everything I was experiencing to Dave over email, this is where he went above and beyond. We had an 11 email back-and-forth where Dave offered various options to solve the problem, and many detailed explanations on how tuning works and varying possibilities between swapping exhausts, baffles, trimming the fuel at specific revs, etc. However, as I mentioned in another thread I cleaned the TPS after the bike stalled on me twice; this also fixed my MPG issue. I apologized to Dave for pointing my finger at the flash potentially being faulty, and thanked him for providing an amazing product and extraordinary service. You can find praise for Dave's flashes all over the internet, but I'm truly impressed by his service in answering all of my questions; not just with brief responses, but with detailed explanations that often answered why something is the way it is when it comes to the flash and tuning. He's easily reachable by email and phone. Truly reassuring when a service provider actually serves their customers. 100% recommend the flash, without pause.

It is my opinion, but it is also my professional opinion. I work in supply chain ops, specifically in inventory management, planning, and production. An updated part number is not "simply that". I've never worked with or seen an ERP system where a SKU # would change with a vendor switch; vendor/producer is tied to lot code for traceability & compliance. An updated SKU # should only change if a new bill of materials were made to represent materials change to produce a new SKU # with the same previous design, OR - as you pointed out - an actual redesign occurred. SKU # coding would also have some way to represent what change actually occurred. The part for the 2021 model year (B3L-85885-00-00) only existed for 2 years and was only put on 3 motorcycles: 2020-21 R1, 2021 MT09, and 2021 Tracer 9. That seems odd to put research and development into a critical component only to have it exist in such limited capacity and for such a limited run, no? This is the same company that has bolts like 90109-08170-00 that has been in use since 2008 and is still used on today's models. I think I'm missing your point regarding 2023 GT+ sensors working in place of 2021 and 2022 model sensors. The 2022 part is also used on the 2023 and 2024 bikes; across all CP3 models and the R1. The short operational lifespan of part # B3L-85885-00-00, is sus as hell. Why did they spend money on R&D for a new part for 2022-current year if the 2021 part was perfectly fine? Also, unless something has changed greatly in Yamaha part codes recently this isn't actually speculation at all. The # change from 2021 to 2022-onwards is B3L-85885-00-00 to B3L-85885-01-00. The only #s that changed are the design code, there was a correction or modification to the original part design. Yamaha's engineers are smart, they know they goofed and properly redesigned the part to work as originally intended. Question is: will Yamaha corporate admit and own it?

@RaYzerman Did you replace the TPS on your FJR? Is the process complicated? Shop manual for the Tracer 9 mentions "calibration" but is that just position alignment? Everything is working as it should now, so I suppose whenever symptoms come back that's when I'll order the 2022 SKU and slap it on; recall not pending of course.

So I've had Vcyclenut's flash for a bit and everything has been good. Until this past week, when my bike stalled twice after startup, and the lurching/hiccup while cruising came back! This jogged my memory that I had the P2135 code and never actually fixed it myself. So I did some searching but couldn't find anything for the Tracer 9 aside from this thread; however, searching MT09 gets tons of results with other people having throttle position sensor issues where cleaning has done some good, or even replacing and cleaning throttle bodies, but the permanent fix is to replace the TPS (more on that below). For those looking for a quick way for cleaning the TPS you can do it without having to remove the gas tank and airbox. It's on the right side of the bike, behind the triangle engine mount plate. I used two flat head screw drivers, one to push the locking tab in and another to lift the female end off. Then I just sprayed contact cleaner on the connectors inside both ends and let it dry, stalling gone, hesitation gone: What's frustrating about this is that every poster that says they took their CP3 bike into a dealership for this issue has been told by the dealer that Yamaha is aware of this issue. And clearly they are because for model year 2022 and onward the TPS is a different part # than the 2021 models: 2021 is B3L-85885-00-00, 2022-onwards is B3L-85885-01-00. The 2021 version is probably missing a gasket, hood, or cover that protects it from moisture or debris, the same part is used on the 2020 R1 but the fairings probably keep the TPS shielded. So clearly they know it's an issue but there's no recall yet? Apparently you can just plug the 2022+ TPS sensor into a 2021 model and it's fine, but why should I have to drop $75-$100 for a manufacturer defect? I'm hoping a recall comes this season or y'know... the thread title is very applicable.

What I call my "40/40 rule" for me: above 40F, less than 40% chance of rain. Then I got heated gloves, mid 30's and sunny is a joy after being stuck inside for a few weeks. I have a heated jacket liner too, but honestly my 60g Primaloft gold insulated jacket is just as effective as a mid-layer and significantly more comfortable to wear. Exceptions to the rule are snow and slush, that'll put me back in the cage. Winds above 20mph can be exhausting too if I know I'm going to be riding a route without windbreaks.

As stated elsewhere in the thread: the axle keeps the wheel aligned to the axle, that's it. It doesn't guarantee true alignment of the forks to the wheel, or the handlebars to the wheel As you have stated: the forks can still move rotationally as there is enough slop to do so. Issue is that if everything's torqued down it is one body that moves together (you turn your handle bars, which turns your forks, which turns your wheel) that makes up the front-end. Unless you loosen things to move independently of each other they will continue to move as one system. If @Yamajank's handlebars are not aligned with the wheel then either the steering head nut needs to be loosened or the front axle needs to be loosened so the wheel and handlebars can move independently of each other so they can dial them back in. Just loosening pinch bolts for the forks isn't going to let him move his handlebars or wheel independently from the rest of the front end. If you are correct and the triple trees are twisted, the only way they're gonna move back into alignment is if that 110Nm nut pressing them together is loosened. It's highly unlikely the triple tree clamps got twisted when they're held together with the steering neck stem through the frame of the bike and torqued together with the steering head nut (110Nm) on top of 2 steering bearing rings (52Nm and 18Nm). I don't think a tip over has enough force to twist the triple trees, and he'd be seeing other issues first like notchy steering from shot bearings, jittery ride from uneven suspension due to the twist, or at minimum shaking handlebars; but apparently the bike rides fine. @Yamajank are you sure you don't have a bent fork? Or... this may sound dumb, but are you sure the handlebar holders didn't get rotated a bit separate from the rest of the front-end? If the handlebar holders got rotated together to throw off your handlebars there are just nuts on the bottom of the triple tree you can loosen up and move them back in alignment.

The set I bought came with a bottle of the liquid and a spray bottle you can use. When I'm putting a coat on for the winter I cover the tires and brakes with garbage bags and spray big sections. Then I spray some onto a rag to apply in smaller areas or get up and under specific metal bits that the spray didn't hit like back side of foot pegs & subframe. DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR TIRES OR BRAKES. Stuff is super slick even in small residue amounts.

Fluid film is what people put on their plows around here but like you said: thick and sticky, it picks up tons of crud. ACF-50 was formulated for the aviation industry and I find that it's the superior product for bikes too. Easy to apply in various ways, thin so it gets into crevices, not too sticky so it doesn't pick up crud as you ride, and fairly easy to wash off in the summer if that's your thing.

Slap some ACF-50 on the bike and get out there! You're right though, I can't believe how much salt brine is still left in some of the counties I've ridden through these past few weeks.

+1 for the HJC RPHA 70 ST here too, 4-years with it this coming April. I also agree (in my experience) that after a certain price point you're paying for luxury, comfort, and optical technology; rather than a more safe helmet. You either meet SNELL/ECE for the track, or you don't. Apparently the successor is the RPHA 71, and it seems like a downgrade by many reviews? I hate the proprietary comms cutout many vendors are doing now, and in the case of the RPHA 71 the extra cutout is another hole that lets in wind noise through, on top of being less friendly to 3rd party communication sets. LS2's new line of helmets look fantastic and the prices are right. Challenger GT looks competitive to the RPHA ST line. The Citation II is super light and under $300; pinlock insert included. Also, for those of you in the USA: like most motorcycle accessories I've found it's much cheaper to by from an EU vendor and just wait the week for it to ship to the USA. Just a quick search shows USA vendor TheVisorshop.com has it priced at $821.80 which matches @dazzler24's conversion from AUD in his picture above. Motostorm.it saves almost $200 if you don't mind waiting on the shipping:

This is basic physics: you applied a force greater than the tension of the system holding your front end in alignment, so it became unaligned. Now, unless you can somehow recreate that force in direct opposition we are suggesting you to relieve the tension by loosening the parts holding your front end in alignment so that you can use a smaller force (less effort) to correct the issue. Your axle holds the forks to the wheel, you need to loosen it so you can realign everything, then tighten it back up. Honestly you should loosen everything down there that connects the forks to the wheels like fender and caliper bolts.

Just growing pains within the fan-base. It took years of cars putting up faster lap and strip times for people to finally accept DCTs. The computer is always going to shift perfectly; and if you want or need to manage the RPMs there's nothing wrong with paddle shifters (or buttons/triggers on a motorcycle). If someone entered a partnership and put VW DCTs in a motorcycle I'd put a deposit down immediately; I'm actually a bit surprised Harley Davidson hasn't tried to rekindle their relationship with Porsche and make a DCT for their bikes. Anecdotally, my step-father is finding it harder to operate the heavy clutch on his 1998 Heritage Softail Classic as he gets older, and that is another drop in the bucket in considering giving up riding.

You replaced the fuel pump and injectors rather than just reinstall the OEM gas cap designed for the bike? I bet your keyless fuel cap is messing with the tank pressure, since the problem started the day you installed it: Come on now 🙄 Put the OEM cap back on. If the problem still persists you have blockage in the vent lines or the fuel lines.

I disagree that it would improve visibility. I'd argue the opposite in fact: they're high-up vertically and are designed to illuminate outwards on both sides of the bike; they don't illuminate the road in front of you and you'd just blind oncoming drivers if they were always on. For reference, in the service manual the cornering light is the beam circled here: Point f is your center reference point/line. Line e is your low beam, line g is the inner line you line up your cornering beam to according to the manual. Hopefully you see how having your cornering lights on all the time would be a serious problem. However, adjustment is vertical; maybe you could bring the cornering light down closer to line f and possibly not blind everyone, but I haven't actually tried myself to find the maximum adjustment on the cornering lights. If you find the factory single bulb lacking (which I did) adjust the beam upwards using the adjuster. I believe I have mine up 4-turns from how it came from the dealer and it's a significant improvement without blinding oncoming traffic. If you're absolutely dead set on trying to always have your cornering lights on. It looks like you could just disconnect Cornering Light Control Unit (CLCU) coupler, find the power/main line and splice that into the Headlight Assembly Coupler's main line.

Let's assume your bike started with 3.4 quarts; if you drained all of it and replace the filter you are at zero. You replenished with 3 quarts, then removed .25qt. You're not "missing" .65qt; quarts because you never put in that much. You only put in 3 quarts out of 3.4qt total capacity, then drained it to 2.75 out of 3.40qts BUT! You say that your sight glass was overfilled with the 3qts you put in. That would indicate you never went down to zero from the first drain: there was still oil left in your oil pan, engine internals, crevices, etc. There's lot of places for oil to stick and hide; all of that settles back down over time. If you're not going to let it drain overnight, and tip the bike every-which-way to get every last drop out don't assume you're back down to zero, that's where your .65qts went. Going by the sight glass is the right thing to do, otherwise you're just overthinking it 😎

You're not crazy, I've posted on here before the CP3 engine seems to shift better and runs smoother on semi-synthetic oil according to my hands and butt. My dealership mechanic also swears by it; when the dealership employee is telling you to buy cheaper semi-synthetic oil from Amazon rather than the full synthetic marked up on their shelf it's something to consider.

Fairly certain any reputable tuner is going to remove all throttle restrictions. Vcyclenut mentions specifically removing the restrictions on gears 1-3 and leaving gear 4 stock: There are also images of the throttle tables if you're interested in looking at those.

"Display name" login broke at some point; use your email address instead and it should work as expected.

The only explanation for this that I could possibly think of: back when Gore-Tex's original patent for ePTFE was still active, that patent prevented other manufacturers from creating their own waterproof ePTFE membrane unless they bought Gore-Tex equipment & materials, paid for the license, and put a Gore-Tex label on the final product. Waterproof gear at the time that wasn't made from ePTFE would have relied on DWR (Durable Water Repellent, like Nikwax) coating that wears off over time. It's possible the heat from motorcycle grips accelerated this wear, that's really the only feasible way you'd lose waterproofing due to heat. Gore-Tex's patent expired in 1998, and today all waterproof motorcycle gear is waterproofed with an ePTFE membrane manufactured in-house or by a third party, there will be no issues with heated grips. Not sure what brands you're buying but any of the big 3 EU brands have solid in-house membranes that haven't failed on me yet over 5+ years since owning: Rev'it, Dainese, and Alpinestars. I also have some gear in other brands that use Hipora as the membrane and that has held up. For bulky heated gloves/winter gloves there are pairs that don't have insulation in the palm and underside of the fingers so the dexterity is still there and you actually feel your heated grips better; maybe that is worth looking into?